97oldscutlas Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 Hi guys, coolent started running low, pressure tested system coolent sys, its running out the intake manifold gasket and the crankcase oil is about a quart too full. the oil doesn't look very milky yet, still pretty clear like oil, but no doubt some is getting in the crankcase. I think i just caught this before it could milk and sludge everything up. I've rebuilt a few engines, had some automotive mechanic schooling, and done a decent amount of work on cars through the years. I'm not concered with my ability to complete the repairs, but experience on what your working on is the best teacher and I want to draw off your experience. Is there anything in particular that i need to look our for when getting the top parts out of the way, pulling the manifold, replacing gasket, and reassembling? Is there a good place to reference the FSM online or anyone know where one might be accessed for free? Do you guys think the direction in Chilton's or Hanye's is sufficient? its got 145K miles. Do you think it would be worth the trouble to replace the head gaskets while i'm there? I can't think of anything in particular other than using some RTV on the corners... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 Chilton is probably a good source, forget about the Haynes manual, they're not worth the paper they're printed on. 60degreev6.com has the updated procedure uploaded, i just don't know where at the moment. head gaskets.... maybe, i guess it depends on how lucky you feel and how it has been treated thus far. for the intake gasket, make absolutely certain that you get the set that has a metal backing and has little black rubber inserts for the intake ports. should be the Fel-Pro Permadry Plus. most if not all other sets are still the plastic style and WILL leak again. torqueing the upper and lower intake bolts can be tricky since they do require careful attention so that you don't strip the threads or for the upper intake, crack off an "ear" when bolting to the lower intake. thread locker helps a lot with the relatively low torque that is called for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_mezz Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Did it have Dex in it? Maybe you didn't get sludged because it didn't? Replace the plugs while you're in there, I didn't and am kicking myself. And make sure you get this little bugger unbolted and out of the way. I was ready to put everything back together, the LIM seemed to be sitting flush but the bolts wouldn't line up because this was pushing on it. There's an on-line manual in the FAQ section but the link doesn't seem to be working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97oldscutlas Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Thanks for the heads-up and reference info, j-mezz! Yeah, the engine bay says use dex only. so, it had it in there to begin with. I had to replace the radiator earlier and flushed and refilled with extended life.. I prob will replace the plugs, even though i replaced them earlier.. definitely a pain in the rear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_mezz Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Ahh, maybe your dex wasn't as old as mine, I had a big mess! I was working from the manual and this writeup...has the updated torq specs in there too... http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74080 oh, and if I had it to do over again I would replace the bolts, they're cheap enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97oldscutlas Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 i think this is the link for the procedure you were referring to for the Lower Intake Manifold - Revised Tightening Procedure http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/24993-Printable-TSBs-for-the-3100-Engine?highlight=3.1+intake+manifold+procedure Printable TSBs for the 3100 Engine Piston Pin Removal/Installation Revision Gasket Surfaces - Use of Surface Conditioning Discs Oil Odors Tick or Rattle After Start-Up Surface Conditioning Discs Precautions Ignition - Engine Miss, Updated Spark Plug Wires Lower Intake Manifold - Revised Tightening Procedure Timing Chain and Sprocket - Revised Installation Pushrod Identification Revised Engine Rocker Cover - Oil Leak Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner - Knocking Noise Diagnosing Intermittent Idle Speed Increases Engine Vacuum Testing Lower Intake Manifold - Revised Tightening Procedure (2004 Update!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhildebrand Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 I replaced mine 3 years and 48,000 miles ago and went all the way down to the heads. Fel-Pro Permadry Plus gaskets, no leaks yet. I used a Haynes manual, and that is all I have ever used on all of my vehicles. Sure, they're not as detailed as a dealer or Chilton manual, but for the majority of things, they will do fine. I got the new head bolt set from NAPA when I did mine, and it did not come with the front left bolt(the one with the stud sticking up on it), so don't through your old bolts out until you get the new set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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