95 Vert - NEW(er) L26, Cam, GenV M90, No more headers or L36. Not a POS anymore?

[Timm]

Well guys, hate to call this a secret, because it wasn't! If anyone recalls my purchase of a second 95 vert in mid January... Here's a little bit of a late update.

The LQ1 had a lot of work that needed to be done, so I opted to do another 3.8 swap!

Bought a 99LTZ, took the blower and cam off the Impala, re-built the thing, and dropped it in! (Over a course of like 6 months!)

 

Here's a ton of pictures! From start to where I'm at now!

Edited April 3, 2013 by Timm

[Timm]

 

So why did it take me so long?

 

 

-Rack and pinion- I replaced it to avoid any problems on a 17 year old car. The first replacement had the input shaft crooked. So after a few hours of trying to manuever it out from under the headers, I got it out and got a warranty replacement in. And it still wasn't 100%. Both tie rods were equal. Turns out the replacement steering column had the bottom u-joint thing completely 180* wrong. I had to take my dremmel to grind off the "key" inside the female portion that goes on the input shaft.

Set back time - 2 weeks

 

-Headers- Let me start by saying NEVER AGAIN. EVER!!! I knew I'd have to cut the ear off the trans. No problem, I don't see why 2nd gen people cry about that. Takes 30 seconds with a sawzall. But that firewall.... GIVE ME A BREAK! I knew it needed to be re-worked. I thought my mini sledge after 4 hours would have it close. NOPE!I removed that cradle and re-installed the engine over 6 times hitting it with my giant hammer for about 2 hours each time. After a few hours and a die grinder it fit, but now I've got a giant hole in my floor. And there's a mysterious exhaust leak right on the flange, even after a new gasket sprayed with that Permatex copper spray.

Set back time -3 months. -ongoing-

 

-Transmission- I used the one from the LTZ which was actually a lower mileage JY replacement that was in there (so they say). The drivers CV boot was leaking a little, so I spent $15 to re-build it, cool! Sealed great! For some reason I needed to drop the cradle some, and after getting it back together I found the axle would spin 300*, then the last 60* it would LIFT the engine and trans... what.... I didn't even want to screw with it. New axle, NOW I'LL BE ALL SET! :-D Well, after getting everything installed, and filled with Dex6 ($$$) It was LEAKING! I made sure to put new axle seals on just to make sure it wouldn't leak! The whole side cover gasket needed to be replaced, of course I couldn't have done that with the transmission OUT. :-/ so after a 5 hour job, I got that replaced! But it's still leaking... So I try to get the new axle out to get the cover off again. NOTHING. I was using my 3 foot crow bar swinging on the fender and with both feet kicking the thing. Absolutely nothing. After 1.5 hours of trying to get the axle out, I said I'd be able to at least inspect what went wrong and fix it. So I get it all apart again, and don't see anything wrong. I clean it all up and torque it all back together. Fill it back up and LEAKING STILL. Now it's from the new giant o-ring that goes sorta around the drivers axle. Well, without the axle coming out, there's no way to get the o-ring replaced. So after a can of brake cleaner, compressed air, and a can of "The Right Stuff" gasket maker, the leak seems to be sealed from the outside. For now...

Set back time -3 months-

 

-AC- I used the original compressor off the cutlass as it had been replaced not too long ago, but used the 3.8L lines. The 3.8L lines need the 3.8L accumulator. Which doesn't connect to the other side of the system... In the end after a ton of trying to figure something out, I just got the piece that connects to the other side of the accumulator, and used a 500psi hose and clamped 6 clamps on it... After 3 months, it's still holding the r134a. Still blows ice cold, so I guess my ghetto fix worked?

Set back time -3 weeks-

 

-Tensioner & Alt- Someone took the tensioner off the LTZ before I bought it, okay, fine. Buy another. NO HEATER FITTINGS. Okay, order from GM... DISCONTINUED. Okay, find some at the J/Y. POINTING WRONG WAY. Go back and get different ones. They work!!! So I've got my new tensioner and alternator on there! THE GENV HITS THE ALT. Okay, nothing I can do on this one. Ended up taking the tensioner and alternator off the Impala (which by now was my sisters DD. Try explaining to your 16 yo sister you need parts off her 1st car for your project car) and using the LTZ ones on the Impala.

