Anyone need a Subwoofer?

[xtremerevolution]

These are the adapters I need since i only have one set of RCA outputs on my headunit in order to run two amps, correct?

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-127

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-125

 

So from Parts Express this is what I have to be ordered as of right now.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]7134[/ATTACH]

 

Am I missing anything? Shipping is $15 estimate for FedEX Home Delivery, so it would be cheaper to just purchase another $13 for Free Ship and receive more product (Only if friend doesn't purchase with me, otherwise free ship).

 

Thanks

 

EDIT: In the Picture I need (2) one female to two male rca's if im not mistaken, I changed that in checkout and wiped the one male to two female rcas but will leave the picture the same. Updated Picture

 

Also added two terminal connections(comes as pair)

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=095-660

 

I hate using those kinds of terminals. Absolutely hate. Remember what I had recommended a few weeks ago? Buy these instead:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-GAUGE-COPPER-UN-INSULATED-3-8-RING-CRIMP-CONNECTOR-TERMINAL-QTY-5-/320818361409?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&vxp=mtr&hash=item4ab243b441#ht_2756wt_1163

 

Remove those #6 screws and get the #8 screws. I have both sizes, and the $6 screws are much too small for what you're trying to do.

 

Port looks good, carpet looks good, terminal looks good. What's the 5 feet of 8 gauge power wire for?

[Rick]

I hate using those kinds of terminals. Absolutely hate. Remember what I had recommended a few weeks ago? Buy these instead:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-GAUGE-COPPER-UN-INSULATED-3-8-RING-CRIMP-CONNECTOR-TERMINAL-QTY-5-/320818361409?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&vxp=mtr&hash=item4ab243b441#ht_2756wt_1163

 

Remove those #6 screws and get the #8 screws. I have both sizes, and the $6 screws are much too small for what you're trying to do.

 

Port looks good, carpet looks good, terminal looks good. What's the 5 feet of 8 gauge power wire for?

 

Aren't those terminals the same design? I thought they were at least, before buying those on eBay ill swing by O'Reillys auto part store and see if they have any still, thats where I got my last one for $00.63. The Solder idea seems solid, except we ended messing up with too little originally so it came out, tried too much second time and it didnt fit the cable it then had to drill it out and Dad decided it would be quicker and easier to crimp by slamming it with a hammer, which wouldn't come apart despite how hard I pulled so we would likely do that again.

 

For the solder idea you recommended did you put the 8 Gauge wire into the 4 Gauge terminal so there was room or was that just a misunderstanding? I want to say I purchased a 8 Gauge wire terminal so that would of been why it didnt fit because you said to use a 4 Gauge terminal for the 8 Gauge wire, hopefully you can follow what im asking there.

 

The 5 Feet of wire would be for running a ground and power to the second amplifier? I might be able to use excess from the last amplifier when I bought 12 ft of 8 Gauge wire, I would have to check my trunk first.

 

For the terminal ports you did say that a circle one would be easier to cut in the wood instead of a rectangular design didnt you?

[xtremerevolution]

Aren't those terminals the same design? I thought they were at least, before buying those on eBay ill swing by O'Reillys auto part store and see if they have any still, thats where I got my last one for $00.63. The Solder idea seems solid, except we ended messing up with too little originally so it came out, tried too much second time and it didnt fit the cable it then had to drill it out and Dad decided it would be quicker and easier to crimp by slamming it with a hammer, which wouldn't come apart despite how hard I pulled so we would likely do that again.

 

For the solder idea you recommended did you put the 8 Gauge wire into the 4 Gauge terminal so there was room or was that just a misunderstanding? I want to say I purchased a 8 Gauge wire terminal so that would of been why it didnt fit because you said to use a 4 Gauge terminal for the 8 Gauge wire, hopefully you can follow what im asking there.

 

The 5 Feet of wire would be for running a ground and power to the second amplifier? I might be able to use excess from the last amplifier when I bought 12 ft of 8 Gauge wire, I would have to check my trunk first.

