Psych0matt Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 So I've been struggling with the brakes on this for months now. THe rears were out almost all winter (and I drove on only fronts ), but a few months ago I replaced the rear calipers. Last week I replaced the rear pads and rotors. I'm still having issues with braking power/feel. I'm about to pull the fronts and take a look. The rear does most of the braking, right? I've bled everything a lot and made sure there was no air. I guess if the front pads/rotors look decent I'll bleed those just to make sure. Any other thoughts? It's better than it was after replacing everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 You have it backwards, front does most of the work. I've had a big improvement in getting a reman brake booster on my z34, but minimal in my old Euro. Make sure the front caliper slider pins are not siezed up and lubed properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 yeah, I didn't remember which way it was, but that makes sense now. I'll pull them off, if the pads/rotors are like the rears, theyre toast. I hate spending money on the piece of crap, but aside from stopping it drives just fine, so why not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) You have it backwards, front does most of the work. I've had a big improvement in getting a reman brake booster on my z34, but minimal in my old Euro. Make sure the front caliper slider pins are not siezed up and lubed properly. You beat me to it. I'd have said that the rear brakes/wheels mostly keep the rear bumper from dragging. Fronts do perhaps 70% of the work, rears maybe do 30%. Both of my Luminas ('92 and '93 Euro 3.4s) had piss-poor braking power; both fixed with new vacuum-operated boosters. No amount of pad/rotor/bleeding/cursing changed the poor braking performance. One of them had a rotted upper intake manifold-to-booster vacuum supply hose, but it wasn't so bad that the booster wasn't getting vacuum. Would be worth checking, though, and the hose is cheap. If your brake pedal is high and hard--it's not air in the system. If the fluid is more than two years old, though, it's worth it to bleed it until it runs clear (flush brake fluid) so as to remove any contamination. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/32510-Hard-brake-pedal-no-stopping-power? PS--do the park brakes work? The rear calipers are adjusted by using the park brake. Failure to set the park brake now and then means the rear calipers go out-of-adjustment. Edited June 2, 2012 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 70/30? I bet it's more like 90/10 On 1g W's anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) 70/30? I bet it's more like 90/10 On 1g W's anyways. 90/10 is correct. I felt a huge improvement on the 88 GP (that Buck now has) by replacing the rear calipers and power flushing the whole system until fresh fluid came out of each caliper. The old fluid was nearly black and I'm sure original... probably absorbed all kinds of moisture that lead to poor braking performance and feel. I'd actually say that's the best stopping first gen I've ever driven once I fixed up the brakes. Edited June 2, 2012 by Addicted To Boost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I know it's the best that I've driven! Though I don't remember much of the brakes in the 89. Light years ahead of the all 3 91's though LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 so would it be a good idea to completely bleed all the fluid from the rear brakes and put in fresh? I was going to try and bleed the fronts, but the bleeder screw snapped right off (most likely original) and I gave up. I need to replace the calipers/pads/rotors on the fronts soon, but I need the money first. If it keeps running as well as it has been though, may be worth doing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Yes. Get all of that old nasty fluid out of there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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