Set back time -2 weeks-

 

-Fuel line- I knew they'd need to be re-worked, so I did re-work them! But now it seems it's leaking around a buried compression fitting. I've never actually seen it leak, but I can wipe it clean, then after running it for about 20 mins it will be a little wet again.

Set back time -Haven't even bothered yet-

 

-Master cylinder- Turns out my original MC had a leaky seal, and was only pressuring the RR and LF. Also, the ABS unit was right in the way of the throttle. New MC for a NON ABS car, problem solved.

Set back time -1 week-

 

-Mysterious Stalling- So after a month of sitting in the driveway, I decide to let it idle for a while. It gets up to temp, gauge was pointing at 200. Then out of no where a tiny belt squeal and it stopped. I started it again, it took a little longer to start than normal, and I had to give it some gas to get it running. Then after running for 2 minutes, I turn on the headlights and it kills the thing. Try to turn it over again, and the thing is seized, just a click of the solenoid, hear it hit the flywheel, and nothing. Let it cool over night, and it starts up rough, but idles fine. let it idle for about 5 mins and no problems. But had to shut it off and head to work.

Set back time -IDK, hopefully not long, but I know it will be-

 

-Mysterious noise from pulley side of engine- After freaking out for 2 weeks thinking my new P/S pump was shot, I found my water pump pulley wasn't tightened down. DUH. I forgot to tighten it down after painting it. Glad it was a simple fix! (Only one on this stupid project)

Set back time -2 weeks-

 

There's some other ones I'm forgetting, but it's been a pretty depressing project. This Cutlass will be my last project car. I'm totally done after this. No project goes this wrong. It's gotta mean something, like I should stop.

 

The car still hasn't been on the road since the day I bought it in January.

 

Hopefully this thing is road worthy. But still having a fuel leak, exhaust leak, hole in the floor, self seizing engine, and super low power (bad trans?) It's really scaring me I'll never be seen smiling behind the wheel on a nice road trip.

 

 

Now I'm a hour away in college full time, and working part time. I don't know if I'll even be able to have it on the road within another year. This is the most depressing car ever. I guess after putting so many hours into the thing I keep kindling a tiny hope that some day I can drive it. [/FALSE-HOPE]

[topless94style2]

 

Holy crap man you put some freaking work into that car. Don't give up though, stay at college and enjoy it come back to the car next summer and don't take so much on at one time. Putting in the effort to get that much custom work done in a short period of time and then running into constant problems can break a guy.

 

Trust me, I did a turbo build on the LQ1 in college, ran into life problems and then it sat for 6 years never finished. Lesson learned. Take a break and come back and get that beast on the road.

 

Onto your problems:

 

Pull the engine and fix the transmission right, or ditch it and get a replacement.

 

I had the same issue getting the driver side axle out when I pulled the motor from the Regal. I cut the boot and yanked it out with the axle partially on. Even with the engine out of the car, it took some good force to pop the axle out and a decent amount of blood haha.

 

While the engine is out:

 

I put in a Gen 2 AC system in my cutlass, took some persuasion for the lines, but they fit from compressor to condensor to the firewall. Haven't tested it yet, but I don't see any problems. Re do yours like this at least.

 

Sell the headers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Then have the floor properly repaired. Get some ported exhaust manifolds / power log and a 3" downpipe. Headers aren't worth the effort you'll have plenty of power.

 

Hopefully your engine isn't toast, but if its seizing I'd suggest checking those rod bearings.

 

Recheck all your wiring and make sure its kosher, and that the BBV is set up right or at least venting to atmosphere.

 

The positive side is you still have a vert to cruise around in. Enjoy that and Good luck.