 

For the terminal ports you did say that a circle one would be easier to cut in the wood instead of a rectangular design didnt you?

 

The terminals aren't the same design. One's open and one is closed. The solder idea is solid if you do it right. If the solder ever comes out, you heated it up way too much. You need to overfill the terminal with solder, insert the wire to the point where it won't really go in, then start heating up the terminal while keeping pressure on the wire to go in, but only light pressure. Once the solder melts, the wire will go into the terminal, and once you're all the way in, you ease off the heat and you let it cool.

 

The reason why its a superior method is because of the following:

 

1. its a completely sealed system. No chance of corrosion at the end of the wire or after the crimp.

2. its permanent. Crimps of this type can loosen up over time. I've hit mine with a hammer before too and I'm telling you from experience, they don't hold in the long run. They don't come apart immediately, but heat fluctuations will change that.

3. better power transfer. Simply put, its a more solid connection

 

I'm not exactly sure what wire you are using, what you bought, or what you will be using. You should be using the same gauge terminal as your wire. I did indeed say that the circle would be easier to cut than the square. The reason for this is that its very easy to draw a circle the exact same diameter as the terminal you cut, while cutting a template for a square terminal isn't as easy.

Edited January 4, 2012 by xtremerevolution

[xtremerevolution]

Here's what my crimps look like for reference, using the method I mentioned earlier.

 

[/img]

[Rick]

The terminals aren't the same design. One's open and one is closed. The solder idea is solid if you do it right. If the solder ever comes out, you heated it up way too much. You need to overfill the terminal with solder, insert the wire to the point where it won't really go in, then start heating up the terminal while keeping pressure on the wire to go in, but only light pressure. Once the solder melts, the wire will go into the terminal, and once you're all the way in, you ease off the heat and you let it cool.

 

The reason why its a superior method is because of the following:

 

1. its a completely sealed system. No chance of corrosion at the end of the wire or after the crimp.

2. its permanent. Crimps of this type can loosen up over time. I've hit mine with a hammer before too and I'm telling you from experience, they don't hold in the long run. They don't come apart immediately, but heat fluctuations will change that.

3. better power transfer. Simply put, its a more solid connection

 

I'm not exactly sure what wire you are using, what you bought, or what you will be using. You should be using the same gauge terminal as your wire. I did indeed say that the circle would be easier to cut than the square. The reason for this is that its very easy to draw a circle the exact same diameter as the terminal you cut, while cutting a template for a square terminal isn't as easy.

 

Alright, the issue probably was the fact the solder solidified when we tried putting the wire into the terminal because we removed the flame, next time I will make sure the flames applied the whole time its being pushed in. We also used a torch lighter, im not entirely sure how hot it gets but it is hot enough to liquefy the solder which I assume is good enough.

 

Also, for the RCA Y Adapters I posted, is that what I will need to run two amplifiers via RCA? Second question...the image below is the settings I can use for the amplifier...it gives me the option of either speakers, or a subwoofer. Which would I choose or how would I do this to make both work correctly?

 

 

I also have SOME fiberglass insulation from a old computer subwoofer that has dual 8" woofers, im not sure if that would be enough though. Ill ask my dad if there is any extra around the garage or attic.

 

Lastly, should I still go with these dimensions you gave me?

 

Ok, got a box model ready for the T400 Single 4 Ohm VC.

 

You'll need 2 cubic feet gross internal volume using 3/4" MDF. I would recommend a double thick front baffle, but its not absolutely necessary. Use one 4" round port at 17" in length. This is the port you'll need:

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=268-352

 

One set of dimensions you can use for this size is 16" height x 20" width x 16" depth. This tunes the box to around 30-31hz.

 

I would very highly recommend that you line the walls with fiberglass or mineral wool material as described a few posts back. If you need box carpeting, order that at this time from partsexpress, as well as a terminal cup. Let me know if you need recommendations on exact parts.

 

By access I mean can you get it readily. Home depot and lowe's both have it but it may only be found in large packages of way more than you'll need. Some people have extra lying around from past jobs. You don't want the hard foam board material either, as a lot of that is closed cell foam that won't work.

