base93lumina Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Okay, ive developed my first real problem with the 93 today. It seems the torque converter does not want to stay in lock-up, it just goes in and out of lock-up. Now, the car has 155k miles on it, and the motor looks to have been well maintained, save for the plugs and wires, so im thinkin the trans has the original fluid in it. IF i drop the pan, change the filter and put an additive in the system, do you guys think i will be able to solve the issue. Or will i be looking at a new TC? (God save me if i have to do that) I thought about a flush, but i have heard flushes can sometimes make the matters worse. I want to get some opinions on what i should do here. If there is any good additives, what would you all recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
base93lumina Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Does this sound like the TCC solenoid to anyone? and is it replaceable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Is there any certain circumstances that make it worse? I had an issue that felt like a TCC issue but mine was only under load going up hills. Ended up looking like it's not the TCC. So just because it seems like it is that, doesn't always mean that's the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
base93lumina Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 No load driving is when it does it. Wont do it up hill, or under load. ONLY when its ready for lockup. It kicks back and forth out of it. Now, if you engage the cruise control, it will do it once then stop. If your cruising and use your foot to maintain speed, it does it constantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 forget additives. do a pan drop and fluid change with quality fluids(I like valvoline maxlife which is dexron IV compliant and cheap in gallon jogs). repeat in 10,000 miles? also, I like transmission coolers. You should be able to get a cheap direct bolt on one from any 91-93 3.4 powered w-body at the junkyard, and some 3800 W cars of the same years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
base93lumina Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 yeah im thinkin, since i work at Napa, of getting one of those Hayden aftermarket coolers. I put on on my wife 95 GAGT and bypassed the stock cooler. Im prolly gonna do that to this car. As far as the TCC Solenoid goes, im gonna change that while im at it since its only $20, and doesnt seem too hard to get to. A friend was recommending that i change the TCC solenoid, drop the pan and do a fluid and filter change, fill it back up and then drop the pan and do a filter/fluid change again in 1000k or so miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 If it's a 4T60E, it's unfortunately a fairly common problem. The TCC apply piston sticks in the bore, particularly when the transmission is at normal operating temps. On mine, it worked perfectly when cold, but once transmission temps exceeded 175 degrees, the problem showed up. Had the transmission rebuilt, made sure they knew of the problem...it STILL would do this once temps got above about 190. The transmission shop had to rebuild it again..in fact, the second time around, they completely replaced the transmission. No further problems, it's been nearly a year now. HOWEVER, I also have seen a bad throttle position sensor do the same thing, causing the transmission to go in and out of lock. The only way I've found that problem is using a scantool, and driving around, watching what the computer thought the throttle position was...when it would go "dancing" all over the place, the TCC would go in and out of lock, thinking I was mashing the gas, when I wasn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
base93lumina Posted February 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 I'll prolly just change out both parts then. I already have the a new TCC Solenoid, was gonna change that out this weekend maybe. As far as the TPS goes...that would make sense too, as i appear to have a dead spot in the pedal off idle and what maybe a lil higher up in the throttle position. Like i said, when you engage the cruise control, the shuttering will stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3pt1lumina Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 I've also seen a bad brake switch cause this issue, but most commonly on a 4T60E it's the TCC. My white 97 Lumina had this when it got warm, my dad's brickyard Monte does this,both 4T60E's. Now, my 95 Century has the 3 spd and the TCC would engage, then get locked on and the car would stutter and stumble and wouldn't downshift. Replaced it and it's fine now. So I'd almost bet it's the TCC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTRCOOL Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 I'm having the same problem with my Black TGP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Before you start throwing money at the problem......get a scanner on the engine & do a *real time* scan of the TCC read-out. If the TCC is locking/unlocking while driving the car in a solid lock-up environment that will be displayed on the scanner screen. Also, if the O2 sensor is on it's way out (getting lazy) it can produce this same shuddering situation when the engine throttle is held in a light application. Back off the throttle or get into it hard and the shudder will disappear because the O2 swings to one end or the other end of the scale to try to alter the fuel mixture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 93 3.1 used the oldest style of 4T60E, where the brake switch actually phsically disconnects the TCC circuit, as opposed to the later style that just uses a brake switch signal that's sent to the PCM to tell it to disengage. so if you do run a scanner, keep in mind it will only show what the PCM is commanding, not necessarily what is actually happening. i had this issue on the 95, threw a few layers of duct tape on the brake pedal lever where it meets the switch(because i couldn't and still can't figure out how to adjust it), problem solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jprice90 Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 interesting, i have the same issue, and with the brake switch, mine actually doesss click. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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