Edited September 27, 2012 by topless94style2

[GnatGoSplat]

Damn, you've done a ton of work in 9-months. More than I've done in 18-years! Looks like you're making incredible progress. With that kind of momentum, you should just keep it going.

Did you paint the engine compartment blue to contrast with the exterior, or are you hoping to end up with 2 blue twinkies?

[94 olds vert]

Very nice work. I hope you are able to get behind the wheel of this car and drive it. After seeing those white cutty 5 spokes. It makes me want to paint mine in that color.

[Timm]

Thanks for the replies guys, been busy at college!

 

And I do now realize that I did in fact take on way too much at once. :-/

 

I did get to go home and drive it around the yard. My terrible "fix" of the trans leak is holding for now. And it even squaked the tires in the driveway!

 

I suppose it's just hard to ever see it getting finished now that I've got a job that's a hour away from home, school that's a hour away from home, and if I'm not at school, I'm at work, and vise versa. :-/ No place AT ALL to work on the thing in any spare time up here... I'd hate to let the thing to sit in a driveway in the rain and snow for 4 years.

 

Should I pull the engine & trans? YES.

 

But it's tough when my parents (rightfully) want to park in their garage. And I'd be taking up most of it if I started doing any kind of work on it that would last more than 1 day (including tiding up when done).

 

Hopefully I meet someone up here at college that has a enclosed garage I could use.

 

It's a total disappointment knowing you're so close you can taste it, then running into a brick wall...

 

I think the trans is okay, I was just used to having the same setup in my 01 Impala, and for some reason, it just felt a LOT quicker off the line, and a bit touchier on the accelerator.

 

And as for headers, the exhaust leak seems to be fixed. It was leaking around the o2 bung that was welded in by muffler man.

 

I'm not 100% sure if I'm ditching the headers yet, as I scrapped all the stock manifolds. (I still have my 2.5" down pipe) I'm not sure how easy it is to trade used headers for a used p-log and the rest of the manifolds....? Is that an easy trade?

 

Well, now that I think of it, headers seem to be high maintenance. At least the cheap ones I've got, and I'm really looking for longevity. (besides checking the timing chain time to time) A p-log seems like it would be way more reliable. I just wish the stock manifolds could look as good as the headers look. :-(

 

I'm not too worried about the AC. If I have to add 2 cans of Freon every spring to last me well into winter, I'll be fine. Those lines are a pain to get off in the JY with the engine in, and new ones are unbelievably expensive. Maybe once I have EVERY BUG worked out, and I'm bored on the thing, I'll properly repair it. But it's towards the bottom of my to-do list for time being.

 

 

 

The color? I've got all the supplies to paint the rest of the thing in my room! I'll have twin-kies. Or twinning? My color is a bit darker than emmas. (I don't want to come off TOO feminine!)

Actually, I also have a brand new white top and rear curtain with glass window, and new headliner sitting in my room with the paint. It's all set to look pretty!

Oh, but also, the top pump isn't powerful enough to even lift the top 6". It goes down with help, but that's about it...

 

And the wheels were off the Impala. I had just put new tires on it a few months before selling it. It was in the deal I got to keep my tires, so I just gave her the dry rotted ones that come with the cutty.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. After looking through the pictures, it really motivates me to get it done. Although I don't even have a chance to touch it. But someday hopefully I can get it going and reach my real dream of going on a long distance road trip, with no worries on reliability, and no problems at all, with my top down.

[pshojo]

Don't give up on this! This is really funny. I have had my cutlass sedan off road since Feburary trying to do L26 swap with using old 4t60e trans. I also have friend with 93 Vert that's been working on L27 swap. Neither one of us have ours running. You have done a crap load more! It's learning process. You have great car! I'm just trying to figure out the wiring harness on mine.

[pshojo]

I figured out the AC issue on my 95 Cutty. I used AC lines and accumulator from 96 regal. Everything bolted right up. So I just replaced accumulator, compressor lines and good to go

[Timm]

Well, it's good to know I'm not the only one running into all sorts of constraints on my project! Hopefully, I can stick insurance on it for the weekend, go home and at least test drive it on the road to make sure the transmission is okay, let it get up to temp to make sure its not going to seize. Then possibly start dropping the engine and trans. I think I will sell (trade) the headers for a p-log and stock manifolds.

