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Auto lock/unlock


mchill07

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I was driving a friends 97 Cut Sup and noticed that the locks automatically

unlock whe put into park which my 93' does not do. I was wondering is there was a part I could

pull from a newer one and put into my 93' to have a the locks unlock automatically.

Edited by mchill07
typeo
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I was driving a friends 97 Cut Sup and noticed that the locks automatically

unlock whe put into park which my 93' does not do. I was wondering is there was a part I could

pull from a newer one and put into my 93' to have a the locks unlock automatically.

I don't know about automatic UN-locking, but the whole deal can be easily bypassed so the thing won't auto-lock and trap you inside.

 

http://hbassociates.us/automaticdoorlockfix.html

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I don't think 1997s unlock until the car is shut off.

 

As Robert said, it is part of the chime module and is not very difficult to install as I am using a full feature chime module from a 1995 Olds Cutlass in my 1991 Chevy S10 Blazer. The doors lock at 9MPH and unlock when I shut the truck off and even the turn signal chime is functional.

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My sister's old car has something funky where it would auto-lock the doors after you closed them... Which meant it was impossible NOT to lock your keys in the car if you were trying to let it warm up. I would advise against this for that reason alone.

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My sister's old car has something funky where it would auto-lock the doors after you closed them... Which meant it was impossible NOT to lock your keys in the car if you were trying to let it warm up. I would advise against this for that reason alone.

 

my father in laws sister's 1G GP sedan did this exact thing.

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So you can have auto-locking doors by literally just putting a new chime module in? I tried this with my 91 Cavalier but it just wouldnt work at all (chime and auto-lock wouldnt work)

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So you can have auto-locking doors by literally just putting a new chime module in? I tried this with my 91 Cavalier but it just wouldnt work at all (chime and auto-lock wouldnt work)

 

You have to wire in the auto-locks...Didn't later Cavis have them? Chime module may have been bad though if the chime part didn't work. The key-in-ignition and headlights on were plug and play in my Blazer.

 

I looked in my service manual, apparently 1997s did have unlock-in-park and to disable the auto-locks, you pull fuse #7 instead of having to go through disconnecting the module.

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The car came with the ability to auto lock whenever the transmission is moved

from park after the initial start-up. It wasn't until maybe 95' that they added the feature

that the doors unlock automatically when shifted back into park.

I want this for my 93' as you need to "remember" to unlock the doors manually

which is very annoying. There has to be a part that could be swapped

or some type of mod for this to work

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I'm pretty sure auto-locking doors were invented by Satan himself.

Auto-unlocking is an idea I could maybe get behind... but the auto-locking part is pure evil.

I couldn't have said it better.

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The car came with the ability to auto lock whenever the transmission is moved

from park after the initial start-up. It wasn't until maybe 95' that they added the feature

that the doors unlock automatically when shifted back into park.

I want this for my 93' as you need to "remember" to unlock the doors manually

which is very annoying. There has to be a part that could be swapped

or some type of mod for this to work

 

I'll have a look through my service manuals. I have a 1994 (unlocks at shut-off) and 1997 manuals.

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It depends on the car and year.

For my 2000 Olds Intrigue, with a Tech2 (GM scanner), I can change the auto-lock and auto-unlock functions. I can also change the confirmation/non-confirmation (lights and/or horn) for many of the factory remote buttons.

In fact, I did change all of the options to suit what *I* like. :)

 

So, depending on the car/year, the dealer, or maybe a local shop, may be able to change a number of options. My guess is ~$100 for a dealer or shop to do that?

 

FWIW, it's ~$1.1K for a "Chinese referb/what-ever" Tech2 scanner.

NOTE: Those "Chinese-versions" can not be repaired. They often have replacement boards inside!

NOTE#2: Again, any Tech2 scanner under ~$3K is very likely not an "official scanner/referb/used/etc" scanner. So, they may not last long. And, they are likely a very bad idea if they are used often.

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The auto-lock and unlock is programmable in my van without a Tech-2...:D

 

I think that the owners manual for my Olds may have some method for programming the auto-lock feature by using the key, lock buttons, swinging a dead rubber chicken around your head while saying some magical chant, etc. :)

 

I needed/wanted a Tech2 because I did an engine R&R in my Intrigue. So, I needed to do a CPS re-cal. I also changed the rack. So, I needed to do a steering wheel position sensor re-cal (my Intrigue has the stability control option).

 

Plus, it's proved to be very useful in finding/verifying a brand-new knock sensor that didn't work - ******* *******!!! Also, a bad vacuum leak because of the brake booster that went bad during the time of the engine R&R (many months - no rush :)).

 

And, the fuel pressure regulator just went. Arggg!

So, I was able to do a fuel trim reset with the Tech2, and see the long term trim value go from zero to -35% over and over. I shut off the car, went to get my fuel pressure gauge, and the fuel pressure regulator "got better". From looking at youtube videos, I guess when the fuel pressure regulator is going, it's not uncommon when the fuel pressure regulator to go from good-> bad -> good -> bad, etc.

 

After all of the money I just dumped into my Intrigue, I'm planning on keeping it another ~10 years (brand new factory engine, brand new factory tranny 2 years old, all new hubs, brake lines, MC, brakes, calipers, rotors, rack, alternator, steering pump, AC compressor, etc). :) So, I figured it made sense to get the Tech2 and not spend the ~$?200? for the garage to a a CPS re-cal, and then to have to pay for the steering wheel sensor re-cal during the alignment.

Plus, I now have a new toy! Actually, that's the best reason. :)

 

It's still cheaper than getting a new car - especially when you consider the insurance (I live in a large New England City - $$$ insurance rates!). Plus, I'm looking to get a plug-in hybrid for my next new car.

Edited by Cutlass350
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You have to wire in the auto-locks...Didn't later Cavis have them? Chime module may have been bad though if the chime part didn't work. The key-in-ignition and headlights on were plug and play in my Blazer.

 

I looked in my service manual, apparently 1997s did have unlock-in-park and to disable the auto-locks, you pull fuse #7 instead of having to go through disconnecting the module.

 

I was just referring to my Grand Prix, I'd like to have the auto locks in that if I could. Is it just as simple as replacing the module or is there more involved?

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Oh! Shows how much I know anymore. :lol:

 

Anyway, you can plug the module in but you will need to do some basic wiring. I will try to get the pinouts tomorrow when I get the manuals.

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Got the manual out and have narrowed it down between the chime module and the trans. shift indicator.....

So i'll go and pull one from a 95' or newer and see if that works!

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To install the newer chime module with full features, the pinouts are as follows 1994-97 are same or so says the FSM - Module itself is plug and play in most GMs:

 

A: PURPLE: to turn singal flasher (optional)

B: DARK GREEN: to VSS speedometer input

C: LIGHT BLUE: to PDL relay LOCK

D: ORANGE/BLACK: to transaxle range switch, leave unhooked as doors will them lock at 9-10MPH instead of when put in gear

E: BLACK: To PDL relay UNLOCK

F: Not used

 

Pic of module, usually located on passenger side up under the dash - on Oldsmobiles anyway.

post-1480-14368909289_thumb.jpg

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