 

To double check, the box will be 16"x20"x16". I would need a single sheet of 4ftx8ft MDF. I am making the purchase from PartsExpress tonight and am going to call my friend and see if he still wants to make the purchase or not. A single sheet of 4ftx8ft would be sufficient for 2 boxes wouldn't it, if he still wants to make the purchase? Even with a double thick front baffle? At least according to my calculations it would, but there would be nearly no room for error.

 

I assume the 12" cutout will be centered on the 16"x20" front? Do the locations of the terminal cup and port matter(obviously back side I assume, but centered, etc)? Where do these need to be located?

[xtremerevolution]

Alright, the issue probably was the fact the solder solidified when we tried putting the wire into the terminal because we removed the flame, next time I will make sure the flames applied the whole time its being pushed in. We also used a torch lighter, im not entirely sure how hot it gets but it is hot enough to liquefy the solder which I assume is good enough.

 

Also, for the RCA Y Adapters I posted, is that what I will need to run two amplifiers via RCA? Second question...the image below is the settings I can use for the amplifier...it gives me the option of either speakers, or a subwoofer. Which would I choose or how would I do this to make both work correctly?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]7135[/ATTACH]

 

I also have SOME fiberglass insulation from a old computer subwoofer that has dual 8" woofers, im not sure if that would be enough though. Ill ask my dad if there is any extra around the garage or attic.

 

Lastly, should I still go with these dimensions you gave me?

 

 

 

To double check, the box will be 16"x20"x16". I would need a single sheet of 4ftx8ft MDF. I am making the purchase from PartsExpress tonight and am going to call my friend and see if he still wants to make the purchase or not. A single sheet of 4ftx8ft would be sufficient for 2 boxes wouldn't it, if he still wants to make the purchase? Even with a double thick front baffle? At least according to my calculations it would, but there would be nearly no room for error.

 

I assume the 12" cutout will be centered on the 16"x20" front? Do the locations of the terminal cup and port matter(obviously back side I assume, but centered, etc)? Where do these need to be located?

 

Yeah, the torch needs to be on the terminal while you push the wire in.

 

Those RCA y adapters look good. One female input, two male outputs.

 

You sure that's your amplifier menu? Looks more like a head unit menu. If its a head unit menu, you use the full range version. It should automatically send all bass signals to the subwoofer as well.

 

I haven't figured out a cutsheet for this. A single sheet *might* be enough. You'd have to figure it all out. I usually make the front and rear panels full height and width, make the top full and bottom width, and make the side panels 1.5" less width and 1.5" less height. I hope that makes sense. Your sub box panels should look like this speaker once its done:

 

 

You'd need enough fiberglass to cover the entire rear wall at a minimum. Its not *absolutely* necessary, but the bottom end might be a tad bit too heavy without it. You can try using it without the fiberglass if you can't get your hands on any immediately and add some later. The box specs I gave you earlier are still good.

[Rick]

Yeah, the torch needs to be on the terminal while you push the wire in.

 

Those RCA y adapters look good. One female input, two male outputs.

 

You sure that's your amplifier menu? Looks more like a head unit menu. If its a head unit menu, you use the full range version. It should automatically send all bass signals to the subwoofer as well.

 

I haven't figured out a cutsheet for this. A single sheet *might* be enough. You'd have to figure it all out. I usually make the front and rear panels full height and width, make the top full and bottom width, and make the side panels 1.5" less width and 1.5" less height. I hope that makes sense. Your sub box panels should look like this speaker once its done:

 

You'd need enough fiberglass to cover the entire rear wall at a minimum. Its not *absolutely* necessary, but the bottom end might be a tad bit too heavy without it. You can try using it without the fiberglass if you can't get your hands on any immediately and add some later. The box specs I gave you earlier are still good.

