Anyone need a Subwoofer?

[Gpfreak]

I have 4 10" IDQ's in my spair room in boxes (old, stamped steel frame style, no mag boot). I had idmaxes didnt care for them though. I DID however, like my infinity kappa perfect subs, and just bought 2 NOS NIB 12's! Using them in my mercedes. Do you remember the IDW woofer? very cool driver. I got tired of shows and competing after, like you said, flash and bling took over from true good sounding systems. Im not building this setup to compete, mainly building it for fun...

 

As for my midbass setup here is a list of the whole setup so far. I have all pieces in my possesion now, except sub amp (as im undecided on those so far)

Head Unit- Premier 880 PRS OR Alpine 9887 OR IVA D901 OR D310

Treble amp- RF power 800a4 (old funky triangle shaped amp)

Door sub amp: Diamond Audio D7401 (not the new garbage diamond crap. old made in usa Esoteric built amp.)

Door subs- Some older Focal 7" subs ive had from LONG ago...these will be the main subs, used daily. 6 12's shut off most the time

Components- T3 components (ordered them on blowout from PE as well..

Rear Mids- Mach 5 MLI's

Subs- obviously the 6 t3 t600s. Likely going ported, tuned to around 32 hz.

sub amps.. not sure here. would love suggestions.

All getting wired with Knu wire.

Battery- Yellow top that I have around. Kinetik 800 as my second battery.

Alt- I have a local shop thats done work for me in the past winding me a 250 amp alt.

Which software do you use? I have winisd of course and BBP6.

 

Anyhow- Music is a wide range from country to rock, to classical. HEAVILY leaning towards classic rock. no dance, house, rap, electronica, etc though.

Power will be around 12-1500 per PAIR of subs. box i want like i mentioned is ported, tuned to around 32 hz, slot ported.

 

Thoughts?

[xtremerevolution]

I have 4 10" IDQ's in my spair room in boxes (old, stamped steel frame style, no mag boot). I had idmaxes didnt care for them though. I DID however, like my infinity kappa perfect subs, and just bought 2 NOS NIB 12's! Using them in my mercedes. Do you remember the IDW woofer? very cool driver. I got tired of shows and competing after, like you said, flash and bling took over from true good sounding systems. Im not building this setup to compete, mainly building it for fun...

 

As for my midbass setup here is a list of the whole setup so far. I have all pieces in my possesion now, except sub amp (as im undecided on those so far)

Head Unit- Premier 880 PRS OR Alpine 9887 OR IVA D901 OR D310

Treble amp- RF power 800a4 (old funky triangle shaped amp)

Door sub amp: Diamond Audio D7401 (not the new garbage diamond crap. old made in usa Esoteric built amp.)

Door subs- Some older Focal 7" subs ive had from LONG ago...these will be the main subs, used daily. 6 12's shut off most the time

Components- T3 components (ordered them on blowout from PE as well..

Rear Mids- Mach 5 MLI's

Subs- obviously the 6 t3 t600s. Likely going ported, tuned to around 32 hz.

sub amps.. not sure here. would love suggestions.

All getting wired with Knu wire.

Battery- Yellow top that I have around. Kinetik 800 as my second battery.

Alt- I have a local shop thats done work for me in the past winding me a 250 amp alt.

Which software do you use? I have winisd of course and BBP6.

 

Anyhow- Music is a wide range from country to rock, to classical. HEAVILY leaning towards classic rock. no dance, house, rap, electronica, etc though.

Power will be around 12-1500 per PAIR of subs. box i want like i mentioned is ported, tuned to around 32 hz, slot ported.

 

Thoughts?

 

The stamped steel frame are the IDQ V2. The Arc Audio Arc series are actually the same sub with a stronger motor and slightly higher xmax. They've been noted to sound almost exactly the same. Having heard a variety of subs, here's how I'd describe the IDQ V2. The IDQs are like ballerinas. Very refined, very transparent, very smooth. A few of them together can hurt you. An IDMax is like a bouncer with feelings. He can sympathize with you when your girlfriend dumps you, but he can also kick your ass. The strength of the IDMax comes in its ability to play smooth and detailed at lower volumes and move a lot of air at higher volumes while remaining distortion free. Very high build quality, and the ability to re-cone in 15 mintues with a screwdriver is a plus. What I love about my IDMax10 most is that it sounds perfect in .9 cubic feet. For the amount of sound you get in nearly 4" of total excursion, that's pretty damn small, and I very much need my trunk space. Very few subs that dig that deep and get that loud work that well in such a small box. Keep in mind, the sub box is everything in how a sub sounds.