[ricklovin93]

out of curiousity, if you dont mind me asking how much money is spent so far?

[Timm]

out of curiousity, if you dont mind me asking how much money is spent so far?

 

The car was about $750, and I think I spent as a total with the car cost included around $2k - $3k. But not 100%. I'll add up all my receipts when it's finished.

[ricklovin93]

wow thats not too bad

[Timm]

wow thats not too bad

 

I guess its not! Usually when I put more money into a car than I paid for it, I feel it's a pretty bad deal. But the going rate for good condition verts is probably around $2k - $3k with 150k+ miles.

[BrianG]

Nice work!! God I want a Cutty Vert bad.

[Timm]

Well, I've got news. Good, more bad, and moving forward with it.

 

I took it on its first test drive. Only its second time on the road since I've owned it. And both times I've had to tow it home. That means 100% of the time, I ended up towing my car home.

 

I had my HP Tuners all set up, and it was scanning okay. I always thought it felt a little low on power for the mods, but it still moved about as fast as a caviler. I made it one mile, turned around, made it half a mile, and it stalled. Actually seized is the term. Tried turning it over, NOTHING. A click from the solenoid and all the lights going dark is all... Pull the thing back home and try again. NOPE. Wait about 5 hours with the hood open to let it cool down. NOPE. To make matters worse, my scan of the whole thing is gone. HP Tuners had a error and shut itself down.

 

So after a good 5 hours, this is where I called it quits at:

 

 

Any ideas?

I tried turning it over with a breaker bar, NOTHING.

Before I put the thing in, I could turn the whole system, belts and all with >35ftlbs.

 

Bearings wouldn't seize the thing. Too soft, right? They'd just scour and start knocking!

My double roller timing chain, I had the chamfer machined to match the original, and even machined the oil pump cover. And got a new oil pump. I don't think any of that would seize it.

I put all new lifters in, but those would cause a lot more problems if they somehow seized to the block.

The only thing I can think it might be is the pistons... I de-glazed the cylinders, and completely cleaned up the pistons, and used new STOCK SIZE rings.

 

The brand I used for the oil pump, lifters, main & rod bearings, and piston rings is Federal Mogul's Sealed Power. I've never heard of any problems with their products before!

 

I'm sure I'll figure it out when I start tearing the thing back down... :-/

 

I hate having to buy new head gaskets and bolts when the ones on it have 1 mile on them. :-(

[GnatGoSplat]

Damn, that's awful!

Have you already pulled the plugs to make sure it's not hydro-locked?

[19Cutlass94]

Pull the plugs so your not fighting compression. Then you can look into the cylinders a little bit to see what happened. You can spray stuff in there, or squirt oil in there to free the rings if anything might have happened.

 

No strange noises or anything before it stalled?

[Timm]

Haven't pulled the plugs yet.

 

As far as how it stalled...

 

I accelerated probably around 70% throttle from 45 to 70MPH, then let off the gas. I started slowing down, then tried accelerating again when I reached around 60, then noticed I wasn't accelerating. It must have happened when I let off the gas. No big noises or anything. It went completely un-noticed by me until I tried to accel...

 

I'm thinking possibly timing...

 

I got the double roller timing chain in there, and I was 99% sure I lined up all the timing marks correctly, but now that I think about it, it has been taking a little longer to crank over than a normal 3.8, and it did seem pretty low on power also... When accelerating hard, it studdered a bit, possibly KR? Not sure... But even with timing set slightly off, it wouldn't seize the engine I wouldn't think...?

[Timm]

Here's whats up:

Plug1:

Plug3:

Plug5:

Plug2:

Plug4:

Plug6:

Front Bank:

 

 

Cylinder 4:

Cylinder 6:

 

So, it looks like the cylinders are going to be honed out at a machine shop.

 

There was no sign of any fluids in the cylinders.

