Turbocharged400sbc Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 i dont recall if its an interference motor but when i do things the quick way on any T chain/belt, i find TDC and go 90* clockwise so all the pistons are down in the holes so that if a cam snaps over from spring pressure valves dont kiss pistons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 Over the years I've never felt 100% confident to it being interference or not. I lean toward non because my belt in the cutlass went (well, one of the idler pulleys) at 75mph on the freeway, and didn't have any issues once I put new pulleys and belt on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharged400sbc Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 yeah for some reason i recall the lq1 not being interference either since the oe Tbelt job has you setup one bank and tighten the cam sproket bolts then turn the crank 180* with the one pair of cams tightened down with the jtool, and tighten that bank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 Im planning on putting the engine to Top Dead Center and then Marking all the positions of the cam sprocket to the carrier housing, and marking the belt and what not so when I reassemble it, Its already "timed". Idk if that made sense but I think it will work.  The proper way to time it is:  Remove the timing belt.  Set crank to #1 TDC (align mark on crank pulley to mark on timing cover)  Clamp all cams down using the cam flats and a cam hold down tool (can make one out of keystock)  Loosen cam sprocket bolts and tap sprockets free from the tapered spacers so they freewheel on the camshafts  Install new belt, idlers and tensioner, and tension belt, ensuring crank pulley has not moved from #1 TDC  Tighten rear bank sprockets down, and remove rear camshaft hold down tool.  Turn crank over, clockwise, 360 degrees and align marks up again.  Tighten front bank sprockets down, and remove front camshaft hold down tool.  Turn crankshaft over a few times ensuring cam flats are 180 degrees opposed from each other, comparing bank to bank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharged400sbc Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 yeah thats the oe method  takes way too much time when your paid by the bookhour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 Early LQ1's are non-interference...'96-'97 are interference...because of the changes made to those engines. Â Â Over the years I've never felt 100% confident to it being interference or not. I lean toward non because my belt in the cutlass went (well, one of the idler pulleys) at 75mph on the freeway, and didn't have any issues once I put new pulleys and belt on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 So far, I have the powersteering pump, and all cam covers off the engine. What is the # 1 cylinder? Is it the front bank or rear bank, farthest cylinder on the passenger side? HELP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 Anyone? Â And if I dont have the cam hold down tools what can I do? Will it be stupid hard or just move on ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 Crossover pipe, timing belt and tensioner off, and front cam carrier housing is off. Now im on to the front manifold and the head. For anyone who swears by PB blaster, try WD-40 specialist pentrating oil. You'll never go back, IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 #1 cyl is rear bank passenger side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 Make your own cam hold down tools. Â http://60degreev6.com/content.php/25-Make-your-own-cam-hold-down-tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 Last night I was working on removing the front head and manifold, Finished that, and man what a breeze this motor is compared to my Ford 302 I swapped into my old Bronco, the bolts came off a lot smoother! Â Anyways, tonight I took the rear bank's cam carrier, cylinder head, and manifold off. And to my surprise, I found the blown gasket from a water port on cylinder #1. Â Cleaned all the pistons off with Berryman's B-12 Chemtool - this stuff is pretty damn potent. Â Next step, cleaning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted January 15, 2013 Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 I have timing belt kit set with hold down tools, ect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted January 15, 2013 Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 I know this is off topic, but Id love to see a 5spd vert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted January 15, 2013 Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 i'm not so sure that the 96-97 are interference either... Â reason being, the belt replacement procedure is more or less identical to the 94-95 setup... and that has you rotating the engine 360* with the front cams locked down. if it were interference, then in that 360* of revolution, at least 2 of the pistons would have the valves contact. Â IDK, maybe i'm not thinking about it enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 Somebody tried repairing the oil pump drive o-ring with a rubberband with black RTV on it. WHAT THE F*CK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted January 15, 2013 Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 Thats awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 I dont think my Felpro head gasket set came with a oil pump drive o-ring, would these work? Â http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Dorman-Oil-Pump-Seal/1995-Oldsmobile-Cutlass-Supreme/_/N-j1nc2Z8iiup?itemIdentifier=347153_0_2826_ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 15, 2013 Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 Go to GM, buy the brown silicone o-ring they make , as well as a distributor gasket for double protection. Â Pictured: Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 I can get the "paper" one from a parts store right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 Id just go to GM to get both. They are cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 Like others have said just go to GM and get them. X2 on doubling them up should last a lot longer than the one gasket that came on from the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 Oh okay, I just wasn't sure if they would have the felpro one or not. I will pick them up tomorrow. Thanks everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Quick question... Are the head bolts Torque To Yield or can they be reused? Short on monies but, I dont want to do this again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 torque to yield, don't cheap out on those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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