 

If you aren't doing anything with those IDQ10s, I'd love to take them off your hands. Those are amazing SQ drivers that hang with the likes of the Morel Ultimo, several times their price. They are incredibly musical, detailed, transparent, and make amazing bass with very little power. Again, they work amazingly in small boxes.

 

The IDW woofer was a very awesome driver. Its now very rare and sought after. They sell for nearly as much now as they did when they were new, as do the IDQ15 drivers.

 

Looks like you have some great midbass presence and you can probably cross these pretty low. I'm thinking 70-80hz as a crossover point? I'd tune these a bit lower to around 29hz.

 

The software I use is by Jeff Bagby.

 

http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/jbagby.html

 

The magic is in the baffle diffraction and boundary simulator. That's where I use measurements from a specific car to create a "cabin gain" response file, which I can then import into the woofer box and circuit designer to apply directly to the raw frequency response generated by the T/S parameters just as you would with WinISD. The advantage to doing it this way is huge; you simply can't apply cabin gain any other way, and being able to see a visual representation of what your car's transfer function does is monumental. Past that, the rest of the information in the woofer box and circuit designer spreadsheet is a more simplified view of what you'd see in WinISD. You can see it all by scrolling. Its much easier to use, and being able to export the images to show others is a big plus too.

 

I would consider round ports if I were you, simply for the fact that a round port is the perfect port. A slot port will have more surface area per volume of port than a round port will, which will require it to be larger to keep chuffing and port noise down. Using round ports also gives you the option to use much more effective flared port designs (aka aero ports), found here:

 

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?FTR=flared+port&search_type=main&WebPage_ID=3&searchFilter=flared+port&x=0&y=0

 

Available in 2, 3, 4, and 6" variants. Each individual part of the kit can be bought on madisound.com should you need an additional extension tube and coupler for a port larger than 17".

 

I'll work up a box model for you in a second. What car is this going into?

Edited December 27, 2011 by xtremerevolution

[xtremerevolution]

Did a bit of modeling with this sub. Definitely looks like a pretty idiot-proof sub. Its hard to make it bottom out in either ported or sealed alignments with 600W peaks. So long as you give it clean power, I would imagine you could easily give each of these over 800W-1000W and they'd smile right back at you asking for more. Definitely built like a tank with a total of 3" of mechanical excursion before bottoming out.

 

For a good music variety in a more SQ based install, run this at 1.25 cubic feet gross volume, 3/4" MDF, double thick baffle with the second baffle acting as a recess and reinforcement.

 

If you're low on amplifier power or like a bit more bottom end grunt for rap, hip-hop, and dubstep, go with 1.75 cubic feet gross, also using 3/4" MDF and a double thick baffle with a recess.

 

If you're very low on space, give this 1 cubic foot gross and cover the inner walls (all with the exception of the baffle) with 3.5" thick fiberglass insulation pad, either pink or yellow. Also use 3/4" MDF with a double thick baffle. The insulation looks like this:

 

 

or, you can use rigid fiberglass board such as Owens corning 703/705 that looks like this (if you can find it):

 

I wouldn't recommend a vented alignment unless you are a bass head and want some serious output and want to be heard from blocks away. Its a bit peaky in that regard, but if you're into that kind of thing, I can spec you a vented box as well.

Edited December 28, 2011 by xtremerevolution

[Gpfreak]

Sorry should have noted.. its going in a 2 door 96 jimmy i bought just for this purpose.. Thanks for the input, ill check out the aero ports, ive not used them for a LONG time, been using slots..Ill think about getting rid of the IDQs ill never use em.

[xtremerevolution]

I feel sorry for whoever wanted one of these and didn't jump on it. If you try to add 2 to your cart, it says "insufficient stock."

