bg35765 Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 I usually don't drive my Regal in the winter, but a few weeks ago since it was so warm I took it out. After driving for about five minutes the engine started making a ticking noise. I searched this forum and found a post suggesting to use Rislone engine treatment. So I changed the oil and added a quart of that, but after a couple days of driving it still makes the ticking noise. The ticking doesn't start immediately upon starting -- it takes a few minutes. I saw a lot of posts about the supercharger coupler causing a rattling, and I figured with 170,000 miles that needed to be replaced anyway. So I went to do that, but discovered that it must have been done by the prior owner because the coupler looks perfect. One note: I had the lower intake gasket and supercharger gasket replaced in May. (Preventative maintenance -- it wasn't leaking that I was aware of.) I had only driven the car about 3,000 miles since. So it was on the oil change that was done when the intake gasket was replaced. I had monitored the oil level since the gasket was replaced and there were no signs of any leakage. Here is a video. The noise sounds louder in the video than it does in person. In fact the normal engine noise sounds a lot louder in the video as well. I guess it's just he microphone on my camera. I'm not planning to drive the car regularly for a month or two. So I could take a shot at fixing something myself before taking it to a shop. But I'm not sure what to try. Have any of you heard this noise before? (The noise starts at 1:30 on the video.) Thanks! [video=youtube_share;_n2D-yQhgG0] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass350 Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 I heard it best around 1:50-2:00 in the video. From what I heard, it sounds like a lifter? Is the noise coming from the top or bottom of the engine? It didn't sound like a bearing. If you had a Tech2 scanner (~$1,200 for a China mod/clone/referb/whatever), you could likely do an cylinder balance test (disable each cylinder one by one). I don't know what exactly each engine supports. Also, with the ticking sounding not too bad, I think that it's questionable that you would be able to accurately diagnose the bad cylinder/lifter. Yes, you always replace all of the lifters. But, a weak cylinder along with the tick would lead more towards a bad lifter. Be aware that lifters in OHV engines often "mushroom" and can sometimes be a massive pain to remove. You could also bring it to a dealer (not a local shop), and have them diagnose the problem. My guess is maybe ?$300? for the basic scan/testing. It's likely cheaper to just put in new lifters. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 It kinda sounds like an exhaust leak.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bg35765 Posted February 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 I heard it best around 1:50-2:00 in the video. From what I heard, it sounds like a lifter? Is the noise coming from the top or bottom of the engine? It didn't sound like a bearing. Thanks. That's what I was thinking, but I didn't want to put that idea in anyone's mind before they watched the video. It sounds like it's from the top of the engine to me, especially from inside the car. But my ears have played tricks on me before. It kinda sounds like an exhaust leak.. Hmmm...I hadn't thought of that. Does it make sense that the noise wouldn't be there for several minutes and then would start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 Nope thats a lifter.. i would put sea foam it and let it idle for 30 mins then change the oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3pt1lumina Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Just from my personal experience I will never use Rislone in any of my engines ever again. I was told by my cousin (who builds race car engines) to put some in. WRONG. I put it in my Chevelle , 305 2bbl with 82k on it, and it opened Pandora's box. That used to be a quiet running engine, now I have all sorts of noises and it developed an oil leak. It was in there maybe 50 miles then I changed the oil, but now I have a rod knock on start up. Not sure if that was a special scenario, but I'll NEVER use that stuff in any of my cars ever again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Yeah it kind of sounds like a lifter to me. My lifter(s) are noisy when the engine's cold, but it goes away after a couple of minutes of running. I've ran sea-foam through it but it didn't really help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Using additives (seafoam, Rislone, transmission fluid, etc) in the oil to try to quiet a noisy lifter is a chancy prospect at best, one I prefer not to take, because of the potential to create new problems. Most common cause of ticking lifters is either dirt at the check ball seat, a galled check ball seat, or a weak/broken lifter spring. What you're hoping by using the additives is that it's dirt in the lifter, preventing the check ball from completely sealing, which is causing the lifter to leak down...but usually, in my experience, by the time you get to the point of hearing the lifter, the damage is already done, and the only real fix is to replace the lifter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Using additives (seafoam, Rislone, transmission fluid, etc) in the oil to try to quiet a noisy lifter is a chancy prospect at best, one I prefer not to take, because of the potential to create new problems. Most common cause of ticking lifters is either dirt at the check ball seat, a galled check ball seat, or a weak/broken lifter spring. What you're hoping by using the additives is that it's dirt in the lifter, preventing the check ball from completely sealing, which is causing the lifter to leak down...but usually, in my experience, by the time you get to the point of hearing the lifter, the damage is already done, and the only real fix is to replace the lifter. X2 And do it fast before you start beating the cam lobe and wearing out the pushrod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) Xtreme: I realized after I walked away from the post that I had forgotten to mention that...you're exactly right. The "ticking" sound isn't actually the lifter per se, but the slack being taken out of the valvetrain as the lifter rises, due to the lifter being leaked down. In other words, the lifter is slamming into the slack at the pushrod over and over...eventually, something is going to give...whatever's weakest. X2 And do it fast before you start beating the cam lobe and wearing out the pushrod. Edited February 8, 2012 by Galaxie500XL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Xtreme: I realized after I walked away from the post that I had forgotten to mention that...you're exactly right. The "ticking" sound isn't actually the lifter per se, but the slack being taken out of the valvetrain due to the lifter being leaked down. In other words, the lifter is slamming into the slack at the pushrod over and over...eventually, something is going to give...whatever's weakest. Precisely. Ask me how I know. Actually, don't. I had a lifter get stuck and the ticking noise started. Its not just the pushrod that starts to give; its the lifter roller. Those things are only designed to take so much impact. Mine cracked and the cam lobe started beating it to death. Eventually, the crack on the roller opened up, the needle bearings fell out, and the cam lobe started getting shredded as it beat the roller flat against the lifter. The end result was a thrashed cam at 217k miles, after which the L67 was swapped in to keep my car running. Its good that you realized this. Just be aware that you can potentially have a very expensive problem on your hands if you prolong this repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 I say lifter as well. Use this as an excuse to upgrade your rockers while you are in there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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