 

All the plugs and cylinders were made that black after 2 miles. (But we have had it running to move around the driveway)

 

Plug number six looks like it's got something on it, not sure if it was even firing... It didn't smell like gas in any cylinders.

 

Engine still won't turn over...

 

I've intorduced another option for myself...

 

Low mileage L26...

Looks like 35k-50k go for around $700,

 

Under 10k around $1k.

 

To re-do the L36 block, I'd need to take the thing to the machine shop, get it honed out, which is going to mean new rings, new pistons, possibly wrist pins, maybe even new main & rod bearings if the thing tossed any metal around... If it did, it would need the crank re-ground...

 

A low mileage block would already be pretty much set to go, and I'm sure I could sell the low mileage l26 heads, intake combo, possibly the low mileage l26 balancer, cam, etc.

 

I still need rear exhaust manifold, and cross over. And to buy a p-log...

I'd need to purchase those if I chose to go with re-building the block, or they'd come free with a new engine. (minus the p-log)

 

I hate to throw away all the work I did on this one... I will say it's been a great learning experience, but sometimes you have to know when to call it quits... For obvious reasons, I don't feel too confident in re-doing the thing again.

 

I probably won't be touching this thing for the rest of the year, but I guess that's how it works out sometimes.

Edited October 20, 2012 by Timm

[GnatGoSplat]

Looks like a pretty nasty groove in cylinder #4.

[19Cutlass94]

If the motor wont turn over, check your bottom bearings. Might have spun one.

[Timm]

Well, after tearing it all apart, it turns out the main bearings were seized. Loosened the main caps and was able to turn it over. Which I find odd, as neither the crank or block were machined, and the bearings were stock replacement size. In theory, I should have had TOO MUCH clearance rather than being too close...?

 

Meh, either way, I'm heading down to Waterford, MI early next week to get a new low mileage NA 3.8L SIII. I'll be selling off the heads, intake, and balancer to hopefully make some money back on it. Not sure if they charge a core there or not, as I'd like to be able to sell the incredibly low mileage oil pump out of my rebuilt one, as well as my brand new water pump.

 

After tearing the entire old engine down, I decided to start on the transmission. After having to go get a specialty axle popper (since my crow bar wouldn't do the trick) I finally got the brand new drivers axle out. I purchased all new solenoids for it (because with my luck, I'd get it all together and have one fail). And I started taking off the side cover, and two of the torx bolts stripped out on me.

 

Of course there's no room to fit a wrench on the head to try to get it out that way, so now I'm going to be drilling the heads off...

 

I CAN'T WAIT TO BE DONE WITH THIS CAR!!!

 

Here's my To-Do list as of right now.

 

Cutlass TO DO List:

-----------------------------------------------------------BODY / FRAME----------------------------------------------------------

ÿ Fix leaky compression farrow in 3/8” Fuel pressure line

ÿ Form 2 Steel plates to form around exhaust tunnel hole (1 for inside, 1 under)

ÿ Align both plates and drill holes for large rivets

ÿ Goop a generous amount of seam sealer around both plates

ÿ Rivet plates in place

ÿ De-grease steel plates and spray with truck bed liner or undercoating

ÿ Install wiring for heated seats

ÿ Install wiring for power converter

ÿ Install center council

ÿ Install passenger seat and rear seat

ÿ Coat all weather strips with 3M 08897 Silicone Lubricant (Dry Type)

ÿ Create a solid grounding point or two in the engine bay

-----------------------------------------------------------TRANSMISSION----------------------------------------------------------

ÿ Remove Drivers CV Axle

ÿ Remove Side Cover

ÿ Replace Valve Pressure Control Solenoid ACDelco #10478146

ÿ Replace Shift Solenoids (A & ACDelco # 24219819 (x2) – BWD# S9857

ÿ Replace Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid ACDelco #24227747 - BWD# S9849

ÿ Clean O-Ring & Gasket and Replace Side Cover

ÿ Inspect Both Axle Seals and Replace if Needed

ÿ Degrease, Clean, and Paint

-----------------------------------------------------------OLD ENGINE----------------------------------------------------------

