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I thought I just fixed this Problem!


99RegalGS

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Yesterday I fixed my timing chain because my car would miss and backfire.

 

Well, today when I was driving back to school my car it ran great for about an hour then it started feeling like it was missing again. I could notice it when I went up hills when the torque converter was locked up.

 

WTF! :x

 

Any Ideas?

 

EDIT: I checked my SES codes and I only got code 63 for my cruise.

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pull your plugs out, or just 1 from each coil, plug the plugs into the wires, then "ground" them by having the tip of the plug touching a metal bolt or another surface. then turn the motor over, it wont start cuz no plugs are in, and see if the plug sparks. if so they are fine. if not/or a small spark, then you need new plugs, wires, coils, or ignition.

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I suggest that one night you look at the engine bay with the motor running and hood light off. Sometimes the coil towers will be cross-firing and you can't see it because of light.

 

If the plug wires are bad or damaged and arcing it is easier to see it this way also.

 

Have someone put it in gear and give it some gas with the brake on. This simulates putting the engine under load while driving which is when you say the problem occurs.

 

I've diagnosed many ignition problems this way-check it out.

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if it is arching you will hear and see it, whether it be light or not. the archs on my car were huge, and sit there clapping, like a REALLY loud ticking. but mine arched cuz of plugs being in the wrong place :oops:

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What you need is a spark tester, It sounds like you might have a bad plug wire, you can spray water on the plug wires and see if a arc appears from a wire. Have some one spray water on the wires while you or the other person power breaks it. It could be a weak ignintion module, or a bad coil or wires or a bad plug. Some models come with seperate ignition module, and coils. While the other module is one unit. It deffinently sounds like an ignition problem, good luck.

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Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will check out my car on thurs.

 

98GSMN: I have the 3 seperate coils as you can see from this picture.

 

car-eng-md.jpg

 

Notice that my car does not have the cross-braces. :x

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all V6 w-bodies should have 3 seperate coil packs. you should have the braces tho right? i think so, it looks like it. get throm from a j/y, theyll be cheap, then just paint them black.

 

btw i like the way the intake on that looks and the way that the plastic piece curves around it.

 

neato

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This weekend I checked out my coils, wires, spark plugs. They all came up fine.

 

My dad talked to the mechanic again and he now thinks it's the fuel filter.

 

From what I hear it's cheap and easy.

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Replacing fuel filter is simple.

 

Usually you just need a 19mm and 17mm open end wrenches but it might vary on your car model. Some uses a quick disconnect fitting which is more easier to remove.

 

What I do to change my fuel filter is to open the gas cap to relieve fuel pressure and then I use some rag and then start on removing the old fuel filter and put a new one.

 

Another proper way of replacing the fuel filter is to remove the gas cap and start the car and remove the fuel fuse and let the car run until it dies (lack of fuel due to the removal of the fuel fuse). Disconnect the positive battery terminal (to prevent possible short circuit while trying to work on fuel related work which might cause an explosion). Get some rag and then proceed on disconnecting the fuel filter and putting a new one. Put back the fuel fuse and connect the positive battery terminal and start the car while checking the fuel filter for any leaks.

 

 

I would go ahead and use a fuel pressure gauge. Usually cars has a shrader valve where you can connect a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure before starting and after starting to see if proper fuel pressure is being supplied.

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I would suggest again that you look at it running while dark out. The coils and shit can be within spec on the ohmmeter and still have an almost invisible crack on a tower. And you wouldn't necessarily hear the spark arcing either.

 

Good luck!

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Today I replaced my fuel filter. It wasn't a 10 minute job like I thought it would be. The filter nut was rusted to the fitting on the fuel line. It took and hour and my foot to get if off. The old filter was clogged, I could barly blow air though it.

 

BUT THAT WASN'T THE PROBLEM!! :x

 

I now am almost positive that is electrical.

 

I have a question for you guys. My temp gauge reads 140-150 degrees max. Even if I drive for 2.5 hrs. Would this be causing the problem?

 

I would suggest again that you look at it running while dark out. The coils and shit can be within spec on the ohmmeter and still have an almost invisible crack on a tower. And you wouldn't necessarily hear the spark arcing either.

 

I didn't have time to check it this weekend but I'll check next weekend.

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I don't think that would cause your problem. If your motor is running that temperature, I would suspect that it would run richer because the ECM would think its colder and give it more fuel.

 

The temp gauge could be off also.

 

The symptoms that you describe don't sound that way to me. It keeps telling me ignition related somewhere.

 

Just my opinion-good luck.

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what about your ICM. That is located under the coil packs. It can work properly and mess up intermittently. If it does so it needs to be replaced. Napa should be able to test it for you, unfortunately off of the car.

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