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Does this grease mean a possible broken CV/Axle Boot?


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Posted

I'm pretty sure this grease is a indication that I have a possible broken CV/Axle Boot. The grease is lime/army green and odorless. But just to be sure I have provided some pictures to help with the diagnosis. So if anyone could tell me I'd appreciate it

 

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Posted

Just found the problem. My boot is cracked around the edge resulting in the grease leaking out and splattering everywhere. Do they offer boot replacements? Or do I have to replace the whole axle?

Posted

You should be able to buy replacement boots and put then on separately. There shouldn't be a need to replace be whole axle.

Posted
You should be able to buy replacement boots and put then on separately. There shouldn't be a need to replace be whole axle.

 

Thanks! It'll be my first time attempting this as well as front wheel/hub bearings.

 

Does the strut assembly, control arms need to be taken apart and moved out of the way in order to replace the boot?

Posted

you can unbolt and remove the hub assembly, and then the axle will pass through the hole in the strut housing that the hub was in.

Posted
you can unbolt and remove the hub assembly, and then the axle will pass through the hole in the strut housing that the hub was in.

 

^ This.

 

That's how I replaced the boot on my car.

Posted

Also you will need snap ring pliers to get the axle apart. If the car has high miles I would just replace the whole thing. Axles are cheap for these cars.

Posted (edited)

axles are cheap. I have only fixed two and they simply had bad clamps. I would pull the HUB off and pull the axle through it.. When I do it I have the car on a jack stand, and use a hydraulic jack under the ball joint to raise the spindle so the axle is in a straight line. crowbar to pop it out of the axle and out it comes.

 

do:

clean the axle seal in the transmission with a q-tip and coat it with a little red grease

coat the axles splines at both axle ends with red grease

use thread lock and torque all bolts to spec. I also use anti-seize around any bolt head(but not on the threads) and on the firm mating surfaces of the hub to spindle.

 

torque spec

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/51854-Torque-specs-for-front-wheel-bearing-replacement?p=1038284&viewfull=1#post1038284

T-60 caliper bolts: 148 fl-lbs <--- correct value

axle nut: 184 fl lbs (rental socket available from advance/auto zone)

spindle to bearing bolts 60 ft-lbs

Edited by Crazy K
Posted

Looks like I get to replace the passengers side CV axle on mine, is there any particular one I should get?

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