Tabiji Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 I read the FAQ thread on the brakes. My Lumina has the "hard brake pedal" problem. I replaced the rotors and pads in front. Calipers, rotors, and pads in back. Power booster and vacuum hose. All to have the brakes the same, but now I also have a small coolant leak and brake lights that do not work anymore. The leak looks to be from that hose that is just above the master cylinder and goes to the engine. The engine side I think is leaking. I replaced the 'O' ring twice. As for the brake lights, they worked before I changed the power booster. I have tried the adjustment proceedure 6 or 8 times to no avail. My last adventure was to remove the brake light switch, but I could not get it out. I cannot seem to remove the wires or pull it down (i have removed the cotter pin) to remove it. Even if I did get it down, it does not seem to be room to removed it. That grey thing around the steering column is in the way and does not move much. I am going to call the Chevy repair shop on Tuesday to see if they can "fix" the brake lights unless someone has the magic bullet to fix it. Once fixed, I think I am going to sell it. BTW: Who came up with such a design? Man it sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 (edited) I read the FAQ thread on the brakes. This one? http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/32510-Hard-brake-pedal-no-stopping-power My Lumina has the "hard brake pedal" problem. I replaced the rotors and pads in front. Calipers, rotors, and pads in back. Power booster and vacuum hose. All to have the brakes the same, but now I also have a small coolant leak and brake lights that do not work anymore. The leak looks to be from that hose that is just above the master cylinder and goes to the engine. The engine side I think is leaking. I replaced the 'O' ring twice. The fitting it plugs into is a known high-failure item. Not especially expensive; but made from low-grade material. If they'd have made the thing from brass, it'd never die. If it's leaking at the O-ring, but the O-ring and the retainer clip is new...you need to replace the fitting it plugs into. It'll be a common item at either a stealership or at any NAPA, Carquest or other parts store. Probably in the Dorman "HELP" line. NAPA number BK 7304943 just the clip is NAPA number BK 7304947 As for the brake lights, they worked before I changed the power booster. I have tried the adjustment proceedure 6 or 8 times to no avail. My last adventure was to remove the brake light switch, but I could not get it out. I cannot seem to remove the wires or pull it down (i have removed the cotter pin) to remove it. Even if I did get it down, it does not seem to be room to removed it. That grey thing around the steering column is in the way and does not move much. Yup, the '92 brake light switch really sucks. The steering column comes out without too much work, and makes the job of getting to the brake switch significantly easier. I did manage to remove the switch to reset the adjustment without removing the column, though. My suggestion: Run the engine in an enclosed garage for five minutes first, so that you're dizzy as hell from carbon monoxide poisoning. That's what I did, and it worked for me. Edited January 2, 2012 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 I've always had an easy time with those brake lamp switches. get under the dash, with a hook-pick or 90* pick and you can pull the tab out with that, with it pulled press the brake pedal to the floor and then let off the tab and let the brake pedal back up and it should be fine, may have to repeat a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 Oh, yeah. DO YOU HAVE STRONG VACUUM at the booster check-valve? If you do, I bet you have a defective booster. If not, that's why your brake pedal is hard to push. Engine manifold vacuum must not be weak from tune-up or engine mechanical problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 Schurkey, you are the one that inspired me to take up replacing these boosters on my own cars, my 92' z34 stops amazing. I can engage ABS on dry pavement if I so desire. the 92' Euro 3.4 does not stop anywhere near as good, still what I'd call horrid early brakes, tried 3 different masters, a OE and a reman booster, new hoses, new rear calipers any idea why it performs so poorly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabiji Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 Yes, that thread. I went with removing the plenum. Are there adapters to check the vacuum at the booster? What is a "good" number? Just put a reman in. I hope I don't have to replace it again. I'll try a few more times on that switch. I have been doing what the Chilton manual says though. Press the brake, pull the tab, let the brake up and listen for 3 clicks, once up, release the tab. If that fails, I'll try the drop the steering column routine. I hope I did not break the brake light switch. I'll stop by NAPA for that fitting. Thanks for the part number, imposiable and awkward to explain. One hand fingers making a circle and the index finger of the other hand going in the circle. Espically with a lady at the parts counter. lol. Thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 I always pull the tab then press the pedal while still holding the tab out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 (edited) Schurkey, you are the one that inspired me to take up replacing these boosters on my own cars, my 