Crazy K Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) Update: I walked outside and did my test. I have a bad passenger balljoint on the 95 CS sedan. I checked them last about 6000 miles ago and replaced the driver's side and got it aligned. This goes to show all of us that things can fail fast. Damn thing is really bad, but I had the foresite when doing major overhaul suspension work years ago to replace the rivets with bolts, but kept the factory balljoints in service. If I am going to do the ball joint... I might as well....... Edited June 19, 2012 by Crazy K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GtpKo Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 The thread started as a "guess what happened on the way home" kind of story. Unproductive insults flew, arguing. Blah. Back to reality with informational and pertinent advice. Moral of the story is lessons learned. I like how it turned out. Very bad ball joints are the reason I sold my 1990 GP SE for $400. Found on an inspection by a good friend of mine who is a mechanic. I drove it home carefully and parked it until sold. When I sold it I made it very clear to the buyer what shape it the b.j. were in. However. My 2000 GTP passed import inspection, which is the most thorough, then 2 years later blew out 2 brake lines on the road. Given the age of the cars, maybe we could use a preventative maintenance tips and tricks section or even a sticky somewhere that constructively addresses issues older cars face. Most of us aren't mechanics and aren't necessarily aware of everything to check for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 inspsection areas #1 and #2: trailing arm mounts rear strut towers i'm feeling quite content having changed my balljoints only a few weeks ago... the passenger side was quite sloppy and i'd hate to think of what would happen losing it at 55MPH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GtpKo Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E... for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off! Looks like doing your ball joints wasn't in your plans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Shaking the wheel up and down wont tell you if your balljoint is loose newbs. You gotta grab the wheel at roughly the 5 to 4 oclock position (assuming the tie rod is rearward mounted on your average fwd car) and pull and push. Prybar method is used in conjuction. Honestly at the cost of tie rods and balljoints off rockauto your silly not to replace them the moment you get a wbody, keep them greased and inspect once a year. And if yall dont agree with what i say, then F off. At least my wheels are always pointed in the correct direction and i dont have to worry aboot my wheels failing off (christ sakes, buy a torque wrench people!) Or my front end parts snapping. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 My beef with Slurpy is this: there are about 6 different ways he could post his critique. For Example: "Have you folks ever considered having the vehicle INSPECTED now and then?" Alternative: It would be a good idea for you guys to have your vehicles inspected every once in a while. There is NO EXCUSE for driving a vehicle that isn't road worth due to excessive wear. Alternative: Driving a vehicle with excessively worn parts is dangerous, not only to you but potentially to others on the road. Popping a ball joint is absolute proof that you've neglected your vehicle, and would be morally, ethically, and legally AT FAULT if you caused a collision. Alternative: I'm glad it worked out to where nobody was hurt, and nothing was damaged! No reason to be a prick about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 My beef with Slurpy is this: there are about 6 different ways he could post his critique. For Example: Alternative: It would be a good idea for you guys to have your vehicles inspected every once in a while. Alternative: Driving a vehicle with excessively worn parts is dangerous, not only to you but potentially to others on the road. Alternative: I'm glad it worked out to where nobody was hurt, and nothing was damaged! No reason to be a prick about it. Doing it my way got the point across better. More viewer participation. Eventual (if reluctant) acceptance. Couldn't have worked out better. NOT making a distinct and DIRECT point of dangerous conditions and attitudes is practically acceptance of those conditions and attitudes. I refuse to play politically-correct, everyones-a-winner,-let's-all-sing-by-the-campfire games when lives are at stake. Really, I figured I'd get more hate from my "children" comment. Well done, all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Really, I figured I'd get more hate from my "children" comment. Well, you do have us there. What are you, like 60 years old? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Well, you do have us there. What are you, like 60 years old? Frightfully close. Have you no respect for dyed hair? Let's just say that I bought my '92 Euro 3.4...in '92 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 My beef with Slurpy is this: there are about 6 different ways he could post his critique. For Example: Alternative: It would be a good idea for you guys to have your vehicles inspected every once in a while. Alternative: Driving a vehicle with excessively worn parts is dangerous, not only to you but potentially to others on the road. Alternative: I'm glad it worked out to where nobody was hurt, and nothing was damaged! No reason to be a prick about it. I didn't feel he was. you should hear how you sounded. kind of like a wannabe troll. plus you are off topic and this thread is not about how you feel about smurfy or whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted June 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) So... to contribute something on topic to this thread for once... I get my car back tomorrow. Total bill with Parts/Labor/Towing is gonna be $606... I should have asked for a cost breakdown, but I trust the shop and I will see the itemized list tomorrow. I trust them to not rip me off too badly. Could I have done the repair myself for much cheaper? Of course... but all things considered I am getting off easy on this one... I could have easily lost everything. Edited June 20, 2012 by Penglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) So... to contribute something on topic to this thread for once... I get my car back tomorrow. Total bill with Parts/Labor/Towing is gonna be $606... I should have asked for a cost breakdown, but I trust the shop and I will see the itemized list tomorrow. I trust them to not rip me off. Could I have done the repair myself for much cheaper? Of course... but all things considered I am getting off easy on this one... I could have easily lost everything. Holy dog shit...