ÿ Remove Harmonic Balancer

ÿ Remove Water Pump

ÿ Remove Timing Cover

ÿ Remove Oil Pump & Retaining Plate

ÿ Remove Double Roller Timing Chain Set-up

ÿ Remove Hydraulic Valve Lifters

ÿ Remove Camshaft

-----------------------------------------------------------NEW ENGINE----------------------------------------------------------

ÿ Remove ICM & Coil Packs

ÿ Remove Tensioner Assembly

ÿ Remove Fuel Rail & Intake Manifolds

ÿ Remove Exhaust Manifolds

ÿ Remove Valve Covers

ÿ Remove Rocker Arms, Push Rods, & Lifters

ÿ Remove Cylinder Heads

ÿ Remove Harmonic Balancer

ÿ Remove Water Pump

ÿ Swap in old Oil Pump & Retaining Plate

ÿ Remove Timing Cover

ÿ Remove Timing Chain & Gears

ÿ Remove Balance Shaft

ÿ Remove Balance Shaft Bearing and Plug with Freeze Plug

ÿ Remove Stock Camshaft and Replace with XP Cam

ÿ Install Double Roller Timing Chain

ÿ Install Timing Cover & Water Pump

ÿ Install Lifters & Retainers

ÿ Install L67 Cylinder Heads

ÿ Install Newer Pushrods & Rocker Arms

ÿ Install Valve Covers

ÿ Install Lower Intake Manifold

ÿ Install Supercharger & Throttle Body

ÿ Install Fuel Rail

ÿ Install Exhaust Manifolds

ÿ Install New Spark Plugs

ÿ Install AC Delco Wire Set

[Timm]

Well, after tearing it all apart, it turns out the main bearings were seized. Loosened the main caps and was able to turn it over. Which I find odd, as neither the crank or block were machined, and the bearings were stock replacement size. In theory, I should have had TOO MUCH clearance rather than being too close...?

 

Meh, either way, I'm heading down to Waterford, MI early next week to get a new low mileage NA 3.8L SIII. I'll be selling off the heads, intake, and balancer to hopefully make some money back on it. Not sure if they charge a core there or not, as I'd like to be able to sell the incredibly low mileage oil pump out of my rebuilt one, as well as my brand new water pump.

 

After tearing the entire old engine down, I decided to start on the transmission. After having to go get a specialty axle popper (since my crow bar wouldn't do the trick) I finally got the brand new drivers axle out. I purchased all new solenoids for it (because with my luck, I'd get it all together and have one fail). And I started taking off the side cover, and two of the torx bolts stripped out on me.

 

Of course there's no room to fit a wrench on the head to try to get it out that way, so now I'm going to be drilling the heads off...

 

I CAN'T WAIT TO BE DONE WITH THIS CAR!!!

 

Here's my To-Do list as of right now.

 

Cutlass TO DO List:

-----------------------------------------------------------BODY / FRAME----------------------------------------------------------

ÿ Fix leaky compression farrow in 3/8†Fuel pressure line

ÿ Form 2 Steel plates to form around exhaust tunnel hole (1 for inside, 1 under)

ÿ Align both plates and drill holes for large rivets

ÿ Goop a generous amount of seam sealer around both plates

ÿ Rivet plates in place

ÿ De-grease steel plates and spray with truck bed liner or undercoating

ÿ Install wiring for heated seats

ÿ Install wiring for power converter

ÿ Install center council

ÿ Install passenger seat and rear seat

ÿ Coat all weather strips with 3M 08897 Silicone Lubricant (Dry Type)

ÿ Create a solid grounding point or two in the engine bay

-----------------------------------------------------------TRANSMISSION----------------------------------------------------------

ÿ Remove Drivers CV Axle

ÿ Remove Side Cover

ÿ Replace Valve Pressure Control Solenoid ACDelco #10478146

ÿ Replace Shift Solenoids (A & ACDelco # 24219819 (x2) – BWD# S9857

ÿ Replace Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid ACDelco #24227747 - BWD# S9849

