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Catalytic Converter WTF


Bri-Guy-GA

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How in the hell to you get a new catalytic converter installed. I got the original one out after wrestling with the bolts at the manifolds, but now I don't see any way to get them back in. I was able to get the one on the passenger side in, but can't get enough pressure on the other side to get it started.

 

The new part is a magnaflow from Oreilly.

 

Suggestions?

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I don't understand why this would be a problem. I pull 'em out, they go right back in. 'Course, I always clean the threads and re-apply anti-sieze so there's no excessive thread friction.

 

Downtube cocked or misaligned? That's all I can think of.

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sometimes they can be a bitch, i find it helpful to have it bolted to the cat-back and line it up then have someone sit on the butt behind the car with there legs spread and push the whole thing with there feet toads the motor. works well for me,

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Make sure the side you do have on is only a couple threads in. That and make sure the old gasket is gone. Ive seen it before

 

There is a gasket? Its just a ball and socket fitting, there shouldn't be a gasket. I may try and put the other side in first and try again. They sure left a ton of room there to work didn't they, and those nice sharp edged heat shields are nice.

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Yep, there's a gasket, a big "donut" that fits on the manifold. The outlet itself is actually straight, the donut makes the "ball". Costs about 6 bucks. It's where the persistent exhaust leak on my car was, that no one seemed to be able to locate.

 

Worth replacing, even if the one you have looks good, just to prevent the possibility of leaks.

Edited by Galaxie500XL
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Maybe you can get at them better from the top if you rocked your engine. I personally havent messed with these particular springs but if they aren`t really stiff you might be able to compress them somehow temporarly with string or something till you get the bolts started in the threads.

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Maybe you can get at them better from the top if you rocked your engine. I personally havent messed with these particular springs but if they aren`t really stiff you might be able to compress them somehow temporarly with string or something till you get the bolts started in the threads.

Springs aren't long enough to interfere with getting the bolts started.

 

If you can't get your hand in from underneath, use a universal socket on an extension. Wrap the universal with electrical tape if the joints aren't stiff enough to hold position.

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Success. Took out the cradle bolts and dropped the motor a few inches. Was just enough space to allow two hands in there to hold flange while starting bolts. Now to let all the cuts and srapes on my arms to heal.

 

Thanks guys.

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Got it all back together and now it is idling at around 2300. its usually around 1000. What would change the idle speed with replacing the catalytic converter and cleaning out the EGR passages?

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Unlikely...usually, high idle turns out to be a vacuum leak...sure the EGR gasket (which I assumed you replaced) is sealing well? Also, if it's an LQ1, don't forget there's a large vacuum hose on the back of the motor that you might have knocked loose while working on the car...

 

 

Got it all back together and now it is idling at around 2300. its usually around 1000. What would change the idle speed with replacing the catalytic converter and cleaning out the EGR passages?
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Got it all back together and now it is idling at around 2300. its usually around 1000. What would change the idle speed with replacing the catalytic converter and cleaning out the EGR passages?

A thousand-rpm idle is too high. 600--700 is more like it.

 

Have you run it long enough for the computer to re-learn the IAC position?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Replaced the throttle body gasket and checked the EGR again. Idles around 700 now and passed emissions with flying colors.

 

Thanks for the help. Now to replace the right axle shaft.

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