GnatGoSplat Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 Wife snapped yet another door handle on her 94 Cutlass vert. I replaced it with a crappy eBay aftermarket for $30. Installation went fine, adjusted the rod to where it would open without too much pulling since it wasn't opening in the same position as the previous handle (crappy aftermarket seems to have a lot less movement). Tested it many dozen times. Wife said it worked fine this morning, but then she went to the bank and it wouldn't open. She thought maybe it was the lock, so she unlocked it, still wouldn't open. She got in through the passenger side to try to open it, and said it won't open from inside either. She verified it was unlocked. Aaaaaugh! So yeah, now it won't open from either outside and inside! What would cause this? Other than putting the top down and removing the driver's seat so I can pull the door trim panel, is there anything clever I can try? This car makes me want to cry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 The rod for the handle is probably keeping a little bit of tension on the latch, it'll work fine until you lock it. Then it mimics what happens when you try and pull on the door handle and unlock the door at the same time. Disconnect the handle rod and I guarantee you it will fully unlock. You'll have to adjust the handle so it opens later as you're pulling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 Thanks, I was afraid of that. I can't get to the rod with the door stuck shut like it is. I was having to put some force on the handle even after end of travel to get it to open when adjusted down just 2 threads, so may have to mod it to get as much travel out of it as an OEM handle. Stupid aftermarket crap! With any luck, maybe monkeying around with it a bit or warmer temperatures will make it work enough to open so I can adjust it. I dread the thought of having to waste an afternoon pulling the seat and trim panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 Our son pulled on ours really hard and really fast all the way out, and it finally just popped open. This was after about 100 attempts of trying everything else. I remember putting an 8 foot 2X4 between the door and car so NO ONE would shut it on me while I went to get my tools! We've replaced our handles so many times, I think it's a bad design. No matter how gentle my honey is on her side, or how rough I am on my side, they always break sooner or later...but we're down to about 10 minutes to remove & replace one Best of Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 (edited) On the part of the handle there is a little part that pivots as it makes contact with a lever and slides up and down this, usually everything is black except for this piece which is sometimes unpainted or slighty ionized/bronzish color. Anyways if you take to the edge off the part where it slides up and down the lever it wont dig into the metal as much and the handle will last a very long time. I figureed this out about 4 years ago and havent had a handle break since. A dremal tool works really good but sand paper works good to. I`d also replace all those nuts that hold the handle to the rest of the door, self threading nuts i think they are called and wont cost much from a hardware store. Im really thinking about making a piece with a little roller inside it and that would be perfect for pillar mounted handles. My camera is FUBAR but if someone would like take a pic of the insides of the door, i`d add some arrows to clarify as best i can. Checked it out on car domain and im wishing i had a few grand for it, beautiful car. Edited April 14, 2012 by rich_e777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted April 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 I started working on it as soon as I got home from work. Fiddled with the lock and door handles, it was NOT gonna open. I removed all the upper trim panel screws that I could get to, and managed to pull the trim panel out enough to get my hand in there. I pulled on the door handle while feeling around for something moving, and I felt this round-ish cam thing moving, so I pushed on it while unlocking the door. Then pulled on the door handle and felt a flood of joy when the door opened. Sure glad I didn't have to pull the seat or completely remove the trim panel. I adjusted the linkage down 2 turns. I tried a 3rd turn, but it wouldn't open at all. 2-turns and it was opening at the very end of travel. I was afraid when the weather got cold, it might not open. I compared the handle to the originals. The OEM ones all can extend 2" at the top while this aftermarket one could only extend 1" at full travel. I couldn't figure out why, till I noticed that pivoting bronze-colored anodized part was getting hung up on a rough spot on the metal. Exactly what I think you were talking about, Rich. I didn't take the edge off the part, instead, I greased it. Now the door handle can extend fully. I could feel a bit more resistance when it would hit that rough spot at first, but I think the grease worked as it started smoothing out after exercising it a bit. Smoothing it out with a Dremel would have been a good idea, but I had got it all back together and I think the grease did the trick. Of course, that's not the end of the story. So I had it all back together, door handle working fine, still working after locking, unlocking, many times, and I'm satisfied life is good. Then I go to stick the key in the lock. AWWW, sheeyit! The key won't go in. Jammed. Turns out, the mechanism had shifted inside because the cap was loose on the lock cylinder. So I had to take it all apart again, pull the lock cylinder apart, and realign its innards. While removing the lock cylinder linkage, I guess I moved the lock rod too much because it popped completely loose from inside the door! The spewing of obscenities ensued, as I was sure I'd have to pull the trim panel off to get it back on - the trim panel I'd just fully reinstalled. However, I had a lucky break, as I managed to get the rod back into place by guiding it with my finger. Good thing for skinny fingers! I've never had a simple door handle swap go so wrong, and I've done it at least half a dozen times in the past, but at least I got done just in time for dinner and don't have to waste my weekend on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 Nice work Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 Jeez. Any less luck/patience and I wouldn't blame you for ripping the door off the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted April 14, 2012 Report Share Posted April 14, 2012 It's so strange the trials we go through for these cars, doing things over and over keeping them going. I did the same crap on my '96 Cutlass before I got rid of it. I'd do it again, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Our driver's side door handle is now taost, so I have to hurry and replace it before I lose the passenger side at the same time. That would be something trying to figure out how to get into the car with both handles out of commission....what a nightmare! You did fantastic on your frustrating project, kinda make me wanna be more patient instead of throwing things and breaking stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.