 

My bad, I meant it was the head unit menu. As for the cut-sheet, a 48" x 96" would allow for (4) 20" long cuts that take 16" out of the 48". The remaining 32" would allow for an additional (4) 20" wide and 16" tall cuts. 16" remaining on the bottom would then allow for a max of (6) 16"x16" cuts. There would also be an excess of 16" on the first 32" which could also be another (2) 16"x16" pieces. As you said, leave 1.5" out on both ways for the side panels so that leaves a little more leeway in error. For two boxes though only (8) 16"x20" pieces would be needed followed by (6) 16"x16" pieces.

 

So essentially you're saying the face of the subwoofer enclosure will be 16" high by 20" wide, along with the back side and top and bottom. But the sides that are 16"x16" will actually be 14.5"x14.5" to make a flush install? Just want to make sure I am understanding that right.

 

On the picture you posted, is that smaller hole above the larger one the ports location? Also, is a counter sink necessary for the subwoofer and port locations?

 

My friend isn't able to make the purchase where he is financially right now so I will be making the order, perhaps if this build is solid assuming I dont make any errors and the woofer is miraculously still available in a few weeks I could build a second box and try selling to regain the costs of the MDF. Or save it for a separate build later on.

 

When you have the time could you answer my question in the prior post about the location of the terminals and port? Thanks.

[xtremerevolution]

My bad, I meant it was the head unit menu. As for the cut-sheet, a 48" x 96" would allow for (4) 20" long cuts that take 16" out of the 48". The remaining 32" would allow for an additional (4) 20" wide and 16" tall cuts. 16" remaining on the bottom would then allow for a max of (6) 16"x16" cuts. There would also be an excess of 16" on the first 32" which could also be another (2) 16"x16" pieces. As you said, leave 1.5" out on both ways for the side panels so that leaves a little more leeway in error. For two boxes though only (8) 16"x20" pieces would be needed followed by (6) 16"x16" pieces.

 

So essentially you're saying the face of the subwoofer enclosure will be 16" high by 20" wide, along with the back side and top and bottom. But the sides that are 16"x16" will actually be 14.5"x14.5" to make a flush install? Just want to make sure I am understanding that right.

 

On the picture you posted, is that smaller hole above the larger one the ports location? Also, is a counter sink necessary for the subwoofer and port locations?

 

My friend isn't able to make the purchase where he is financially right now so I will be making the order, perhaps if this build is solid assuming I dont make any errors and the woofer is miraculously still available in a few weeks I could build a second box and try selling to regain the costs of the MDF. Or save it for a separate build later on.

 

When you have the time could you answer my question in the prior post about the location of the terminals and port? Thanks.

 

The speaker I listed above was posted for the purposes of showing you how to align the panels. All of the side and top panels go between the front and rear panels. I've seen some people make the top and bottom panels bigger and the front panel gets sandwiched between the top and bottom.

 

Glue on the front baffle last. That way you can test the subwoofer to see which way you can run the port so that it will fit. My guess is that if you mount the sub dead center, you should be able to run the port out the side toward the bottom rear corner without any clearance issues.

 

Terminal can be located anywhere. I put some on the side, you can put it on the rear; it really doesn't matter as long as its sealed well.

 

Your cut sheets will be:

 

3 x 20x16

2 x 20x14.5

2 x 14.5x14.5

 

Expect a hand saw or table saw to cut out 1/4" of material. If you're using a hand circular saw, make a guide for it when cutting so your cuts are precise.

[Rick]

The speaker I listed above was posted for the purposes of showing you how to align the panels. All of the side and top panels go between the front and rear panels. I've seen some people make the top and bottom panels bigger and the front panel gets sandwiched between the top and bottom.

 

Glue on the front baffle last. That way you can test the subwoofer to see which way you can run the port so that it will fit. My guess is that if you mount the sub dead center, you should be able to run the port out the side toward the bottom rear corner without any clearance issues.

 

Terminal can be located anywhere. I put some on the side, you can put it on the rear; it really doesn't matter as long as its sealed well.

 

Your cut sheets will be:

 

3 x 20x16

2 x 20x14.5

2 x 14.5x14.5

 

Expect a hand saw or table saw to cut out 1/4" of material. If you're using a hand circular saw, make a guide for it when cutting so your cuts are precise.

