Jprice90 Posted February 6, 2013 Report Posted February 6, 2013 If I were to purchase oxygen sensors, can I buy 2 of the same? like are they interchangeable? Quote
19Cutlass94 Posted February 6, 2013 Report Posted February 6, 2013 I hope I can answer this, the O2 sensors are interchangeable, but it depends what car your using them for, and if they are upstream or downstream sensors. Also if they are heated or not ( I think all of the ones for our cars area heated though ) and what connector they have, unless you feel like splicing connectors. Quote
RobertISaar Posted February 7, 2013 Report Posted February 7, 2013 quick rundown: MPFI cars didn't use heated sensors, the 3100 and 94-up LQ1 did. no idea about 3800s. of the cars with heated sensors, they changed the connector in ~97 i think, instead of having 4 pins in a row, it's 4 pins in a box. Quote
Jprice90 Posted February 7, 2013 Author Report Posted February 7, 2013 Yeah I have a 95, with an L82, so non-heated? and 1 upstream, and 1 downstream? Quote
Schurkey Posted February 7, 2013 Report Posted February 7, 2013 Yep, that's what I love about my '92 and '93 Lumina, and '88 K1500. A single one-wire O2 sensor, about $14. Quote
white4d96 Posted February 7, 2013 Report Posted February 7, 2013 Yep, that's what I love about my '92 and '93 Lumina, and '88 K1500. A single one-wire O2 sensor, about $14. For the sake of comparison, the downstream heated one for my Teg was $90 from RockAuto! Quote
Jprice90 Posted February 7, 2013 Author Report Posted February 7, 2013 oh shoot, so theres just 1? I kept thinking there were 2 lol Quote
Galaxie500XL Posted February 8, 2013 Report Posted February 8, 2013 Well, '96 and up does use 2. With the implementation of OBDII, a downstream O2 sensor was placed behind the catalytic converter, to monitor converter function. Quote
RobertISaar Posted February 8, 2013 Report Posted February 8, 2013 some 94 and up applications also got downstream sensors(i can think of a couple of 3800 cars at least), but the LQ1/L82 definitely did not until OBD2. Quote
Jprice90 Posted February 8, 2013 Author Report Posted February 8, 2013 awesome! thanks guy, appreciate it Quote
Jprice90 Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Posted March 30, 2013 Whats needed to get the old oxygen sensor out? It just doesnt seem like enough room to get a wrench in there, do I need a special socket? Quote
rich_e777 Posted March 30, 2013 Report Posted March 30, 2013 In my `94 3100 you`ve got to rock the engine forward and get the heat shield off so the special socket(has a groove cut into the side to allow for the wires) can get around the O2 sensor. The hole cut into the shield is too small to get the socket where you need it. Also i`d soak that shit in WD-40 or favorite penetrating oil(PB blaster is another good one) and maybe start the engine for a few minutes to let the heat expand the metal. and i believe you have to use anti-seize heat resitant grease on the threads of the new sensor. Quote
Jprice90 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Posted March 31, 2013 In my `94 3100 you`ve got to rock the engine forward and get the heat shield off so the special socket(has a groove cut into the side to allow for the wires) can get around the O2 sensor. The hole cut into the shield is too small to get the socket where you need it. Also i`d soak that shit in WD-40 or favorite penetrating oil(PB blaster is another good one) and maybe start the engine for a few minutes to let the heat expand the metal. and i believe you have to use anti-seize heat resitant grease on the threads of the new sensor. I can get the socket through the heat shield, there's just no room for a rachet on the socket, so I might try a 1 inch wrench, I was afraid to spray PB on it because it's highly flammable Quote
Schurkey Posted March 31, 2013 Report Posted March 31, 2013 I can get the socket through the heat shield, there's just no room for a rachet on the socket, so I might try a 1 inch wrench, I was afraid to spray PB on it because it's highly flammable Penetrating oil is worthless because it's sealed OUT of the threads. Flammable? That's funny. Where's the source of ignition? Quote
ManicMechanic Posted March 31, 2013 Report Posted March 31, 2013 Penetrating oil is worthless because it's sealed OUT of the threads. Flammable? That's funny. Where's the source of ignition? Exhaust heat can ignite dry grass (ask me how I know) so it's very plausible that it can ignite PB Blaster. o2 sensors are 7/8" not 1" I have an awesome double jointed ratchet used for front end work that is 7/8s drive that I have used for o2 sensors. But finding a Snap On ratchet like that $1 at a garage sale again isn't going to happen often. Quote
Schurkey Posted March 31, 2013 Report Posted March 31, 2013 (edited) Exhaust heat can ignite dry grass (ask me how I know) so it's very plausible that it can ignite PB Blaster. Who do you know that tries to work on the exhaust manifold/O2 sensor with the manifold SCREAMING HOT? Mighty hard on the threads, not to mention your hands and arms. "I" would demand that the engine cool off awhile, if the manifold was more than "warm" I'd refuse to work on it. Put the engine back in service, and the rise in temperature of the manifold evaporates the penetrant, instead of igniting it. The reason to NOT use penetrating oil is that it won't help, not that it's flammable. Edited March 31, 2013 by Schurkey Quote
Jprice90 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Posted March 31, 2013 Exhaust heat can ignite dry grass (ask me how I know) so it's very plausible that it can ignite PB Blaster. o2 sensors are 7/8" not 1" I have an awesome double jointed ratchet used for front end work that is 7/8s drive that I have used for o2 sensors. But finding a Snap On ratchet like that $1 at a garage sale again isn't going to happen often. I know the O2 is 7/8, but I got a O2 socket in there that I need a 1 inch to be able to turn it. Im gonna have to stop at my friends and pick one up, I had one but I have no idea what happened to it lol Quote
ManicMechanic Posted March 31, 2013 Report Posted March 31, 2013 Who do you know that tries to work on the exhaust manifold/O2 sensor with the manifold SCREAMING HOT? Mighty hard on the threads, not to mention your hands and arms. "I" would demand that the engine cool off awhile, if the manifold was more than "warm" I'd refuse to work on it. Put the engine back in service, and the rise in temperature of the manifold evaporates the penetrant, instead of igniting it. The reason to NOT use penetrating oil is that it won't help, not that it's flammable. Quote
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