Chris2012 Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 2nd battery in 3 months (Everstart). When I leave the door open, not even for that long, I need to charge/jump it. Put the new battery in, while idling it read 14.87 volts! Is that high? Could my alternator be overcharging? Usually it's not dead in the morning, but this was the 2nd time in about 3 weeks where it was, so I put another 70$ wonder in. You know what would be nice - if someone were to describe the actual _wiring_ in this car. I can't read those diagrams in the Haynes manual. You have a finite number of *points*, and wires going between them. I guess to ensure the max life on these crap batteries, you shouldn't ever play the radio w/the engine not running, nor leave the key turned back all night. I may have a parasitic drain somewhere, but for some reason diagnosing that right now is *hard*. Don't know why. I've overcome other obstacles lately, sometimes you just have to jump in and it all doesn't seem so bad. But the wring *diagram* would be a big help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 It is charging very good at 14.87. that number will be higher than 14 usually when the battery is low. the reason is the alt puts out a higher load, the lower the battery charge is. parasitic drain is a possibility. was an aftermarket alarm ever installed on the car? most likely the alt can't get the battery charged all the way because the engine ground strap is preventing it from getting the power all the way there. do you know where it is located? I would look for a severe duty battery somewhere other than walmart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 2nd battery in 3 months (Everstart). When I leave the door open, not even for that long, I need to charge/jump it. Put the new battery in, while idling it read 14.87 volts! Is that high? Could my alternator be overcharging? Usually it's not dead in the morning, but this was the 2nd time in about 3 weeks where it was, so I put another 70$ wonder in. You know what would be nice - if someone were to describe the actual _wiring_ in this car. I can't read those diagrams in the Haynes manual. You have a finite number of *points*, and wires going between them. I guess to ensure the max life on these crap batteries, you shouldn't ever play the radio w/the engine not running, nor leave the key turned back all night. I may have a parasitic drain somewhere, but for some reason diagnosing that right now is *hard*. Don't know why. I've overcome other obstacles lately, sometimes you just have to jump in and it all doesn't seem so bad. But the wring *diagram* would be a big help. Chuck that piece-of-crap Haynes manual in the paper recycling bin. Buy a "real" service manual set for your vehicle. Plenty of service manuals for sale on eBay. 14.87 volts--IF (big IF) your voltmeter is accurate--is on the high side, but not so high that it should cause immediate problems. During the mechanical relay-points era of voltage regulation, 13.5 to 15.5 was reasonably common, with the voltage biased towards the higher end during winter. "I" would start by having the battery FULLY CHARGED and load-tested using a carbon pile style tester. The new testers-- "electronic style"-- that equate CCA to impedance or capacitance or whatever are supposed to be The Best Ever. (I don't trust them...yet.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris2012 Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 It is charging very good at 14.87. that number will be higher than 14 usually when the battery is low. the reason is the alt puts out a higher load, the lower the battery charge is. yeah, great. And afterwards it would read a bit above 14, so I guess everything is normal there. parasitic drain is a possibility. was an aftermarket alarm ever installed on the car? Nothing to my knowledge. A bit more on the drainage part shortly... most likely the alt can't get the battery charged all the way because the engine ground strap is preventing it from getting the power all the way there. do you know where it is located? the negative terminal is grounded just to the left of the battery (standing on the side of the car that is). If that's what you mean by ground strap, I would imagine so. Everything seems fine there. I would look for a severe duty battery somewhere other than walmart. Yeah bucks are in short supply though. In the future I will avoid them though. But this is what I'd like to ask - it's been kind of cold. Do small drains on the battery, as in leaving your key in the on position nightly, all night, serve to *ruin* a battery? I don't see evidence of a drain. When I open the driver's door, the voltage will go down from say 12.75 to 12.6. Then when I shut it, the instrument panel light comes on, and it drops say another .1 volts or thereabouts. After that goes out, it climbs back up. The more you open the door though, it seems the battery is less likely to climb back up to say the original 12.75 - 12.85 volts (which leads into my question above). But it does climb back up - which, correct me if I'm wrong, indicates there isn't any drain while the car is off. Is the 3 month old battery a candidate for refund? I'm thinking so more and more. I don't see how I've done anything to kill a battery in that time. The previous one lasted 2.5 years, then started giving me problems (when I'd leave the door open for maybe a couple hours or more) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris2012 Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 Chuck that piece-of-crap Haynes manual in the paper recycling bin. Buy a "real" service manual set for your vehicle. Plenty of service manuals for sale on eBay. If you mean the Orignal GM manuals, I did buy