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How do you take the intake plenum off?


Nas Escobar

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Before I get screamed at for not "searching", I looked all over the forum and I used advance search... Haven't run into anything.

 

With that said, I want to change my spark plugs, but I don't want to deal with extensions and swivels to take off the rear spark plugs. I rather take the easy way out and take off the plenum then have a socket and a ratchet and maybe an extension to do this job.

 

So how exactly can I take off the plenum? I can see some of the bolts that go on top, but what else holds it in, and what connections need to come off it?

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You didn't sat what engine you have, but I suspect that taking the plenum off to get to the plugs is probably the hard way. Plus you'll probably need to replace the plenum gasket if you go that route. I don't have a lot of experience with it but rotating the engine (mine was 3100) wasn't all that big of a deal. Take off the front engine mounts and tip the engine forward. I stuffed a 2x4 between the alternator and the firewall to keep it tipped. it's still a bit of a squeeze but that's probably the easiest thing to do....

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The "easy" way is taking the plenum off...? Alright then.

 

I hate dealing with the swivel sockets. They never allow me to be able to put force on anything that's bolted in. LOL

 

OR could I tilt the engine forward by taking off the front motor mount? I mean I rather have room than use half a toolset on getting sparks out.

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its really not hard at all, if its a cutty supr. vert take the strut tower brace off, then get (3) 3" extensions, (1) swivel, (1) spark plug socket and put it together in this fashion - Spark plug socket - (2) 3" extension together - swivel - another 3" extension - then your 3/8" ratchet.

 

I absolutely HATED swivels, but they do wonders with these machines, trust me on this. They can also take quite a bit of force without breaking.

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Who ever did the spark plugs before me notched out the metal under the weather stripping Not a lot, but engough to make a difference. I was pleasntly surprised when I removed that peice of rubber.

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If its a Cutlass this engine is in, you can just use extensions to get to the rear plugs. I did without rotating the engine, just make sure your extensions connect solidly together, and you have a good plug socket.

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My bad, it's the 3.4 DOHC engine. LQ1.

WHAT YEAR???

 

Why wouldn't you put the vehicle, engine, and model year in the FIRST post? Are we supposed to be mind-readers?

 

If this is a '94 or older, I GUARANTEE that you don't need to remove the plenum/upper intake manifold section.

 

It does help to grind notches in the sheetmetal that supports the rubber weatherstrip, but even that isn't critical--just nice.

 

The engine doesn't pull forward very much, it will rotate some, Long extension, spark plug socket, turn with ratchet...done.

 

No promises on later vehicles. Never done one of them.

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^^^^

1994 Cutlass Vert. My bad about the year thing, I assumed all LQ1's had this issue with the spark plugs being hidden by the plenum.

 

its really not hard at all, if its a cutty supr. vert take the strut tower brace off, then get (3) 3" extensions, (1) swivel, (1) spark plug socket and put it together in this fashion - Spark plug socket - (2) 3" extension together - swivel - another 3" extension - then your 3/8" ratchet.

 

I absolutely HATED swivels, but they do wonders with these machines, trust me on this. They can also take quite a bit of force without breaking.

 

 

I see... Well I'm going to take a better look at it today, see how bad is this situation. I might try this if I feel adventurous, with nothing better to do. I absolutely hate swivels. I never felt they helped me in anything other than stripping bolts.

Edited by Nas Escobar
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I see... Well I'm going to take a better look at it today, see how bad is this situation. I might try this if I feel adventurous, with nothing better to do.

Really, it's NOT THAT BAD of a job to do. Pull off the rubber weatherstrip, grind some notches. Undo the dogbone, roll the engine forward a little. L-O-N-G extension and a spark plug socket. Nothing to it. Rolling the engine is the worst part.

 

 

 

I absolutely hate swivels. I never felt they helped me in anything other than stripping bolts.

You need a better class of swivel/U-joint. The impact-style doesn't bind up like the typical double-pivot deal, but they're bulkier and may not have as many degrees of angle. Most of the time, they're wonderful.

 

Also helps to wrap the double-pivot style with a few rounds of electrical tape. Tape keeps the thing mostly straight so it doesn't flop around like a wounded guppy. Helps prevent leaning the thing over so far it binds-up, too.

 

spin_prod_762427412?hei=315&wid=315&op_sharpen=1&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

Junk

 

 

009_23765_CRFT?hei=315&wid=315&op_sharpen=1&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

00923765000-1?hei=315&wid=315&op_sharpen=1&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-swivel-universal-joint-socket-adapter-1-2/p-00923765000P

Probably OK. Looks good, never used one.

 

 

 

VUP2BA.jpg

Pivots on a ball and pin mechanism. This photo is from MAC, but plenty of companies make something similar. Snap-On puts a sheetmetal shield around the pin so it cannot back out. Nice touch--and what I have. Snap-On website is down, I can't grab a photo.

Edited by Schurkey
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Idk why people think the rear plugs on the Dohc are so bad. IMO they are much easier than any 3x00 engine. just remove the weatherstrip get a swivel and extension and your done. I didn't even have to rock the engine forward. And trust me when I say it's easy I hate working on cars and am extremely lazy

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Really, it's NOT THAT BAD of a job to do. Pull off the rubber weatherstrip, grind some notches. Undo the dogbone, roll the engine forward a little. L-O-N-G extension and a spark plug socket. Nothing to it. Rolling the engine is the worst part.

 

So after assessing the engine bay, I realized how tight of a space there is between the back of the engine and the firewall. I'll try undoing the dogbone and rocking the engine forward.

 

Is there any other motor mounts i need to loosen up?

 

Also, what's the torque spec on the dogbone?

 

 

You need a better class of swivel/U-joint. The impact-style doesn't bind up like the typical double-pivot deal, but they're bulkier and may not have as many degrees of angle. Most of the time, they're wonderful.

 

Also helps to wrap the double-pivot style with a few rounds of electrical tape. Tape keeps the thing mostly straight so it doesn't flop around like a wounded guppy. Helps prevent leaning the thing over so far it binds-up, too.

 

spin_prod_762427412?hei=315&wid=315&op_sharpen=1&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

Junk

 

 

009_23765_CRFT?hei=315&wid=315&op_sharpen=1&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

00923765000-1?hei=315&wid=315&op_sharpen=1&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-swivel-universal-joint-socket-adapter-1-2/p-00923765000P

Probably OK. Looks good, never used one.

 

 

 

VUP2BA.jpg

Pivots on a ball and pin mechanism. This photo is from MAC, but plenty of companies make something similar. Snap-On puts a sheetmetal shield around the pin so it cannot back out. Nice touch--and what I have. Snap-On website is down, I can't grab a photo.

 

I've seen those before, but never really had a use for them since I go great lengths to avoid them.

 

I'll check them out later on if I actually need them for the spark plug job. I already got the AC Delcos I'll be using so now it's just a matter of waiting for a good day to work outside.

 

Idk why people think the rear plugs on the Dohc are so bad. IMO they are much easier than any 3x00 engine. just remove the weatherstrip get a swivel and extension and your done. I didn't even have to rock the engine forward. And trust me when I say it's easy I hate working on cars and am extremely lazy

 

I don't think the job is bad. I just have about 3 inches or so in between my firewall and engine. I can't even go around feeling for the spark plug wire. IDK how different the Grand Prix is from the Vert, but the Cutty Vert is pretty tight in there for some weird reason.

 

I just want my hand to fit in there so I can pull on the wires without messing up them up.

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