Jump to content

Eaton M90 chat, porting questions/advice


base93lumina

Recommended Posts

So, we keep getting in 3800S2-SC powered cars at the yard and it keeps getting me thinkin of snagging a spare blower and use it to port out. Now, i do have plans to get the 3.4" pulley for it at some time as well as ZZP 3" downpipe. But im wondering if porting the blower before doing those upgrades is even worth it or not. I also currently have an open cone filter on the car, and am in the makings of building a box for it.

 

I want to hear some voices of experience on this one :)

Edited by digitaloutsider
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, so do i bore out the inlet from the supercharger to match, or do i bore out the lower runners? I know its best to let a machine shop (like ZZP or Intense do the work) but i have found im pretty good with porting things. I just need to know which i need to port out. I have to do the lower intake gaskets at some point, so maybe i will just grab a spare blower (maybe just the casing) and lower manifold and punch them both out. Will i have any problems with knock doing this? I do also plan to run one heat range colder plugs too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should i do what this guy did, or did he get too carried away? Obviously im not putting an LS1 TB on the car, but would this be something to go along with? Also, does porting out the silencer slots help out as well?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you know theres been tons of debate on whehter it help or hinders.

theres a guy on another forum im on and hes documenting what happens BEFORE the ported blower, and then what happens AFTER the ported blower gets put on.

it might take him two weeks to put it on though.

either way, ill add his documented experience to this thread.

and i think hes stock too, so hes leaving the other variables alone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This will be a good point of referance make sure to link it when he is done. Porting is going to increase the efficiency of the blower where it will run cooler making the drop in pulley sizes safer on the engine

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know how you change the bearings in the bottom of the casing on the the M90 blowers? i picked up a spare for pretty cheap and i would like to change them out while i have it apart. Is there a special tool to remove and install them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from what i remember reading somewhere,

 

there are two holes inside the blower outlet near the bearings. you need to drill these until it goes thru to the bearings and then use a grease gun to pump the hole and force the bearings out. then the new ones need to be pressed in.

 

to me it sounds like it is easier and cheaper to find another blower. as if the new bearings arent put in right then your out the money of the bearings and still not 100%

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool. Well, getting them in and straight isnt the issue really for me. I can make a tool to put them in straight. Gettin them out was gonna be the hard part. So, i should see a couple of blind holes on the bottom of the case in the outlet. Doesnt seem too hard. Thanks for the info :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So i picked up a spare casing from the junkyard today off a 98 Park Ave Ultra. Wanted to have it for spare to port and have a lil fun with. My question is, does the inside of this case seem ruined? They dont feel any real different than the rest of the machine marks. A couple here and there may barely catch my finger nail, but thats about it. I guess my biggest question is, is this case safe to reuse?

 

100_6616.jpg

 

100_6618.jpg

 

100_6615.jpg

 

100_6617.jpg

 

100_6638.jpg

 

I know i keep posting alot of random threads, just trying to get back into the whole scene. Thanks for any input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Id say it would be fine to use as long as the rotors spin free. Mine didn't look much different then yours when I did the top swap. I actually did some light wet sanding with 1500 grit to take out the ridges and made it a lot smoother. I can post pics if ya would like before and after.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah that would be cool man, i want to see some pics :)

 

Surprisingly, the rotors that came out of this case, did not have hardly any scratches and the edges. The camera makes them look worse than they are. When you run your finger over them, they just feel like machine marks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Obviously i wouldnt port it so much that the rotors actually lift the air back out of the outlet, but i would be using the pics on Intenses' site and ZZP's site for reference. I want it to perform a lil more efficiently, without going crazy. I would also be doing the inlet side as well. I have ported some intake manifolds and a head, so this isnt something im affraid to do :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

do not sand down the inside of the case. to be honest i dont even recommend using a diff rotor pack in a different case. the rotors wear into the case and even through they look deep they match the rotors when at temp. if you sand them down, even a little then you wont have as good a seal. looks do not mater inside the case spend your time porting and sanding the inlet or outlet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, i do have plans to change the rotor case bearings as well. But, i guess that doesnt mean anything for the rotors in the case. However it does help keep them from sagging into the grooves more.

 

Now, im sure getting a different nose cone wont matter. The nose that was on this particular unit was in pretty sad shape. There is a 96 unit i pulled as well, but its still at the yard. I was going to grab the snout off that unit and use it on this one. I just need to get the case cleaned up and the bearings changed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, so what is so much better about the 98-03 superchargers than the 96-97 units? I know the early ones have the extra vacuum ports on them right next to the bypass valve, but other than that, is there any reason to steer clear of the 96-97 units?

 

Even Intense and ZZP say they do not want 96-97 cases for cores. So it makes me wonder why they say that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Merged all three of your threads as there was really no need for there to be more than one.

 

As you said, the 96-97's have different vacuum routing, and because of that, ZZP/Intense probably doesn't want to dick around with something they can only use on one model year.

 

AFAIK, the 96-97 blowers were hand ported, leading to some being more efficient than others. Not sure if that's 100% true or not.

 

Edit: Make that 4 threads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Isnt that just the blue dye that machinists use to do mill work on metal? If so, i know where to get that :)

 

yes. awesome stuff. just be quite aware that anything it touches will more or less permanently be that color.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the merge :)

 

So, on the 96-97 blowers, theres really no draw back to using one on the later engines? I mean, you can always plug the vacuum port that the later ones had cast out. Essentially, you wind up with the same idea and the 98-03 yes no?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...