 

For the first bold selection, can you elaborate on that? What do you mean out the side toward the bottom rear corner? I guess I dont really get the port...Does it run from the front near the woofer to the rear of the box?

 

1/4"? Where did that value come from? Slightly confused right now..

 

Oh, and if im not mistaken...with a 760W Peak and a 820W Peak amplifier I will be running near a 100AMP Load(if my calculations are right)...is that worry for any sort of issues?

 

Thats also the reason im upgrading my power line, I was mistaken when I thought I had 4 Gauge running from the battery, I noticed this when I got the amp and everything hooked up, must of forgot to add that it turned out to be 12 Gauge wire approx, which I am very surprised it didn't blow any fuses or fry the line. I have 4 AWG OFC by JSC to be ordered, will be using that to cap myself above the $98 dollar mark for free shipping instead of ordering from knukoncepts like I planned.

Edited January 5, 2012 by Rick

[xtremerevolution]

For the first bold selection, can you elaborate on that? What do you mean out the side toward the bottom rear corner? I guess I dont really get the port...Does it run from the front near the woofer to the rear of the box?

 

1/4"? Where did that value come from? Slightly confused right now..

 

Oh, and if im not mistaken...with a 760W Peak and a 820W Peak amplifier I will be running near a 100AMP Load(if my calculations are right)...is that worry for any sort of issues?

 

Here's an example:

 

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/attachments/buy-sell/36954d1170352634-12-kicker-l5-ported-enclosure-kickerl5.jpg

 

1/4" is about how much a saw blade will eat up when you cut a board, for the purposes of making a cut sheet.

 

You won't have any problems with alternator load, and your front speakers will never be driven with that much power. All you need to be concerned about is RMS power.

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

[Rick]

Here's an example:

 

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/attachments/buy-sell/36954d1170352634-12-kicker-l5-ported-enclosure-kickerl5.jpg

 

1/4" is about how much a saw blade will eat up when you cut a board, for the purposes of making a cut sheet.

 

You won't have any problems with alternator load, and your front speakers will never be driven with that much power. All you need to be concerned about is RMS power.

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

 

Alright, that makes MUCH more sense. As for the 1/4" the blade will "eat up" does that mean when I dimension the board out I should add an additional 1/4" to two sides to account for what will be lost or just leave it at easy dimensions of flat numbers and the half inchs you posted.

 

Okay, does that mean I COULD get by with 8 AWG wire from the battery terminal or just go all the way to 4 AWG? Because the 12 AWG definitely has to go..

 

My front speakers have a RMS of 55W/ea, which is a total of 110W RMS. The woofer will be taking 400W RMS. 400+110=510W RMS. The average voltage should be between 13.8-14.4V while running which mean the AMP load should be between 34.722 and 36.95 if im not mistaken. Which is iffy for what I calculated, but far safer from the 12 Gauge running right now..im assuming you'll recommend the 4 AWG but figured I would ask your opinion anyways, so what do you think?

 

Thats good to know about the alternator..I see people at my school with the "flickering" of their lights all the time because of too high of a draw I assume.

 

EDIT: You suggested the 18" quick release bar clamp from Harbor Freight, this wouldnt work for the 20" width though would it?

Edited January 5, 2012 by Rick

[xtremerevolution]

Alright, that makes MUCH more sense. As for the 1/4" the blade will "eat up" does that mean when I dimension the board out I should add an additional 1/4" to two sides to account for what will be lost or just leave it at easy dimensions of flat numbers and the half inchs you posted.

 

Okay, does that mean I COULD get by with 8 AWG wire from the battery terminal or just go all the way to 4 AWG? Because the 12 AWG definitely has to go..

 

My front speakers have a RMS of 55W/ea, which is a total of 110W RMS. The woofer will be taking 400W RMS. 400+110=510W RMS. The average voltage should be between 13.8-14.4V while running which mean the AMP load should be between 34.722 and 36.95 if im not mistaken. Which is iffy for what I calculated, but far safer from the 12 Gauge running right now..im assuming you'll recommend the 4 AWG but figured I would ask your opinion anyways, so what do you think?