ÿ Clean O-Ring & Gasket and Replace Side Cover

ÿ Inspect Both Axle Seals and Replace if Needed

ÿ Degrease, Clean, and Paint

-----------------------------------------------------------OLD ENGINE----------------------------------------------------------

ÿ Remove Harmonic Balancer

ÿ Remove Water Pump

ÿ Remove Timing Cover

ÿ Remove Oil Pump & Retaining Plate

ÿ Remove Double Roller Timing Chain Set-up

ÿ Remove Hydraulic Valve Lifters

ÿ Remove Camshaft

-----------------------------------------------------------NEW ENGINE----------------------------------------------------------

ÿ Remove ICM & Coil Packs

ÿ Remove Tensioner Assembly

ÿ Remove Fuel Rail & Intake Manifolds

ÿ Remove Exhaust Manifolds

ÿ Remove Valve Covers

ÿ Remove Rocker Arms, Push Rods, & Lifters

ÿ Remove Cylinder Heads

ÿ Remove Harmonic Balancer

ÿ Remove Water Pump

ÿ Swap in old Oil Pump & Retaining Plate

ÿ Remove Timing Cover

ÿ Remove Timing Chain & Gears

ÿ Remove Balance Shaft

ÿ Remove Balance Shaft Bearing and Plug with Freeze Plug

ÿ Remove Stock Camshaft and Replace with XP Cam

ÿ Install Double Roller Timing Chain

ÿ Install Timing Cover & Water Pump

ÿ Install Lifters & Retainers

ÿ Install L67 Cylinder Heads

ÿ Install Newer Pushrods & Rocker Arms

ÿ Install Valve Covers

ÿ Install Lower Intake Manifold

ÿ Install Supercharger & Throttle Body

ÿ Install Fuel Rail

ÿ Install Exhaust Manifolds

ÿ Install New Spark Plugs

ÿ Install AC Delco Wire Set

[Timm]

Well, I had a very productive few days off:

 

I found out why my transmission was leaking... Namely Tim=Idoit...

Here's the side cover o-ring that seals the side cover to the trans....

That grey stuff is my bandaid of "The Right Stuff" from permatex (which actually worked and fixed the leak)

 

So that was trash...

While I had the cover off and trans out I figured I'd replace the solenoids also, since I KNOW with my luck one would go out once all installed.

I also installed a trans pan drain plug. Again because I know my luck on this project.

 

I then went to Schrams in Waterford MI to pick up a new engine. They had everything from 5k miles to 145k miles. I landed on a 69k mile 3.8L from a 07GP for $600

Then I promptly voided the warranty:

and got everything back together!

 

A few things I like on the Series III:

The use of the aluminum oil pan - Mine was rusted through on the oil level sensor port.

The use of industrial RTV for an oil pan seal instead of plastic.

The use of metal intake gaskets - for obvious reasons.

The use of a metal water pump gasket - Because they finally learned paper + coolant = factory fail.

 

And after getting everything put back together, I learn that someone actually does make and sell metal coolant elbows!!! DOH!

http://www.wbodystore.com/gaskets-hardware/185-aluminum-coolant-elbows.html

And for an oddly reasonable price of $11? I was really expecting (and willing to pay) between $20 - $30?

 

I'll probably order a set of those sooner rather than later just to have on hand. I don't feel like messing with mine right now. They're still brand new, and already installed.

 

Hopefully on Christmas I can get the hole in my exhaust tunnel taken care of and maybe get the engine in and running!

 

But just wanted to put a bit of an update if anyone was curious for whatever reason!

 

-Tim

[Reride]

I admire your dedication to your project. Most people would have given up alot of dollars ago. This a swap I have in mind for when my 3.1 gives up the ghost. Like yourself I learned the hard way about checking the line-bore of a block as well as deck, cylinder bore, crank journal size, and to fit main bearings before assembly. I wish you luck as you continue the project and please keep all of us informed as it progresses.

Edited December 27, 2012 by Reride