getting ready for a long trip (powertrain)

[Chris2012]

Thanks for all the help regarding my, presumably, oil pump o ring problem (haven't checked it out yet).

 

W/that though, if you were going to go on a longish trip w/an oldie like mine (182,000 mile 3.1 1992 Lumina sedan), what would you want to replace, given the time, skill maybe, etc.? Of course anything can go at anytime, but things that are likely to go, especially on a long trip are things like gaskets. I suppose if I thought about it more, I'd come up w/other things.

 

If you know of workarounds to get something back up and running on the road, don't hesitate to chime in.

 

Powertrain issues encompass a lot of possibilities, but that's the way the forum is set up. I may try this thread in other sections also.

 

Long trips tend to scare people (like me). But doesn't a car stay cooler overall as opposed to shorter trips? 60-70 on I80 introduces a lot of airflow. Not exactly sure why a long trip is thought of as *more* detrimental to a vehicle.

[Night Fury]

Long trips are a little harder on a car due to the fact that the engine RUNS longer and gets nice and heatsoaked. Issues that may not happen in short city trips may show themselves in a 3 hour drive.

 

That said, I wouldn't hesitate to take my 261,000 mile 88 Grand Prix cross country. In fact, I'm leaving on a 1300 mile trip in it tomorrow. But it's been fairly thoroughly gone through.

 

Just keep an eye on vital fluids, listen, look, and smell for anything out of the ordinary and keep in mind that something as little as a slight hesitation on a short city trip may be exacerbated to strand you on a longer highway trip like a fuel injector on the verge of failing.

[RobertISaar]

spare:

 

serpentine belt

serpentine belt tensioner

radiator/heater core hoses

tire(preferably fullsize, not the donut)

driver's door handle(for the 1G coupes)

fluids

coolant elbow(3800s)

maybe some rubber vacuum line

 

 

that would round out my list of common and easily fixed issues that 1/1.5 W's might suffer from on a longer trip that would otherwise strand you. depending on how courageous you are, maybe some vice grips to clamp off a broken brake line to at least give you some braking ability should that happen(has to me a few times).

[White93z34]

For a 3.1 lumina I would not worry about a whole lot, check out your hoses, replace any questionable ones. maybe have a spare waterpump and alternator if you are really paranoid, fuel filter is always a nice touch.

 

worth mentioning is the heater line that runs down the bottom side of the passenger frame rail in the wheel well, those rust out. most people replace them with rubber hose, inspect yours if it is suspect replace it now, also NAPA sells a replacement one if you want to go the extra mile.

 

inspect your brakes... rear in-particular, visual check of brake lines and hoses (check for rust and cracking receptively)

 

But realistically anything can happen to any car. Guy I knew bought a brand new Neon in 2003 and set out on a 12 hour trip to Rhode Island a few months later, he only made it a few miles up the interstate before the slave cylinder let go and ended in a tow back to the Dodge dealer, and that was a brand new car with under 5000 miles on it.

 

I've driven my hoopties halfway across the country a bunch of times now and haven't been sent walking yet, I try to be as prepared as I can be, lots of tools namely, but I'll be honest I've broken most every one of those rules I just laid out for you to follow. Make sure you trust it and hit the road.

[Galaxie500XL]

X2...just a few weeks ago, I took my 228,000 mile LQ1 Cutlass on a nearly 1,400 mile round trip over the course of 4 days. Absolutely trouble free...in fact, the fuel mileage went up in the weeks after the trip. I'm still averaging around 21.5-22 MPG driving the car daily, around 60% highway, 40% surface streets.

 

 

Long trips are a little harder on a car due to the fact that the engine RUNS longer and gets nice and heatsoaked. Issues that may not happen in short city trips may show themselves in a 3 hour drive.

 

That said, I wouldn't hesitate to take my 261,000 mile 88 Grand Prix cross country. In fact, I'm leaving on a 1300 mile trip in it tomorrow. But it's been fairly thoroughly gone through.

 

Just keep an eye on vital fluids, listen, look, and smell for anything out of the ordinary and keep in mind that something as little as a slight hesitation on a short city trip may be exacerbated to strand you on a longer highway trip like a fuel injector on the verge of failing.

[Schurkey]

The traveling advice in my family--handed down from parents to children for generations:

"Pack fewer clothes, and more money."

 

You'll make yourself insane by loading the trunk with parts and supplies. You'd have to tow an entire car to be sure you'll have the right part when...something...breaks.

 

INSPECT the vehicle BEFORE you leave. Tires, brakes, suspension, steering, battery/alternator, belts, fluids, engine performance (tune-up), etc. PAY SOMEONE if you have to, an hour's labor is not at all out of line. Get a COMPLETE inspection.

 

REPAIR the problem areas BEFORE you leave.

 

CARRY tools that match your abilities. No need carrying an extensive collection of tools if you aren't prepared to use 'em. Most anyone can make use of screwdrivers and basic wrenches.

