deuce Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 ok so here we go I have a 1990 tgp 1. I am overboosting horribly I have tracked it down to the wastegate acuator but I was wondering what is more efficient the factory wastegate or a blow off valve 2. what is the best ways to get more performance out of it 3. I have the typical hard pedal I do not hear a pump coming on at all and the abs and brake light stay on all the time 4. my HUD and my speedo are reading differently and the are both wrong 5. I need hood louvers mine are all messed up this is a pretty decent little car any help would be much appreciated I didn't get much sleep last night trying to research these problems so any help would be just wonderful Quote
NTRCOOL Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 1.http://www.ebay.com/itm/T25-T28-GT28-Turbo-Internal-Wastegate-Actuator-Nissan-/160594790737?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2564320951 This should serve as a good (adjustable replacement) Wastegates are a must have for protecting your turbo. 2. Do some searching on this and TGPForums.com for performance Ideas. 3. If your Abs fuse in the dash and or the one under the hood (Drivers Side) is blown and keeps blowing best bet is that the Pm3 is dead or dieing. Best bet is to start looking in a junkyard for one of a related w body. or GMparts direct has them but are kinda high priced for people on a budget. There are threads about the PM3 you should search and find more what you are looking for. Or do what I do get use to the hard pedal. 4. as far as the cluster try to source out a 95 GP cluster to replace the TGP there again lots of threads on it for details. The hud I haven't personally had issues with mine are correct and are tested against police speed traps every once in a while. So double check with that or a GPS. 5. Good luck they are getting somewhat hard to find so hold on to yours and see about trying to repair them. keep n I on EBAY some times they pop up under jeep hood louvers (IDK why) Lastly Post some pics I'm sure everyone else would like to see What yours looks like. Quote
deuce Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Posted February 13, 2012 I just posted some pics to my album of my little beater Quote
deuce Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Posted February 14, 2012 k I checked all the fuses and now I just need to know if there are any things I can do to check to see if the pmIII is actually bad Quote
Addicted To Boost Posted February 14, 2012 Report Posted February 14, 2012 (edited) Your pump motor should run every 3-5 presses of the brake pedal. If it isn't running at all, check ALL the fuses in the brake fusebox by your battery and the ABS fuses in the glovebox fusebox. Still nothing? Check the pump relay that is mounted to the driver's side of the PMIII, it is toward the bottom and just clipped to the side. If everything checks out good, you have a bad pump motor and will have to start looking for a new PMIII assembly. You can find them used in junkyards on occasion, but there's no way of knowing their condition without testing them yourself... or you can find new ones for sale on ebay and a few other sources (search for PMIII on here and you will find LOTS of info and a few places to find them). However they are getting pretty hard to find and can get expensive quick. Good luck with your project, I sure do miss my old TGP! 4. as far as the cluster try to source out a 95 GP cluster to replace the TGP there again lots of threads on it for details. The hud I haven't personally had issues with mine are correct and are tested against police speed traps every once in a while. So double check with that or a GPS. A 95 cluster is not even close and will not work. If you feel the need to have accurate gauges, you can send the cluster to an electronics shop, or put in a 91-93 Grand Prix sport cluster. It looks the same, but you will lose your boost gauge. Usually the HUD is correct, however you have to have the correct size tires on your car for it to read correctly... The correct factory tire size for these is 245/50-16. Edited February 14, 2012 by Addicted To Boost Quote
Garrett Powered Posted February 14, 2012 Report Posted February 14, 2012 the best cluster is the one on tunerpro v.5. Quote