one years ago when my Baretta was new, along w/the Haynes manual. The GM docs never got used, payed 35$ for it (in 1989), was made of that rice paper like a bible LOL, and eventually got tossed due to tattering (from just being jostled around). Some of these things are useful for real-live mechanics (which I most definitely ain't, you seem to be). Others like me benefit from the simplistic step 1 step 2 step 3 in the Haynes. I did manage to change the timing belt and water pump in my '90 Chrysler w/it's help, and that in my humble opinion is definitely not a simple job for the average monkey, as in me, and it was the first time I ever unbolted an engine (on one side). All that crap is scary the first time out, but I was absolutely freaking elated that everything went according to script. Did it a second time a couple years later (WHEN I DIDN'T EVEN NEED TO). If you do mean something then the original GM service docs, which leave volumes to the imagination, I'd like to know. Who uses the carbon pile testers? Please don't tell me Auto Zone, I avoid them whenever possible. I have an old Schumaker battery charger, which I have set on "manual". How long does fully charge take? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris2012 Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 Harbor Fright carbon pile testers are cheap. Are they worthwhile? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris2012 Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 ok here's another question. Do batteries become less then reliable (but aren't "ruined") due to driving short distances, as opposed to longer hauls? How long does it take, in driving time, say at 40-50 mph on a strait away to fully recharge a battery that is near the point where it won't start the engine? How long charging w/a charger (I think I already asked that above)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 ok here's another question. Do batteries become less then reliable (but aren't "ruined") due to driving short distances, as opposed to longer hauls? How long does it take, in driving time, say at 40-50 mph on a strait away to fully recharge a battery that is near the point where it won't start the engine? How long charging w/a charger (I think I already asked that above)? An automotive alternator is intended to maintain an otherwise-charged battery. It will replace the charge taken by the starter motor, and supply enough additional to run the radio, lights, wipers, ignition, etc. If the battery is so run-down that it's having trouble starting the engine, you need a battery charger NOT the alternator on the car to fix the discharged battery. A low-amperage (1 to 3 amp, lower is better) "trickle charger" left on the battery for a day or two as needed is about the best way to charge them. I have "recovered" batteries that a fast-charger would not re-charge by using the low and slow method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris2012 Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 A low-amperage (1 to 3 amp, lower is better) "trickle charger" left on the battery for a day or two as needed is about the best way to charge them. I have "recovered" batteries that a fast-charger would not re-charge by using the low and slow method. So this old charger that I have, if it pulls less then 3 amps (on the meter), or rather pushes, is a good deal? There's 3 settings, the thing isn't in front of me, but I just set it to "manual". I guess what's happening on the meter matters the most? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 Everstart batteries are garbage. Have you even checked the batteries to make sure they didnt have a bad cell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern8tion9l Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 I've had problems with batteries in both of my Ws. Various brands; I had to invest in a charger. And if I plan on leaving the doors open while I'm working on something for more tan like 10-15 mins I have to disconnect it or it will def need a jump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 the negative terminal is grounded just to the left of the battery (standing on the side of the car that is). If that's what you mean by ground strap, I would imagine so. Everything seems fine there. that is the battery ground. that is not what grounds the alt though. which is where the power to charge and maintain the battery comes from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich17 Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Neverstart batteries are garbage. You guys shouldnt have this draining issues. I would suggest putting a good batery like a diehard or interstate in. I would also try and fit a 78 series battery in if possible. Then I would look at upgrading power and grounds and doing the big 3. My setup is running a 65 series battery that commonly found in ford pickup but it is mounted in the trunk. I have a new power and ground running from the rear to the front as well. The battery is grounded to the block and chassis. The power is sent to the jumper post and a new wire is ran to the starter, alternator, and the other fuse box. I am also running the 140 amp alternator. You dont have to go this drastic in you setups but IMHO GM was cheap and skimped on their wiring. Any upgrade to even a stock vehicle would be beneficial Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris2012 Posted January 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 if you take that nut off inside the door, pull the wiring out, all you need to do is twist or solder them together to permanently alleviate the problem, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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