turn signals not working

[brake]

Have a 96 GP with steering wheel volume controls (which are disabled since i didnt buy a special adapter when i got a new head unit) and my turn signals aren't working. started not working on the left, then would work when held in a certain position as you apply the turn signal, then it stopped working all together.

 

 

I've never replaced the turn signal switch in one of these cars. How difficult is it?

 

 

Does it matter if I get one with steering wheel volume controls or not since mine don't work anyway?

 

 

Also, horn stopped working. Don't know if that could be related but do the horn buttons themselves often go bad? dont have 12v at the horn, giving it 12v makes it go honk. havent gone digging in the wiring yet other than that.'

[94 olds vert]

http://tss.likeabigdog.com/

[Red Nightmare]

That page posted looks really good.

while it is best to replace the switch, you MIGHT get away with fixing the old one.

I had the same problem when I first got my 94 GTP. Had to hold signal lever it in a certain position...

Anyways I dug into it and the cam for the turn signals rides on these two tabs... what I did was mess with those, they were kind of loose, I bent them back into a tighter position and after that the turn signals worked fine. IIRC, what is happening is the cam slides on some metal strips to connect the signal. Bad or no contact - no power. Once you get into it you will see what I am talking about.

 

Once I rigged it, the signals worked fine up til the day I sold the car. Once again I recommend a new one but if someone is a cheapskate like me, fixing the old might be feasible.

 

Also, that tool that pushes the wheel locking sprocket so you can remove/install the snap ring - I highly recommend using one. You CAN get by without it but it is a pain. I think I put it on, put on the snap ring then found a socket JUST big enough to force the sprocket and snap ring into place then double checked the snap ring was seated.

 

Lastly - as you will be messing with the airbag, pay real close attention to what you are doing. disconnect battery before anything. Also there is some detail about the airbag alignment you want to look into. Requires no special (or any) tools and is real easy but still needs to be done.

[brake]

That page posted looks really good.

while it is best to replace the switch, you MIGHT get away with fixing the old one.

I had the same problem when I first got my 94 GTP. Had to hold signal lever it in a certain position...

Anyways I dug into it and the cam for the turn signals rides on these two tabs... what I did was mess with those, they were kind of loose, I bent them back into a tighter position and after that the turn signals worked fine. IIRC, what is happening is the cam slides on some metal strips to connect the signal. Bad or no contact - no power. Once you get into it you will see what I am talking about.

 

Once I rigged it, the signals worked fine up til the day I sold the car. Once again I recommend a new one but if someone is a cheapskate like me, fixing the old might be feasible.

 

Also, that tool that pushes the wheel locking sprocket so you can remove/install the snap ring - I highly recommend using one. You CAN get by without it but it is a pain. I think I put it on, put on the snap ring then found a socket JUST big enough to force the sprocket and snap ring into place then double checked the snap ring was seated.

 

Lastly - as you will be messing with the airbag, pay real close attention to what you are doing. disconnect battery before anything. Also there is some detail about the airbag alignment you want to look into. Requires no special (or any) tools and is real easy but still needs to be done.

 

 

 

I am most definitely a cheapskate, I will try fixing it. I know one of the cancelling springs has been broken for a long time so I'll probably buy new springs and see what happens when I open it up.

[ron350]

Warning: This is just about useless without pictures but may help someone.

 

This summer I took RedNightmares advice and just cleaned the hardened grease off the turn signal contacts. The turn signals had been intermittent for over a year and now thy work like new.

All I did was pop the front part of the turn signal switch off the larger pat that does not move. Then scrape and clean all of the copper contacts and add some new synthetic grease and pop it back together.

This front part is made out of the same plastic as the larger back part of the switch. This front part has the canceling springs attached and 2 spring loaded copper contacts that have bumps sticking up on them. If these copper bumps are worn down you really should replace the whole turn signal switch assembly.

 

DiscoStud made that turn signal switch replacement tutorial and I thank him for going to the trouble.

http://tss.likeabigdog.com/

 

There are a couple of things I learned the hard way while fixing the turn signal switch.

When you unscrew the airbag –horn pad and have it hanging forward to remove the electrical connectors.

First carefully remove the ground clip that is just clipped into a bolt hole.

Then remove the horn connector by pushing in on the white spring loaded plastic tube and twisting counter clockwise. You don’t want to break the little locking tab that holds the white tube down in place.

Then undo the airbag connector by removing the green locking clip and then push down on the tab and separate the two yellow pieces.

 

Another thing to be careful with is to use the correct Lock Plate compressor or you can bend the lock plate. You want to use a Lock Plate compressor that has the legs spaced just over 2†apart.

Lock Plate compressors made for older cars and trucks have the legs space about 3†apart and will only apply pressure on the edges of the W-body Lock Plate.

 

After bending my lock plate and having to straighten it I broke down and purchased the right lock plate compressor from Harbor Freight.

It would be nice to know if AutoZone rents the correct lock plate compressor.