Garrett Powered Posted February 14, 2012 Report Posted February 14, 2012 ok so here we goI have a 1990 tgp 1. I am overboosting horribly I have tracked it down to the wastegate acuator but I was wondering what is more efficient the factory wastegate or a blow off valve -the operation in the TGP's $8F code is illustrated while datalogging and viewing the WG actuator graph. useful info can be viewed along with boost, map in volts and kPa or vacuum your choice of any 1 or all. set limits and stuff and tune the tables while you are in there. blow off valves are a good addition for turbo surge protection. the best are DSM gen 1 BOV's. 2. what is the best ways to get more performance out of it -new vacuum spider. 3. I have the typical hard pedal I do not hear a pump coming on at all and the abs and brake light stay on all the time -install new key wire and properly ground the unit. 4. my HUD and my speedo are reading differently and the are both wrong you need to tune your car with a atmel chip in your memcal 5. I need hood louvers mine are all messed up this is a pretty decent little car any help would be much appreciated I didn't get much sleep last night trying to research these problems so any help would be just wonderful Good luck man. I hope this helps. Quote
deuce Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Posted February 14, 2012 can you please stupid it down for me I have no Idea what the vacuum spiders are I am a total diesel guy Quote
Garrett Powered Posted February 14, 2012 Report Posted February 14, 2012 (edited) that's a GM part I don't have the number for right now. just the plastic lines that come out of the throttle body that all come together in a box if you call up a dealership parts department they should be able to look it up for you. ask for a vacuum harness. Edited February 14, 2012 by Garrett Powered Quote
NTRCOOL Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 On the cluster side of thing my bad for the wrong info I had heard that some where or the year is off sorry Quote
deuce Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Posted February 15, 2012 so I checked fuses and relays they all seem to be fine but I am not getting anything at the pump motor is there any other cheap way I can go to try and get proper brakes Quote
Addicted To Boost Posted February 16, 2012 Report Posted February 16, 2012 Your "cheap" options are- A. try to get a used PMIII from a junkyard (or post a wanted ad on here) OR B. Swap the whole brake system over to vacuum brakes... very time consuming though. Definitely not for the faint of heart. Quote
intern8tion9l Posted February 17, 2012 Report Posted February 17, 2012 a bov isn't going to help your overboosting, but a boost controller will. you can get manual ones cheap are you sure the hud is wrong? i think most people have problems with the cluster; i know mine is pretty messed up, but the hud is correct louvers come up for sale every now and then Quote
Garrett Powered Posted February 17, 2012 Report Posted February 17, 2012 the worst overboost situation I ever had was when the coupler to the charge pipe and TB got a big leak in it. I don't have a MBC but it was fixed after that. Quote
deuce Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Posted March 16, 2012 ok so now can anyone tell me if there is any way that my calipers not working in the rear of the car might be why I have a hard pedal on the brakes Quote
Addicted To Boost Posted March 17, 2012 Report Posted March 17, 2012 Put the rear of the car on jackstands, spin each wheel and step on the brakes? If your parking brake doesn't work though, there's a 95% chance that your rear calipers are seized and not working. Quote
deuce Posted March 17, 2012 Author Report Posted March 17, 2012 ok i know for sure that I have no parking brake and that at least one of my calipers is not functioning Quote
Ramblin Garage Posted March 17, 2012 Report Posted March 17, 2012 You may need to replace the caliper... have you checked the parking brake cable? may need to be tightened, attached, replaced etc Quote
Garrett Powered Posted March 17, 2012 Report Posted March 17, 2012 try some 94+ wbody calipers. and just forget about parking brake. always a pretty good option. Quote
Addicted To Boost Posted March 17, 2012 Report Posted March 17, 2012 Yeah, I'd replace both rear brake calipers then. As said, the 94+ rear caliper swap would be a good upgrade. Quote
deuce Posted March 18, 2012 Author Report Posted March 18, 2012 does anyone know how the calipers not working would effect my abs system Quote
Addicted To Boost Posted March 18, 2012 Report Posted March 18, 2012 It would make the car not want to stop well and make your front brakes work overtime. Think about it... even if your ABS was working, only your front brakes are working. It's not going to stop well. Quote
deuce Posted March 19, 2012 Author Report Posted March 19, 2012 ya I completely understand that I was just hoping that maybe the calipers not working may be the reason why my pedal is so darn hard to push Quote
AL Posted March 19, 2012 Report Posted March 19, 2012 I would say yes that is why your pedal is hard to push Quote
Addicted To Boost Posted March 19, 2012 Report Posted March 19, 2012 ya I completely understand that I was just hoping that maybe the calipers not working may be the reason why my pedal is so darn hard to push Quite possibly. If the PMIII is working properly, that's the next step that I would take. Quote
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