$606?! Break that down to the cent. Something doesn't seem right. I'm willing to bet the markup on the ball joints they used is outrageous. The worst part about the whole repair is drilling through the rivets. You could easily have saved $450, even buying the best ball joints available, and all the tools needed. Frightfully close. Have you no respect for dyed hair? Let's just say that I bought my '92 Euro 3.4...in '92 The friendly tone of this post changes my perception of you. Seriously. I concede the fight. Edited June 20, 2012 by tornado_735 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted June 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 You could easily have saved $450, even buying the best ball joints available, and all the tools needed. I am FULLY aware... I just want to put this experience behind me as quickly as possible and I was willing to pay a hefty premium to do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 The friendly tone of this post changes my perception of you. Seriously. I concede the fight. Awww, what the hell. Once can't hurt. Might even be fun. Kumbiya it is. Everyone ready? Here we go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Lulz 600 bucks. Sounds correct. Part, labor, alignment, and towing. For those of you viewing that dont wanna go through this, Mevotech balljoints on rockauto are abooot 15 bucks each. Shurkey, avoid the chinese comments, they are either made in Tiawan (way better steel forging than anyone these days) or India (appears they can make something decent). Moogs are garbage anymore and make in fuckin mexico. Worse yet, the hardware they come with are downright dangerous in our application. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted June 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Lulz 600 bucks. Sounds correct. Part, labor, alignment, and towing. That's what I thought too... I did not feel that was out of line for a shop quote for this job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Lulz 600 bucks. Sounds correct. Part, labor, alignment, and towing. For those of you viewing that dont wanna go through this, Mevotech balljoints on rockauto are abooot 15 bucks each. Shurkey, avoid the chinese comments, they are either made in Tiawan (way better steel forging than anyone these days) or India (appears they can make something decent). Moogs are garbage anymore and make in fuckin mexico. Worse yet, the hardware they come with are downright dangerous in our application. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2 this is the first I have heard that made in america means garbage. mexico is america not over seas. I used the hardware that came with it. why is it dangerous? the only dangerous parts I get are from over seas so why save comments aboot it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 mexico is america Since when?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 mexico is in north america. did you go to a communist school or some shit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 mexico is in north america. did you go to a communist school or some shit? Yeah, but when something says Made in America, it implies the United States of America.......... Also, what in the hell does communism have to do with anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Yeah, but when something says Made in America, it implies the United States of America.......... Also, what in the hell does communism have to do with anything? "Made in USA" is what stuff usually reads. Saying "Made in America" can be a misnomer. Anyone from ANY country in North, Central, or South America is technically an American. We in the USA call our selves Americans, but then... saying "United Statecian", "United American", "USAer", "Statiean" would sound kinda strange. Maybe we should actually be calling our selves "Statisticians" or maybe is was that phrase "Caucasians"? /on topic: I am currently "buying" Moog ball joints, or more technically.... I have several old ones that I warrantied out of lifetime receipts. One was badly damaged by a pot hole that also cracked the crosslace rim that was on it... and the others were well used and damaged during the force of removal. I have several Autozone Duralast ball joints as well, and some of them tend to be good except that they can be supplied by different suppliers. One supplier sucked so badly I changed it out because the zerk fitting could not be serviced with all the retaining bolts in place. One issue a member mentioned to me is that the retention bolts for their ball joint backed loose. IIRC the torque amount is a very low 13ft-lbs, I get around this issue by making sure to use lock tight on the hardware, and add split washers as necessary. I recommend that everyone do the same. As for the current balljoint I need to change, it was good when tested at thanksgiving. Time to watch and inspect them more often. Every oil change needs a grease service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 I had a similar scare to Nick's the day I finished high school. I had JUST cleared a busy intersection at rush hour when mine let go. I fought with bad ball joints for over a year after, but have found a good combo in TRW ball joints, secured with Grade 8 bolts and split washers, loctite'd in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 I think mine was due to being a cheap chinese replacement wheel bearing. IIRC, 4 of 5 studs just snapped off cruising down the highway at 70. And yes, all my lugs were torqued down. Last time I buy a cheap foreign part! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 CRAPPY parts--or any consumer goods--can come from ANYWHERE. It takes no effort to make junk. Junk happens every day, in every country, on every continent. If there are sentient beings on Mars, some of them are making junk and trying to get the rest of 'em to buy it. A person is LUCKY to get what they pay for, often they get much less than the asking price would suggest. That said, it is WRONG to support the Communist economy while our own economy is healthy, it's INSANE to support the Communists when our economy is in deep doo-doo. Of all the places that you could buy imported goods from--practically the whole world, depending on what you're buying--supporting Communist countries causes the most damage. China is the most hateful, reprehensible nation on Earth. So, sure, you're looking for quality products; but anything that is sourced from China or Viet Nam should be at the bottom of your "Acceptable" list. Not much comes in from Laos, North Korea, or Cuba; and with any luck it'll stay that way. "Crappy quality", and "crappy politics" are EACH valid reasons to avoid Communist-sourced products. Even a decent-quality Communist product should be avoided if practical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 I had a similar scare to Nick's the day I finished high school. I had JUST cleared a busy intersection at rush hour when mine let go. I fought with bad ball joints for over a year after, but have found a good combo in TRW ball joints, secured with Grade 8 bolts and split washers, loctite'd in place. I did forget to mention... that hardware store hardware i have used on my balljoints is always grade 8. I concur with this hadware configuration Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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