casey46 Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 (edited) Hello All, I had the security issue motor wouldn't turn over,all pointed to VATS i have two keys, i tried resetting via on/off 3 x by 11/12 minutes no success,then i tested my keys they read with ohms on 20k=1.85 and other key 1.84..so not knowing much about a tester am i right to say the key that i would need is a #7..if so how would i say this number or what size resistor do i need?...Ok here is what i did i found the orange wire and unclipped it...i then had two seperate wires and stuck inside the plug (one on each side) so i took spare key and held the two wires one on each side of the resistor on the key....the light went away and the car started...now i let go of the wires on the key and the car still ran so we drove it home (it stopped running at a tire shop prior) now i get home with the car and shut it off....now i try to start it without the holding the spare key to the resistor and it starts up....seems just unplugging the orange wire fixed it..DOES THIS SOUND RIGHT?.......Any way i want to put a inline resistor in the wiring system so what size resistor would i need...like i said i tested on 20k ohms and it read 1.85 and on key chart i see #7 is 1870 is this right? how do i ask for this size resistor is it milliamp resistor 1870....Thanks but concerned about vehicle starting with orange wire unplugged i don't want my 17 yearold daughter broke down again....Oh and now my security light stays on will that be a problem?Or will it be a problem all together if i don't put resistor inline?...Thanks Edited February 26, 2012 by casey46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubsfan24 Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 This is a very common problem. This happened to my 96 Lumina and I kept cleaning the ignition switch until it got so bad that it would randomly not start all the time. It sounds like you have already visited this website: http://vats.likeabigdog.com/ but if you haven't it explains how to bypass the VATS. You will need to put a 1.87K ohm resistor between those two orange wires to emulate the key in the ignition which is not being properly read. As far as unplugging the orange wire all together I think that would result in the car starting but as you saw the security light would constantly be on. But just wire in a resistor and you should be good to go. Mine has been fine for the past 5 years after I did it. You probably wont be able to fine a 1.87k ohm resistor so you can get put together several resistors to add up to 1870 ohms . Basically any combinations of resistors to get to 1870 ohms will work. For example you can buy this resistor pack at radio shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062304 You can use the 1k ohm, 470 ohm, 150 ohm, another 150 ohm, and 100 ohm for 1870 ohms. This is just one example and could use any number of combinations to get to around 1870 plus or minus a couple percent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Nightmare Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 Two weeks ago I could have written this exact same post, except I do not have a daughter. I drive the car. I had the same problem and did the same thing - hotwired the spare key in to start the car. Well as soon as the car started, i took out the spare key and the car kept running. However, the security light stays on all the time when key is in ignition and on. According to something I read, if there is a failure reading the key when the engine is running, it knocks the VATS system offline. The VATS system sees this as a circuit failure instead of a theft attempt. That means your car is not protected but will start and run.... If your security light is always on, it is in failsafe mode. I have been driving my car like that for the past couple weeks. It never fails to start or anything. What caused the problem is supposedly the two wires in the ignition switch break. It is not likely that this car will leave you or your daughter stranded, however, I would not trust the thing on too long of trips until it is properly fixed. The bad news about all this is - even though it is not so harmful if the wires break when the engine is running, they are more likely to break when the key is turned, given the stress on the mechanism. If the engine is NOT running and there is a failure reading the key, the car thinks someone is trying to steal it. So long story short - the car will probably start every time at this point but you will have the light on and anyone who deems an old W body beater worthy of picking the ignition can steal it. In my car's case, they better air up the tires and refill the radiator first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silentkillzr Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 VATS is behind the kick panel usually, on fbodys at least. And you can bypass it with a paperclip, Had todo this on my buddys iroc when we v8' swapped it. After gutting the computer of course vats freaks out, and we took a paperclip, jumped the relay tapped it up and its worked every since Good luck on your journey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Nightmare Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 So where is this VATS module on a W body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted2bass Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 I did the same thing when I lost my keys for my Park Avenue. I had a spare key with no chip made, remote started the car then turned the new key on. Security light has been on solid ever since (I did end up pulling the bulb). Even though the battery went completly dead and I replaced it with a new one the car still started fine. So I would not worry about the car ever stranding you because the VATS system has shut itself down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Nightmare Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 Yeah with pulling the battery, I had to do that for some reason after all this (not related to VATS) but anyways, what if you actually wanted VATS to work say like if you fixed the wires in the ignition? Not that I plan on doing that anytime soon but curious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloChick Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 I bypassed my VATS numerous times thinking the resistance was off because it still wouldn't start. I made a thread a few months back and it was suggested that I should disconnect the wiring tota and start the car. Then it would read as a malfunction and bypass the VATS electronically. That did the trick. After about 8 years of issues.... It's finally "fixed". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted2bass Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Yeah with pulling the battery, I had to do that for some reason after all this (not related to VATS) but anyways, what if you actually wanted VATS to work say like if you fixed the wires in the ignition?Not that I plan on doing that anytime soon but curious You would probably need to take it to the dealer and have the MEMCAL flashed back to factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 if you wanted VATS working and the wiring going to the ignition cylinder is the problem, pull steering wheel to replace the ignition cylinder, get a key made for the new cylinder and make sure it is the correct resistance value for the module you already have installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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