Help With Wheel Bearing Replacement

[AutoRepairNewb]

Hello All,

 

I have a '98 Chevy Lumina, and was told that I needed to have my front wheel bearing replaced. Can someone please provide me with a link(s) that shows how to remove and replace the front wheel bearings on this car?

 

Thanks in advance!!

[GOT2B GM]

Loosen the CV shaft hub nut with the weight of the car on the ground.

 

Raise the car, support with a jackstand and remove the wheel.

 

Using a T-60 torx bit, remove the two caliper bracket bolts, and move the caliper and bracket off to the side, supporting it so there's no stress on the brake hose.

 

Remove the rotor.

 

Remove 4 bolts from the back side of the bearing assembly. You may have to turn the steering wheel a bit to gain clearance for your socket and extension around the CV shaft, control arm and tie rod.

 

Remove CV shaft hub nut.

 

Remove bearing.

 

Reverse instructions for reinstallation.

 

Ensure ABS sensor is properly seated in the two locating holes when reinstalling the new bearing.

 

Ensure you reinstall the washer found behind the CV shaft nut.

[Galaxie500XL]

Just curious...I've never replaced a front wheel bearing on my Cutlass, but have once before on my A-body Century...the procedure you describes sounds the same...if so, it doesn't sound like a bad job...and one it appears I'll also be doing so soon.

[GOT2B GM]

Its not a bad job

[RobertISaar]

i helped my dad with a 95ish cutlass ciera on one... it is pretty straightforward. rears are even easier.

[Cutlass350]

It's not horrible. But, depending on the age of the car, where/when it's driven, etc, there are some things to be careful about.

 

1) You need the right socket for the hub nut. Get that at Autozone. You need a heavy duty socket. Even if you did have one that fits (unlikely), get a socket made for hub nuts. Those sockets have less flex. If you strip the bolt, you're super screwed. So, spend the ~$10.

 

2) It's ??~170 FT Lbs?? of torque on the hub nut. That means using a good 1/2 racket and a pipe. Many of the cheap breaker bars will do just that - BREAK!

 

3) If there's rust on the hub nut (guaranteed if in a snow state), do the smart thing first, get MAPP (like propane but hotter), and heat the ****** out of the nut. And, I do mean the heat ****** out if the nut. Have your ratchet, extension, socket, and pipe ready to use. The nut often comes off with out a lot of problems doing it that way.

 

4) A torque wrench is a good idea to put the nut back on. Again, it goes on with a lot of torque. Many torque wrenches may not go up that high. Not that big of a deal. Max out the torque wrench, then snug it a little more with the pipe and ratchet. Or, make sure you put the hub nut on with a good deal of force. FWIW, I actually slightly lifted the front of my Achieva (an N-body) when I did that car. On my heavy Intrigue (W body), it's heavy enough so that it barely moved.

 

5) You may need to use some heat on the bolts that attach the hub. I often do. Be careful of the ABS and wires! I often remove the ABS stuff/wires first. On my Intrigue, the ABS is internal to the Hub - just a wire coming out. On my Achieva, there's an external ABS sensor.

 

Good Luck!

[Cutlass350]

Some old pictures of a spindle R&R that I did on my '94 Achieva. But shows other relevant stuff.

Remember those old "VGA" cameras.

 

http://www.veryuseful.com/GM/tmp-bearing/index.html

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 1, 2013 by Cutlass350

[Cutlass350]

Oh yea, as shown above, you can often use a screwdriver, punch, etc in the rotor and put it against the caliper to keep the rotor from turning.

[19Cutlass94]

Y'all actually torque the axle nut? I just take an electric impact and when that stops moving, I call it good enough.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone in some random spot of Texas.

[GOT2B GM]

Y'all actually torque the axle nut? I just take an electric impact and when that stops moving, I call it good enough.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone in some random spot of Texas.

 

That's what I do.

[intern8tion9l]

I've had to cut the axle nut off before. I can now change a front bearing on my car in under 30 mins, been done way too much

[Cutlass350]

If the nut isn't on tight enough, it can come loose, and/or there can be too much play/movement in the bearing.

 

At the very least, get a pipe and torque the hub nut on! Heck, even a pipe from a jack gives more leverage. Or, spend a massive ~$5 and get an iron pipe from Home Depot.

 

Actually, very few electric impact wrenches can torque the nut enough.

IMHO, anything other than a Milwaukee 9072-20 Electric Impact Wrench, won't come close. That includes the Dewalt!

I love my Dewalt 18v cordless tools (have most of them ), and my other Dewalt tools. But, IMHO, the Dewalt electric impact wrench falls far short of the Milwaukee 9072-20.

 

Milwaukee 9072-20, IMHO, the best electric impact wrench out there. I should know, I think I bought one of everything else first.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-9072-20-2-Inch-Impact-Wrench/dp/B0000647GA/

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200195874_200195874

 

Note there is also a Milwaukee 9071-20 model. Same torque as above, but not a variable speed.

Cheaper version:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200195824_200195824

Edited February 1, 2013 by Cutlass350

[AutoRepairNewb]

You guys are awesome! Thanks to everyone for the advice on doing this job. Cutlass350, thanks for the pics and the links. I'm, sure this will help a newb like me complete my 1st wheel bearing replacement!

[GOT2B GM]

for the record the CV axle nut torque spec is 159 ft / lbs for any 1 / 1.5 gen W-body.

[GOT2B GM]

I have one of these, works great.

 

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/fastening-impact-wrenches-dw292.aspx

[Galaxie500XL]

If you have an Autozone store near you, you can "borrow" the large socket for the axle nut for free. You pay them a deposit, and get the deposit back when you return the tool.

[GnatGoSplat]

I always torque it, my electric impact couldn't get the nut on tight enough and I just feel better knowing everything is to spec.

I also find it a lot easier to bust the nut loose with the wheel still on it and car on the ground. I just pull the center cap off the wheel. I think maybe the center bore hole in the factory wheels was too small, but I have aftermarket on mine and the hole is definitely big enough.

[rich17]

If the nut isn't on tight enough, it can come loose, and/or there can be too much play/movement in the bearing.

 

 

This! I forgot to torque one of mine down and it went bad within a week. Luckily Napa warrantied it

[GOT2B GM]

Just made this write-up today.

 

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/76455-1st-Gen-amp-1-5-Gen-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Replacement