 

No reason to not buy some oil and washer fluid, maybe trans fluid and/or coolant where it's cheap rather than having to buy at a convenience store along the way.

Edited October 26, 2012 by Schurkey

[rich_e777]

Tip on traveling thru mountains, dont top off you fuel before your accent, just enough to get you close to the top and then you can top off.

 

Less fuel=Less weight

 

Works better with trucks with large tanks but the factors are the same. If it is the o-ring thats leaking you are good to go, mines been leaking in the garage for years after i started it up or drove it. Even now as shes my DD its still leaking and running better than ever. OIl/filter change and i use Castrol GTX High milage with a fram filter and i wouldnt use anything else on something over 100,000 miles. Never synthetic or thats what you will have to use the rest of the cars life.

 

 

Besides having oil coating the underside of your car helps prevent rust:lol:

Edited October 29, 2012 by rich_e777

[Addicted To Boost]

Never synthetic or thats what you will have to use the rest of the cars life.

FALSE! That is a myth. Going back or forth will not affect anything. Some people will notice oil leaks after changing from a conventional oil to a synthetic, but in that case... FIX the leak! And going from a synthetic to a conventional (not sure why anyone would do such a thing) will not hurt anything.

[RobertISaar]

FALSE! That is a myth. Going back or forth will not affect anything. Some people will notice oil leaks after changing from a conventional oil to a synthetic, but in that case... FIX the leak! And going from a synthetic to a conventional (not sure why anyone would do such a thing) will not hurt anything.

 

100% correct.

 

also: if traveling at high altitudes and you KNOW you're going to be going back to a lower altitude soon, get rid of all of the crappy 85 octane fuel that they run for regular grade fuel at high altitude, you don't want to run that stuff at lower elevations.

[rich_e777]

I was told by a NASCAR mech. that changing back to regular from synthetic after using regular before that will affect the way its distributed as one repels the other thus reducing the ability for either one to lubricate to its fullest. Even though it fully well might be a myth i know the guy who told me can rebuild an LS block in his sleep and know his stuff so i guess im going to have to believe the myth. I wasnt refering to leaks when changing oil types i was referring to the engine running like shit.

Edited October 29, 2012 by rich_e777

[RobertISaar]

so.... synthetic blend oil shouldn't exist based off of that myth.

[Addicted To Boost]

^Exactly.

[rich_e777]

Its what i heard and what ive always went by so if im wrong, then im wrong. Ive always used Castrol high milage and havent seemed to have issues related, runs good most of the time. Thats what he told me so he must be a good BS`er, cause i believed him.

 

Actually replacing that o-ring now just waiting on the engine to cool off a little more and it seems on top of the transaxle underneath the throttle body i found a Reeses` peanut butter cup WTF? any one else found strange things in this area? First time i had the plenum off i found a tennis ball!

[94 olds vert]

I once found a piece of bread that had long since turned into a piece of toast.

[Crazy K]

I've done some long travels... i DID have to replace an alternator mid way through the trip from Cleveland to Washington D.C. I carry tools and a spare belt, but know my vehicle well enough to be able to take care of anything else with a parts store run, short of a major failure. yes. i did a drive though of a parts store to pick up an alt and proceeded to drive another two hours till i could stop to fix it. FUN!

[RobertISaar]

there was a retractable magnet stuck on the shifter position switch on the MC until about a month ago..... no idea when it got there either, since it isn't one of mine.

[Penglii]

GF could not shift into park one day, pop the hood and take a look... found out a squirrel or something had stashed a walnut right next to the shifter linkage and it fell into place when she shifted out of park.

[rich_e777]

Found a issue that some might have doing this repair, once you get the plenum off and have access to the area it is better to remove the fuel rails and the large fitting for the coolant hose that comes out of the Thermostat housing, I got everything off and got to the point where i realized i should`ve released the damn fuel pressure so i could get the rails off, AND no parts store had the o-rings for fuel injectors. but im now pretty good at taking the top off a 3100. your going to need a big wrench for the fitting, its in the way of the bolt that holds the bracket to the oil pump shaft seal.

(My thoughts were to use the valve on the rail next to the alternator to relieve the fuel pressure but never have done this i didnt know it was the right way)

 

So im looking at doing this all again, and i would recommend that before the disassembly it will help to relieve fuel pressure and drain the coolant if it is a 3100(mines a `94)

 

And if you did it with the same engine without doing all that then props to you, maybe my car just got fat eating Reeses` and wont let me push and stretch those lines out of the way:lol:

 

And i did find out that starting a 3100 without a serp. belt isnt going to screw it up, but it cant be very good for it(sorry car)

Edited November 3, 2012 by rich_e777

[Night Fury]

Doesn't hurt it at all, you just have to keep in mind that that means that the alternator and more importantly the water pump aren't turning, you can't run it for any longer than a couple of minutes that way otherwise it'll overheat.