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Sell It, Fix It, or Rebuild It? 95 lq1 Cutlass Convertible


95LQ1VERT

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i'd say your wires are the issue then... perhaps they are broken internally and how you have them routed now makes a good enough connection to not cause a misfire?

 

otherwise, they had to have been arcing to ground, which would be bad insulation.

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The wires are cheapo duralasts (2nd set) and not even 900 miles lol but they were almost kinked in half in the clip so I think your 99.9 % right... I should ask for my money back. How good is the brand Prestolite for wires?

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Rockauto had a pretty decent price on OEM wires a while back..under $70.00. Might be worth checking out.

 

The wires are cheapo duralasts (2nd set) and not even 900 miles lol but they were almost kinked in half in the clip so I think your 99.9 % right... I should ask for my money back. How good is the brand Prestolite for wires?
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Rockauto had a pretty decent price on OEM wires a while back..under $70.00. Might be worth checking out.

 

Just picked up a set of AC Delcos yesterday! Wholesaler closeout price @ Rockauto.com is $56.00 - Only 5 left in stock.

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Power Steering pump was just replaced, SOOOO much better sounding, however I didnt completely flush/ fill and add in-line filter as they recomended. IS IT NECESSARY?

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First (not so) MAJOR problem has arised. My coolant level sensor is out, light on dash is on but radiator and resevoir are full to the normal height and no overheating. :cheers: to spending another $50 on a stupid sensor.

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Or, do what I did, after having bough two, both of which lasted less than six months, and just disconnect the sensor...the light goes out...and I'm paranoid about checking coolant level frequently anyhow.. :thumbsup:

First (not so) MAJOR problem has arised. My coolant level sensor is out, light on dash is on but radiator and resevoir are full to the normal height and no overheating. :cheers: to spending another $50 on a stupid sensor.
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I read over your thread last night and figured that'd be the best thing to do. As long as I keep checking the level myself, there is not a need for a car to remind me! :)

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800 mile update - Mileage on car - 139005

 

- Serpentine belt has a rip in it, squeaks. FIXED

- My "new" reman starter is junk, fails to engage sometimes. TESTED GOOD, DONT HAVE A CLUE? IGNITION SWITCH?

- ABS light on continuosly, brake light intermittent. BRAKE LIGHT OFF, RIGHT REAR BRAKE MISSING ELECTRICAL LINE FOR ABS.

- transmission lines that look crimped onto rubber lines are wet with atf, no drops on ground.

- Minor oil leak, could be oil filter? Around that area.

- Low coolant sesnor is out. UNPLUGGED MOD

- MPG ranges from 14.5 to 16.5 mostly city. BAD 24X CPS MOST LIKELY THE CULPRIT.

Not to bad, a lot of little things.

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  • 2 years later...

hi, when you changed the timing belt did you change the tensioner too? anything else? i just found out my belt skipped and now does not sound good, dealer wants 1600$ to change but is not sure about any damage until the new belt is installed. any suggestions. 1993 olds cut sup convertible

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hi, when you changed the timing belt did you change the tensioner too? anything else? i just found out my belt skipped and now does not sound good, dealer wants 1600$ to change but is not sure about any damage until the new belt is installed. any suggestions. 1993 olds cut sup convertible

What do they plan to do for $1600? That amount of money is CRAZY for a belt replacement, even if they add a serpentine belt, fix some brittle vacuum hoses, and add an oil change.

 

The engine is designed so that the timing belt can break, but the valves don't hit the pistons. Therefore they don't bend valves or crack pistons. This would be the common reason for a hugely expensive timing belt repair--on some other engine families.

 

WHY did the belt "skip"? Was it beyond it's service life (60,000 miles) or did the camshaft(s) seize?

 

Unless something REALLY WEIRD happened, this should cost a few hundred dollars, not $1600.

 

The timing belt "kit" comes with pulleys. The tensioner is removed, drained of oil, re-filled with clean oil, and re-used.

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hi, when you changed the timing belt did you change the tensioner too? anything else? i just found out my belt skipped and now does not sound good, dealer wants 1600$ to change but is not sure about any damage until the new belt is installed. any suggestions. 1993 olds cut sup convertible

 

The tensioner is reusable but the pulleys are not. You have to replace all 3 pulleys or you'll be doing it again. The tensioner is the one you gotta be careful with. If it's done wrong, that's a $60 part plus another belt.

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The engine is designed so that the timing belt can break, but the valves don't hit the pistons. Therefore they don't bend valves or crack pistons. This would be the common reason for a hugely expensive timing belt repair--on some other engine families.

 

WHY did the belt "skip"? Was it beyond it's service life (60,000 miles) or did the camshaft(s) seize?

 

Unless something REALLY WEIRD happened, this should cost a few hundred dollars, not $1600.

 

The timing belt "kit" comes with pulleys. The tensioner is removed, drained of oil, re-filled with clean oil, and re-used.

 

I had a timing belt skip on me. The belt tensioner seized up and let the belt get looser and looser until it shredded off some teeth. Also, though this engine may be a non-interference design, a failed belt can still do other damage. Once when the belt failed on my car, it wrapped itself around the main drive cog until the timing cover cracked and the intermediate shaft and timing chain snapped. It did so much damage that I had to scrap the engine and get another one anyway.

 

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Edited by crazyd
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dealer wants 1600$ to change but is not sure about any damage until the new belt is installed.

 

The belt tensioner seized up and let the belt get looser and looser until it shredded off some teeth. Also, though this engine may be a non-interference design, a failed belt can still do other damage. Once when the belt failed on my car, it wrapped itself around the main drive cog until the timing cover cracked and the intermediate shaft and timing chain snapped. It did so much damage that I had to scrap the engine and get another one anyway.

 

Yes, "something weird" happened to your engine. However, you did not need to authorize $1600 in repairs BEFORE they told you there was "other damage".

1. $1600 is fukkin' crazy. They're banging his ass with neither kisses nor lube.

2. The dealership should know about any likely "damage" before the timing belt job is done--of course, they may need to do some disassembly to make that determination. It's not an interference engine. If the timing belt isn't wound-up like yours, the cams turn, the tensioner hasn't failed, and the timing chain isn't loose or broken...there aren't a lot of things to suspect as high-failure items. That leaves "something weird" which no-one can estimate for.

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