3.1 cutlass cutting out

[Garrett Powered]

sounds like a muffler explosion. and what you describe is surging.

 

this happens usually during voltage dips. well it did when my red tgp was surging. tuned that out last week. before I tuned that out in the 88 I would get stalls and the fuel pump would seize, not because it was bad but you could see it peter out when the voltage dipped.

 

I would start with replacing the main engine ground strap and when you tune it the fix will be more pronounced.

[gr8shot]

sounds like a muffler explosion. and what you describe is surging.

 

this happens usually during voltage dips. well it did when my red tgp was surging. tuned that out last week. before I tuned that out in the 88 I would get stalls and the fuel pump would seize, not because it was bad but you could see it peter out when the voltage dipped.

 

I would start with replacing the main engine ground strap and when you tune it the fix will be more pronounced.

 

I'm confused... what's a muffler explosion? The muffler is still doing its job just fine. I'm sure it hasn't exploded . And what do you mean you tuned it out? How would a person tune out a voltage drop?

 

Where's this ground strap at? Ill check it out and see if its in bad shape or anything.

 

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[Garrett Powered]

it's from running rich in limp mode usually. extra gas pools up in there and ignites.

 

between the transmission bolts and the body near the battery tray is where it should be. 6 gauge wire is what it usually is.

 

I learned it from some turbo tuning dudes on this forum. it gave me better gas mileage and power after doing it as well. but more importantly everything else on the car started working properly. its called a throttle follower curve in your tune which is telling your IAC what to do.

[gr8shot]

Well there won't be any tuning on this car. I have a duramax for that. This is just my cheap commuter that I pile the miles on. I just need to get it running right so it doesn't leave me stranded. There's been a few times I have been worried about making it home. But then the next day it'll run just fine.

 

I'll check the ground strap though and see what kind of shape it's in.

[Garrett Powered]

clean the bolts on it really good and it will help a lot too.

[jman093]

My guess is either a coil or the crank sensor/wiring. It it's jerking around that's more than just a misfire which to me pretty much eliminates the fuel system. At highway speeds that would at best be felt as a vibration or lack of power.

Edited September 27, 2012 by jman093

[gr8shot]

Bringing this back from the dead. The car had been running good this winter but has gotten progressively worse. Bought a coil and tried it in all three spots and it made zero difference.

 

Any new ideas? Have tried a brand new icm and now coil too. Neither have fixed this issue.

 

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[Pontiac6KSTEAWD]

You really need to OHM check your Injectors. Yours being a 96, I am not sure if it runs in patch fire or not.

 

On the older OBD1 cars, Batch fire is when 1 fuel injector fires, so do the other 2 in that bank. If 1 injector shorts out, all 3 of them in that bank short out.

 

Checking the fuel injectors is where I would start.

[gr8shot]

I can do that. I understand that they should read 13ohms if they're good, and 10ohms or less is bad?

 

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[Pontiac6KSTEAWD]

To be honest, I am not sure. Your car has the next generation of injectors (I think), so where they should OHM out, I don't have a clue. Maybe someone else can chime in.

 

I know on the older injectors, above 12.1 was good, 12.0 should be replaced, and 11.9 and lower was bad. You do want to have a consistency inbetween all injectors thou. Usually within .5 of each other on the extreme end.

[gr8shot]

I guess I'll see what they read tonight if I have time to test them. Where exactly do I probe to test them? I've never done it before.

 

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[Pontiac6KSTEAWD]

On each injector is a plug, unplug that plug, and there are 2 terminals on the injector. One test probe on each terminal.