Timm Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Posted March 14, 2013 You know what they say! 3rd engine's the charm! Skip to 27 seconds to hear it! [video=youtube;XLeo88H2Hyk] Quote
RobertISaar Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 ...... oil pressure guage acting odd or did it really take that long to come up to normal pressure? Quote
Timm Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Posted March 14, 2013 It had a ton of air in the line, I'm sure that didn't help. I'll have to keep an eye on it. It's a mechanical instead of electrical. My last electrical one gave me all sorts of problems. There's also half a pint of seafoam in the oil right now. I'll drive it up to Muffler Man some day get the exhaust all put together, and change the oil when I get it home. (~15 miles) BUT A HUGE PROBLEM. Rear knock sensor. It's in and torqued... BUT HOW DO I GET THE CONNECTOR ON IT!!?!?!??!?!?!? I'll probably end up having to grind down the connector to get it on... There's no way I'm removing the trans to plug in one wire to a knock sensor I can see, feel, and ALMOST get plugged in. WTF GM!?!?!? Quote
RobertISaar Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 ahh, i assumed electrical... i'm not a fan of mechanical after having hot oil spray all over the interior once... Quote
Timm Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Posted March 29, 2013 Drove it to Midland! In fact, I've put about 200 miles on it! Problems: I got my brake lines mixed up at the MC. One of the rear wheels is receiving full front pressure, while one front wheel is receiving reduced rear pressure. OOPS. Gotta swap those around. Drivers door lock actuator isn't working? Trunk release solenoid isn't working? Tachometer isn't working? Car accelerates amazingly fast until about 80% throttle, then it bogs down and won't go faster until I reduce throttle. No KR at all though. O2 sensor is trash. Sits around 450mv all day. Hardly any fluctuation. Pretty sure the fuel filler neck is rusted through. Slight exhaust leak somewhere... Brake makes a metal squeaking noise when pushed hard. Pedal is also somewhat soft. New P.B. & M.C. though? Amplifier pops when stereo is turned off. Steering wheel has some play in it. New Rack&pinion, ps pump, tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bar bushings, hub assemblys, control arm bushings. Maybe the input shaft on the rack is bad? No drivers door panel. Still looking for a good condition one somewhere. Leaks into trunk from somewhere. Needs a new top desperately. I have a brand new one in my room, but decided I'd like a black top on this one instead of the white I have now. It also needs a new hydraulic pump. (possibly rams also). Quote
Timm Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Posted April 3, 2013 How much do you have in that cutty? Lol trying not to add up all the receipts I've been saving on it, but I'm sure around $4,000 by now. Here's my to do list as of now. At least it's drivable. I've been making 60 mile round trips with it about 3 or 4 times a week. I replaced the O2 sensor, swapped the lines at the master cylinder, and I'm pretty sure the filler neck is okay. No fuel leaking out when filling up or topping off. Still a lot to do living in an apartment without a garage. Quote
Disbass69 Posted April 3, 2013 Report Posted April 3, 2013 How is it compared to a normal GTP? always wondered which would be faster /handle better Sent from my HTCEVOV4G using Tapatalk 2 Quote
Timm Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Posted April 3, 2013 Definitely faster, but mainly because of the cam, new model supercharger, and the better gearing (3.29FDR vs. ?2.89? in GTPs). Not sure if I'm tuning something wrong, or if it's needing a new transmission. I can floor it and it will get up to around 5k RPM and won't go any faster until I reduce the throttle. I can floor it on the highway sometimes and it's fine? Quote
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