 

Thats good to know about the alternator..I see people at my school with the "flickering" of their lights all the time because of too high of a draw I assume.

 

EDIT: You suggested the 18" quick release bar clamp from Harbor Freight, this wouldnt work for the 20" width though would it?

 

Lets put it this way. If you had a 48" board and you wanted to cut 16" strips, you wouldn't be able to cut 3 16" pieces out of it because of the saw removes material when it cuts. Basically, factor that into your math.

 

Another thing to factor in when building a box is whether or not you want it to have built-in handles. According to the specs I just gave you, you'd end up with a box that looks like this (see the sides).

 

 

If you wanted to, you could make it how I always make it, extending the top, bottom, front, and rear panels about 1-1.5" so you'd have a ridge around the outside to grab the box from:

 

 

I would run a 4 gauge from the battery to the distribution block if you don't already have one. Then, you can run 8 gauge from the distribution block to each individual.

 

Your front speakers are rated for 55W RMS. RMS is an average power input, which is also a thermal power rating. Basically, that's how much power you could give it before the voice coil overheats and burns up. So long as its clean power, you can give it as much power as it takes to break it mechanically. You could probably give that 150W peaks all day long. Music power is about 1/5-1/10 that of a RMS power.

 

This is why there are people like myself who feed 500W subs with 1000W RMS in specifically built sub boxes and never destroy the subs. Its clean power. The moment you overdrive your amp into clipping, your go from 1/10 the power of a constant sine wave to 1/2 the power of a constant sine wave. There are a dozen articles on the internet about this topic. I have a set of components that are rated for 125W RMS each and I'm feeding them 170W RMS each. That said, the point of this is to demonstrate that your average power will be very low. The most power will be used for dynamic peaks, but you will rarely go above maybe 20W RMS on your components, and even that would be a pain full experience.

 

People who's lights flicker do so most commonly because they never bother to upgrade the wiring in their engine bay to support the higher load. The alternator can usually keep up, but wiring is often sub-par. Those that actually pull more power should look into upgraded alternators.

 

The clamp I mentioned would work fine, because you never clamp the length of the box. If you think about how the panels actually get clamped, the largest clamping length will be 16".

 

Here are some more pictures of a some speakers and sub boxes I've made that may help you:

 

This is a pretty tall speaker, but you'll notice that I never needed to use a clamp the length of the speaker...

[skitchin]

I can build boxes for people as I have all of the woodworking materials needed to make a perfect box, but chances are most people here won't want to pay what I'd charge to build a box and shipping.

 

How much we talking?

[xtremerevolution]

How much we talking?

 

$150 plus shipping for anything around and under 2 cubic feet with bracing (where needed) and a double thick recessed baffle. Precision routed, I don't use sawzalls or jigsaws. Design is free.

 

Breakdown: $20 for MDF (its $32 a sheet out here and a lot goes to scrap), $10 for misc parts (terminal, glue, screws, paper towels), $60 for labor, and $60 for my indirect costs. MDF doesn't get delivered, gas isn't free, and tools don't last forever. I guarantee my sub boxes for a lifetime against structural defects.

 

I can knock that to $125 each if at least 3 people need a box.

 

You'd be responsible for carpeting it however you'd like, as that's something anyone can do with some hot glue or adhesive spray, a utility knife, and pair of scissors, and you might want a different color to match your interior.

 

It probably sounds a bit high, but the last guy who had me building him a box called up a few audio shops in his area and got quoted anywhere from $450 to $600 for a ported box for two Sundown SA-12s. Average price I've seen is around $500. Feel free to call other shops in your area to check their prices on building custom boxes, not selling you prefabs that they pick up off ebay.

Edited January 6, 2012 by xtremerevolution

[alec_b]

I am so having you make me a box. Don't know when, but it's gonna happen.

