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94 Grand Prix...Computer Bad?


Justin Webb

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Ok my car runs really bad when you put it in gear and give it gas..bogs down and just wants to almost die,but if i floor it it takes off after abit.I have taken the car to see what the codes say,but it will not read from the computer.it says no siganl back from computer(or something like that).The guy at autozone tried with a paper clip to see if it would flash the codes but that didnt work as well.So is the computer on this car bad or is there another problem? 3.1

 

Bout ready to just junk this car and be done with it.changed plugs wires,had the cat converter checked.MAF sensor cleaned.O2 sensor replaced.New coil pack..alot of things.

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Well I would start by checking all of your fuses. what kind of tool are you using to pull codes. I wouldnt trunst autozone touching my car with anything.

Be patient and we can help the best we can. Hate to see a good car get junked.

Also check your auxillary post terminal on the driver side and see if it is tight. Check for corrosion in both underhood fuse boxes.

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Ok i did forget one thing..When it first started to do this i changed the fuel filter and it run perfect for one day.but now back to this again.I have not changed the fuel filter yet,but why would it get bad again if it has?

 

All fuses are fine.

Auxillary post terminal is tight and free of corrosion.

It just acts like it is not getting any gas when you first step on the gas.If you floor it runs good until you let off of it.

 

This car does have some carbon build up.My dad only drove this car like 2 miles a month.If that.mostly just sit in the garage.

Edited by Justin Webb
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My computer went bad and the car would drive for a little bit, but then it would act up, It would buck on acceleration, cruise up to about 30mph if you kept your foot off the brake and eventually it just didnt start after that. I think I was able to get up to highway speeds but it may have been misfiring. Got a new computer, swapped the EEPROM from my car over to it and it was perfect.

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most guys have EEPROM's now as mentioned. that way you can just keep reburning the chip. they come with EPROM's stock though so you may not be able to tune the idle and reflash without installing an Electronically Erasable PROM.

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Well seems the computer starting working again tonight..Well the service engine soon light came on.added some sea foam to the gas tank,and in a vacuum hose then the light came on..abit odd seeing as i could never get any codes from this car no matter had bad it ran.Taking it tomorrow to see what else is wrong with it.still runs bit rough and idle goes up and down so i am thinking maybe a bad TPS.but also when i put it into gear it dies right away.

 

Things i have replaced so far...

 

Spark plugs and wires

EGR value

map sensor

air filter

fuel filter

push start button because switch went bad

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thats right I dont think the paperclip trick works on the 94-95. Not on the W-bodies anyway. I have my tech1 scantool still so that is what I used. But advanced auto has a tool for GM and saturn of that era that can pull codes. pretty cheap

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Sometimes you're better off just letting a decent shop you trust diagnosing and fixing it. My 88 recently had some really bad running issues similar to yours. A day at the shop and a few hundred dollars later, haven't had a problem since.

 

Supposedly there were a few shorts and the prom ends were fried or something. Whatever, it works now! :lol:

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Sometimes you're better off just letting a decent shop you trust diagnosing and fixing it. My 88 recently had some really bad running issues similar to yours. A day at the shop and a few hundred dollars later, haven't had a problem since.

 

Supposedly there were a few shorts and the prom ends were fried or something. Whatever, it works now! :lol:

 

Ok back in the year 2000, we had a 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Siera.

 

It started going into "limp mode" So we took it to the dealer, they replaced the computer.....

 

Three days later it started going into limp mode again! Took it to the dealer and they replaced the computer again. Problem solved. It didn't throw any codes(OBD1)

 

Second computer was free since the first replacement had a warranty. So yeah you need a scan tool at the very least to determine a bad ECM.

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