92' z34 stops amazing. I can engage ABS on dry pavement if I so desire. Glad to hear you found the write-up useful. the 92' Euro 3.4 does not stop anywhere near as good, still what I'd call horrid early brakes, tried 3 different masters, a OE and a reman booster, new hoses, new rear calipers any idea why it performs so poorly? Don't discount the possibility that the pads are glazed; or just plain different coefficient of friction from the pads on the other car. My '93 stops better than the '92; which is almost disappointing since I spent real money on the brakes on the '92, but put the cheapest pads I could find on the '93. I don't know "why" the '93 stops better. Of the two cars, prior to the booster replacements, the '93 was WORSE than the '92. I have considered that since boosters can "partially" fail, there's no reason to think that a rebuild booster can't function at "95%" instead of the 100% level a person would expect. In short, it may be a matter of slightly-defective rebuilt boosters. You DO use the park brake often enough to keep the rear brakes adjusted...right??? Have you verified that the check valve will actually hold vacuum? Run engine at fast idle, shut engine off. Wait a minute or two. Pull check valve out of booster--you should hear massive sucking noise as check valve un-seals from booster grommet. Again, if the engine doesn't run right it won't develop proper vacuum, and that'll handicap the booster. If there's any problem with engine idle quality, START THERE FIRST. Yes, that thread. I went with removing the plenum. Are there adapters to check the vacuum at the booster? What is a "good" number? Plug a vacuum gauge with a big cone adapter into the hose after you remove it from the check valve. I'd expect more than 17" of vacuum at idle; but I've never actually tested mine. THEN verify that the vacuum is getting past the check valve by removing the valve from the rubber grommet at the booster, and suck on it. Should be able to easily draw through the check valve, but not be able to blow through it at all. I'll try a few more times on that switch. I wasted a lot of time on that thing. NOTHING would work with the switch in-place. As soon as I removed it I could see how it was supposed to work, and I could manipulate it into doing what was needed, before re-installation. I'll stop by NAPA for that fitting. Thanks for the part number Verify the number before you buy...that's what comes up for me when I checked napaonline.com but you'd do well to confirm it. I always pull the tab then press the pedal while still holding the tab out. Glad SOMEONE can make it work. I dicked with it for way too long, and never did have success until I pulled the damned thing OUT. Edited January 2, 2012 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Nightmare Posted January 2, 2012 Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 That coolant line adapter is a POS. I had to replace mine at one point. Pain in the ass to get the hose seated correctly and looking at the thing, it is amazing it holds any kind of coolant pressure at all. Might just buy tw of them in case that plastic piece breaks in the process of replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabiji Posted January 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 I am going to look into dropping the sterring column before I give up and take it to Chevy. Any hints before I tackle it? I can't find it in my Chiltons guide and the interweb is lacking as well. I found calipers for $40 each, so if the vacuum is good, those will be next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 I am going to look into dropping the sterring column before I give up and take it to Chevy. Any hints before I tackle it? I can't find it in my Chiltons guide and the interweb is lacking as well. I found calipers for $40 each, so if the vacuum is good, those will be next. If I remember correctly, there's two nuts at the under-dash bracket, two bolts at the firewall, and some multi-pin electrical connectors. I can't remember if there's a pinch bolt after you lift the cover plate at the firewall--kinda think there is. I'd be looking for a small cable and a spring clip to hold it to the column--again, faulty memory, but I think that exists. Would actuate the PRNDL indicator on the dash. Give me a day, I've got a spare column out in the garage I can photograph 'n' post...might jog my memory, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 Two bolts under dash, two bolts at firewall, one electrical connector. Don't worry about the long cable unless you want the column on your garage floor. If you're just moving it out of the way (but not far) the cable will flex and give you some working room. Again, I'm not sure if there's a tiny cable from instrument cluster to column to move the PRNDL needle. There isn't on mine--floor shift. I'm sure there's a pinch bolt that locks into this groove. Danged if I can remember for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tabiji Posted January 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 Thanks, yeah, there is a pinch "bolt" but I cannot get what it is pinching loose to get the column out. I did get the switch out, it is broken. Wonder that I did not blow a fuse. I bought one on e-bay just now and hope it gets here soon. Like a Garth Brooks song, blood and sweat and lots of french words. I can't figure out how it should work. Are there wiring diagrams around for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.