[Rick]

Would bracing be mandatory on my build do you think, or would that be over my head and just keep it simple?

[xtremerevolution]

Would bracing be mandatory on my build do you think, or would that be over my head and just keep it simple?

 

If you build a double thick baffle, you won't need any bracing.

[Rick]

Alright, just a LAST check before placing the order, I ask could you please carefully look at it and tell me if im either missing anything or have something not needed or incorrect.

 

I measured the prior owners power cable at 19.5ft, he had a solid 3-4ft extra in the trunk to I knocked it down to 18.

 

Heres a image of the order, it is planned to be placed tonight when my Dad gets home since I got approval from the teacher to use the schools wood clamps just have to bring the boards in with materials etc.

 

Im getting the sheet of MDF either tonight or tomorrow. If you could confirm the cut sizes one more time that would be awesome

 

Just double checking since it cant be undone...

 

3 x 20x16

2 x 20x14.5

2 x 14.5x14.5

 

 

 

Edited January 10, 2012 by Rick

[xtremerevolution]

I'd get 1" screws instead of 3/4, since the sub itself will use some depth. With MDF, you'll want as much grip as possible.

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=081-425

 

Otherwise, looks like you're all set, and the dimensions I gave you for MDF are correct.

[Rick]

I'd get 1" screws instead of 3/4, since the sub itself will use some depth. With MDF, you'll want as much grip as possible.

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=081-425

 

Otherwise, looks like you're all set, and the dimensions I gave you for MDF are correct.

 

Alright, fixed the screws.

 

While I am at lowes getting the MDF, I should also pick up wood glue and silicone caulk, correct? Anything else?

[xtremerevolution]

Alright, fixed the screws.

 

While I am at lowes getting the MDF, I should also pick up wood glue and silicone caulk, correct? Anything else?

 

Don't need silicone if you glue it together correctly. Prefabbed boxes use silicone because they're just nailed or screwed together. Titebond II wood glue will work perfectly and will seal perfectly.

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

[Rick]

The parts arrived today, all in good condition no issues with shipping. Now im just waiting to see if a storm passes through or not before I start pulling the carpet up and running the power wire. Since all the parts are here should be getting the sheet of mdf tonight since my parents hopefully wont need the tahoe and can start the cutting process and glue it together during school in the woods class

 

Was going to post a pic of all the parts but my laptop isnt recognizing my sd cards anymore for some reason..

[xtremerevolution]

The parts arrived today, all in good condition no issues with shipping. Now im just waiting to see if a storm passes through or not before I start pulling the carpet up and running the power wire. Since all the parts are here should be getting the sheet of mdf tonight since my parents hopefully wont need the tahoe and can start the cutting process and glue it together during school in the woods class

 

Was going to post a pic of all the parts but my laptop isnt recognizing my sd cards anymore for some reason..

 

Just something to keep in mind. Home depot can make the cuts for you for very cheap or free, leaving you needing to only glue them together. Saves time, and their cuts are pretty precise.

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

[Rick]

Just something to keep in mind. Home depot can make the cuts for you for very cheap or free, leaving you needing to only glue them together. Saves time, and their cuts are pretty precise.

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

 

I would still need to make the cut for the port, sub hole, and terminal cup right? I will try calling Home Depot, Lowes fed me the line that they dont do personal cuts which is BS because they have for me before, I want to say its like 3 cuts are free then you pay after them but whoever was working when I called obviously didnt want to deal with it.

[xtremerevolution]

I would still need to make the cut for the port, sub hole, and terminal cup right? I will try calling Home Depot, Lowes fed me the line that they dont do personal cuts which is BS because they have for me before, I want to say its like 3 cuts are free then you pay after them but whoever was working when I called obviously didnt want to deal with it.

 

Yeah, you still have to make those cuts. I've always had bad experiences having Lowe's make my cuts. They've never been very accurate. Home Depot has made my cuts damn near perfect. If you explain to them that you're building a sub box and the panels need to be as precise as possible, I'm sure they'll be extra careful in cutting it.