tar6569 Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 Just had the intake gaskets done on my car. What are the steps to bleed the system using the 2 bleeder screws? The service manual doesn't specifically mention how to do it? I've been riding around for a few days and can tell the coolant isn't getting into the top of the system yet (no heat in dash vents and the engine is not reaching operating temp). Since it's ok to drive this way, I figure I'll take a look on Wed. when high will be near 40 instead of in the teens! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 (edited) Just had the intake gaskets done on my car. What are the steps to bleed the system using the 2 bleeder screws? The service manual doesn't specifically mention how to do it? I've been riding around for a few days and can tell the coolant isn't getting into the top of the system yet (no heat in dash vents and the engine is not reaching operating temp). Since it's ok to drive this way, I figure I'll take a look on Wed. when high will be near 40 instead of in the teens! Where do you get the idea that it's OK to drive the car with an enormous air pocket in the cooling system? The only reason the gauge doesn't show proper temperature is because it's not touching the coolant. If the same happens to the thermostat, you could have massive engine overheating and no indication of it until the engine starts burning oil, or seizes. Don't know about a '95, but a '93 has two bleeder screws, both in the area of the thermostat housing. Fill radiator, fill overflow tank to "full cold" mark. Reinstall rad cap. Start engine. Open bleeder screw(s) until air is mostly evacuated. Some coolant will spit out. Close screws for fifteen seconds or so, then re-open. Ideally, you'll quickly end up with a solid stream of clean liquid coolant from each bleeder screw, and less than a cup of coolant on the floor or on your clothing. Top off overflow bottle (and radiator as needed). DO NOT OPEN THE BLEEDER SCREWS WHEN THE RAD CAP IS REMOVED. May take far more than a cup (the spilled coolant) because the trapped air was displacing plenty of coolant to begin with. This does not take long enough for the engine to get warm. Done properly, the upper radiator hose will not pressurize. Edited January 9, 2013 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 i'm not sure if it's a year/engine dependant thing, but the 91 SE has a bleeder on the heater core loop as well, definitely another area you don't want air pockets in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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