butter Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Hey, HI. Having a few issues with my 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8L 3800 series II S/C (240k miles, 90% highway). I'm kind of a weekend warrior mechanic, fix shit when I can (but I'm not that skilled...all self taught)....usually realize when I'm over my head and a trip to the dealer is necessary. Thinking this is one of those time and there is a limit to the parts I'll throw at something without a fix. Maybe you guys can help out. Ok recent development/symptoms: - Drove to work fine (45 miles- highway). Normally there 12 hours and veh is totally cold when I head home...but this time I had to run some errands and attempted to restart while hot. Dead in the water. No go. - Starter cranks solid, engine turns over and stalls out within a second or two. - Fuel pump has 100k on it so figured that was it. Picked one up and chucked it in while dead in the parking lot. Fired right up. Drove 10 minutes and came back, no issues. Wouldn't restart once hot. - Pressurized fuel in lines, pump fuses look fine, relays not burned/melted. - No stalling while driving issues experienced recently, but this is the first problem I've had that stranded me n her since 2006. Possible issues: - Crank Position Sensor. Had this replaced in '06 when the thing would die on the highway then fail to start back up until cold...all the time. Looked it up and guess you need specialty tools. Had it done at dealer. Seems like it could be a similar thing.... - Ignition module. I've read some posts regarding this part causing my symptoms. The only non-starting on key turn I've ever experienced has been within the last year, but the starter didn't engage and it only happened 3 or 4 times over months....and the car was cold. - MAF Sensor Element. Original part. Possible longshot - In-Line fuel filter is old, crazy old. Fittings got stripped on last replacement a few years ago...been dreading installing a new one. After those shots in the dark, I'm stumped. The crazy thing is the car started up and drove, then died again once warm. I'm thinking it's not a fuel issue (especially with the new pump I threw at it). I generally stay on top of routine maintenance. Never beat on it. Just my commuter car that I have grown attached to in the last 10 years. Any advice you guys have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Need to get some kind of scan tool on it and see what your sensors are reading. But i believe you are on the right track. I had a similiar issue and it was the MAF for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butter Posted December 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 I have one, but it's loaned out and the dood is overseas currently. Argh! What did the MAF run you to fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 around here they want $150 at Oreilly for a new one. it takes 2 minutes to swap out with the security torx bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 you could try unplugging the MAF, the engine will run on MAP, throw a SES but run. My money is on crank sensor. you could try swapping the ICM (under the coils) but I doubt its that. CPS is not bad to do, just have to get a harmonic balancer puller and some metric hardware... I forget the length and thread pitch but search/google and you'll find it easy enough. I've done them on 3800s before in parking lots so I'd say you could handle it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butter Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 That's an impressive parking lot wrench job. Know of a writeup with photos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 [h=1]Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement[/h] [h=3]Removal Procedure[/h] Tools Required [TABLE] [TR] [TD] • [/TD] [TD]J 36660-A Torque/Angle Meter[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE] [TR] [TD] • [/TD] [TD]J 37096 Flywheel Holding Tool[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE] [TR] [TD] • [/TD] [TD]J 38197-A Balancer Remover[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical. Remove the serpentine belts from the crankshaft pulley. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement or Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. Remove the right inner fender access cover. Refer to Splash Shield Replacement - Engine in Body Front End. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer. Refer to Crankshaft Balancer Replacement in Engine Mechanical.Click to Enlarge Remove the crankshaft position sensor shield (1). Do NOT use a pry bar. Disconnect the sensor electrical connector. Remove the attaching bolts from the crankshaft position sensor.Click to Enlarge Remove the crankshaft position sensor from the block face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 Sounds like icm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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