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I need help rear brake lights stop working but the hight mont works any solutions ?


capcrunk

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let me guess:

 

95-99 monte carlo

95-01 lumina

94-96 grand prix

94-97 cutlass supreme

94-96 regal

 

you have one of those? expect to buy a new turn signal switch.

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new turn signal switch, pretty long and tedious job, my brake lights would go out when ever I use my turn signals, but if I gave the turn signal lever a little jiggle I could get them to work,

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Sounds like a turn signal switch. Pretty common from what I have seen. I've changed them on every w body I have had. I've got it down good now. Only takes me about 30-45 mins to change them. The hardest part is getting the c clip back on.

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I was too cheap to replace it. I repaired mine.

 

Repaired my old one after putting a new switch in my Lumina, I could've put it back in but I'd already bought the new one... so now I have a spare laying around. Check this thread/link for a how-to. After doing it on both of my w-bodies now, I'll rate it as about a 2 beer job.

 

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/14924-How-to-replace-your-signal-switch

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just repaired the one in the 94 convertible over the weekend. I didn't have one of those lock plate compressors, so I tried to get it off without - which I managed to do, but there was no way I could get it back on without, so a lock plate compressor is mandatory. Fortunately, O'Reillys loans them out for free. Not too bad of a job if you have that, the clip holding the lock plate in is a PITA though.

 

I didn't realize the 94 is a different design than the one in the 89. They might be electrically compatible, but you can't rebend the contacts like you can on the older one. I cleaned it really well and even that wasn't enough to make it 100% functional, so I ended up having to fill the divots in the contacts with solder and build up the worn-down bumps on the spring-loaded contacts with solder. Solder being a soft metal, likely won't last all that long, but I hope it at least lasts till I get a new car.

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No, sorry, I forgot to mention that, but steering wheel puller is necessary too. Steering wheels are super tight and I don't think any amount of wiggling can get them off, and you shouldn't hammer the shaft for risk of damaging the column. Both airbag and non-airbag ones need a steering wheel puller. I had a cheap crappy identical to this one. It's crap, do not buy that style! The steering wheel on the 94 was soooo tight, it bent the puller itself and the bolt snapped. I got a new bolt, and it pulled the threads right out of the puller. So then I got a Lisle 45000 puller and it's sooo much better quality and works awesome. Pulled the wheel off the 94 with no issues. However, I didn't even have to buy it because the loaner lock plate compressor came in a kit with its own good quality wheel puller.

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Yeah, if you have the strength of Hercules, maybe. I needed both hands free to work the C-clip off the first groove it wants to fall into, while at the time pushing in on the lock plate, so I used the butt of a hammer with the head wrapped in cloth and pushed it with my shoulder. I could never get the lock plate in far enough to even see the 2nd groove, and that shaft also pushes in a bit and needs to be pulled out at the same time. Eventually, I got my wife to come and try to help me and we still couldn't ever get that 2nd groove visible. Then I got too weak and accidentally let up a little and the lock plate moved back out and popped that damn clip back into the 1st groove. Felt like we wasted 2hrs or so. Then I got the tool and got the job done in under 30-seconds.

 

So yeah, I wouldn't even attempt it without the tool unless you have super-human strength.

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