How long do your axles last?

[brake]

I'm just curious how long they normally last you.

 

 

 

I have no idea the age of the ones currently in my car but I'm thinking of pulling them out and servicing them. No noise to speak of but I'd like to keep it that way

 

 

 

Any special tricks or curse words to use when removing 4T60-E axles?

[Psych0matt]

I'm just curious how long they normally last you.

 

A couple hundred thousand miles?

[brake]

Really? Haven't had a bad CV joint?

[jman093]

No reason they won't last the life of car.

[ricklovin93]

they usually last for a while unless in my situation you blow a ball joint and the cv joint fucks itself up

[RobertISaar]

yeah, unless you push significant levels of power through them, usually something else dieing (and putting abnormal load on them) is the only thing that effects them.

[GTP091]

The only time I've seen CV joints go bad is when the boot rips and contamination gets in. Dirt and moisture ruin them quick if they're older. You might want to check the boots and if they're dry and not showing cracking you should be good. A common giveaway they're on the way out is they usually make a clacking sound when making a sharp slow turn that you can feel in the wheel.

[Cutlass350]

Any special tricks or curse words to use when removing 4T60-E axles?

 

100% new from the factory should last at least 100K miles. I'd say ~150K miles or ~15 years. Time also has an effect.

However, I'd guess that the POS replacements last ~50K /~7 years.

 

As for the correct way to remove/install half-shafts, that's something different.

 

The correct way to remove a half-shaft is with a CV/half-shaft removal claw.

But, hey, ignore what *I* say. Listen to what GM and EVERY manufacture says.

 

To me, it seems foolish to even risk damage because I didn't want to use/buy an ~$45 part. So, I use a half-shaft claw on the end of a puller. Many Autozones have them as free rentals - at least the puller if not also the half-shaft claw.

Just "yanking the ******* out" of the half-shaft to remove it will stress the boot, and may damage the CV joint.

 

Below is what I use.

NOTE: You may have to grind down one/both sides of the claw/adapter a little depending on the car.

OTC 7507 CV Joint Fork Removing Adapter

Price: $44.60

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7507-Joint-Removing-Adapter/dp/B0002SRFLC

 

 

 

Good Luck!

[AL]

I also put a pry bar on the axle and pried against the trans and they pop right out... Getting the right angle on them takes some time though

[White93z34]

The driver side one on my bonneville has 210,000 miles on it. The regal digitaloutsider sold had its oem axles at 25x,000 miles. So long as the boots are kept on they should have a long life. Granted they can wear, check for excessive play by grabbing the shaft and trying to twist it in the boot, if it seems to have wild play it should probably be replaced. Some play is normal. Hell some of the aftermaket ones are worse then oem.

[AL]

259k miles on the originals... Damn, itll be 260k at least in a week

[White93z34]

I think all we ever did to them was replace a busted boot once upon a time.

[19Cutlass94]

Ive got more axles here than my car will see in 20 lifetimes!

 

Biggest cause of axle failure is a ripped/torn boot where all the grease escapes and the joint locks up.

[White93z34]

Same here. I have more 4t60 / 4t60e axles then I should ever need.

[AWeb80]

Yeah, they just pop right out w/ a pry bar. 135k on mine...and I'm not easy on the car

[Red Nightmare]

As they said - if the boots are in good shape or at least not torn, the axles are fine.

Not really sure what could be done to prolong the life of the boots - axles are not really parts that require maintenance.

I heard road salt is hard on them so try not to let that sit on them too long

Honestly though - if they are NOT going bad, do not pull them out. Maybe it is just me but any car I have had to deal with the axles, it is a pain in the ass. Have not done it on a W body though.

 

Well basically if it isn't broke, don't fix it. Unless you are a glutton for punishment

 

And yes, bad axles make an unmistakable clicking noise during turns. Rhythmic clicking. You have heard it before i am sure.

 

For curse words to use during the procedure in some of the more fun axles (or any job) like say a 1999 toyota camry or 1981 K car, you could say things like - "Jesus shitting fire!" or "Son of a taint sniffing whore!" or even "Sodomize Princess Diana with a horse cock!"

 

Umm, some 60 year old woman I know from another web venue taught me the "Jesus shitting fire" expression. She is not a sweet ol lady.

[brake]

wow, I am an avid user of filthy words and offensive phrases but even "Jesus shitting fire" is a new one to me. I enjoy using "sweet evil jesus" from time to time.

 

 

I think I may have an axle seal leaking on one side. Not fun, but it's not leaking too badly....more of a seepage. How miserable are the seals to R&R?

[Red Nightmare]

Replacing the seals?

You mean on the transmission where the axles fit in? I have no clue how hard they are to reach but basically it is like this -

you would use a chisel to carefully work out the old one (try not to nick the machined surface under the seal too badly)

and then the new ones - put some kind of a compound on them like maybe loctite (I think) and try to work in the new one evenly. Getting to it would be the hard part, if that is even a challenge in this case. Of course working under the car is always as fun as a root canal.

 

Replacing the boots on the halfshaft - Once it is out, it is not that hard to disassemble the shaft. Might look up the exact procedure but it isn't bad. You will probably need a vice to mount the shaft. What IS a pain is trying to get the stupid straps to the new boot securely fastened. Equally fun is trying not to get grease on the mating surface where the boot will sit on the CV housing.

[Red Nightmare]

Replacing the seals?

You mean on the transmission where the axles fit in? I have no clue how hard they are to reach but basically it is like this -

you would use a chisel to carefully work out the old one (try not to nick the machined surface under the seal too badly)

and then the new ones - put some kind of a compound on them like maybe loctite (I think) and try to work in the new one evenly. Getting to it would be the hard part, if that is even a challenge in this case. Of course working under the car is always as fun as a root canal.

 

Replacing the boots on the halfshaft - Once it is out, it is not that hard to disassemble the shaft. Might look up the exact procedure but it isn't bad. You will probably need a vice to mount the shaft. What IS a pain is trying to get the stupid straps to the new boot securely fastened. Equally fun is trying not to get grease on the mating surface where the boot will sit on the CV housing.

 

Honestly if you are THAT worried about the axles going bad, it would be more practical to replace than trying to rebuild. How much would you have to pay yourself to do this? Would it be worth your time and aggrivation?

[brake]

yes, the seal where the axle goes inside the transmission. it is weeping, i have tried cheering it up but it has not worked as of yet.

Edited March 20, 2012 by brake