 

If you try to add one to your cart, it successfully adds. Looks like there's one left, or possibly none. Like I said in my original post, these are buyout drivers at an amazing price. When they're gone, they're gone, and it looks like that time has come.

Edited December 27, 2011 by xtremerevolution

[xtremerevolution]

I just discovered that they actually had quite a few T3 audio products available. A lower powered 400W version is for sale for $49 in both a single and dual 4 ohm configuration.

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=269-087

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=269-088

 

Seeing how fast the 600W version went, anyone who missed the last one might want to jump on this one. I can model a few boxes if anyone is interested in these as well.

[Rick]

For that 400W one, do you think the amplifier (Pioneer 5400T) would be able to power it? The amplifier puts out 380Wx1 at 4Ohms stable. I think a single 12" subwoofer would be sufficient for my needs, considering the 8" Bazooka was fine for me at the time this could only be a upgrade from that.

[xtremerevolution]

For that 400W one, do you think the amplifier (Pioneer 5400T) would be able to power it? The amplifier puts out 380Wx1 at 4Ohms stable. I think a single 12" subwoofer would be sufficient for my needs, considering the 8" Bazooka was fine for me at the time this could only be a upgrade from that.

 

Yeah, that 4ohm 400W sub would be great with that amp.

 

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[Rick]

Yeah, that 4ohm 400W sub would be great with that amp.

 

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Phenomenal, I saw another one on ebay for $50 w/ free-ship so I may just snag that. Do you think that a single 12" would hit loud enough? Im not going for ear painful deafening just need more bass than the 8" Bazooka put out. Could you also help me design the box for this woofer?

 

Thanks!

[xtremerevolution]

Phenomenal, I saw another one on ebay for $50 w/ free-ship so I may just snag that. Do you think that a single 12" would hit loud enough? Im not going for ear painful deafening just need more bass than the 8" Bazooka put out. Could you also help me design the box for this woofer?

 

Thanks!

 

For you, I'm sure it will be loud enough. You're looking at 2.5x the cone area as an 8" bazooka sub, and more excursion to boot. I can design a box for sure. I'll try to get around to it tomorrow or the day after. Better jump on that sub before it sells out.

 

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[Rick]

For you, I'm sure it will be loud enough. You're looking at 2.5x the cone area as an 8" bazooka sub, and more excursion to boot. I can design a box for sure. I'll try to get around to it tomorrow or the day after. Better jump on that sub before it sells out.

 

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Plan on purchasing it tonight, and thank you for the help!

[xtremerevolution]

Plan on purchasing it tonight, and thank you for the help!

 

Hold off on it just a second. I'm working on a box and it looks like you'll need to go ported, so I'll have to tell you what round port to also order from partsexpress. Do you have access to fiberglass or mineral wool insulation or batting?

[Rick]

Hold off on it just a second. I'm working on a box and it looks like you'll need to go ported, so I'll have to tell you what round port to also order from partsexpress. Do you have access to fiberglass or mineral wool insulation or batting?

 

Alright, ill hold off until you give me a go. By access do you mean it being available to my house or by being able to purchase it locally? Stores near me include Lowes, Home Depot and Walmart. I think one of those would have it though.

[xtremerevolution]

Ok, got a box model ready for the T400 Single 4 Ohm VC.

 

You'll need 2 cubic feet gross internal volume using 3/4" MDF. I would recommend a double thick front baffle, but its not absolutely necessary. Use one 4" round port at 17" in length. This is the port you'll need:

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352

 

One set of dimensions you can use for this size is 16" height x 20" width x 16" depth. This tunes the box to around 30-31hz.

 

I would very highly recommend that you line the walls with fiberglass or mineral wool material as described a few posts back. If you need box carpeting, order that at this time from partsexpress, as well as a terminal cup. Let me know if you need recommendations on exact parts.

 

By access I mean can you get it readily. Home depot and lowe's both have it but it may only be found in large packages of way more than you'll need. Some people have extra lying around from past jobs. You don't want the hard foam board material either, as a lot of that is closed cell foam that won't work.

Edited December 28, 2011 by xtremerevolution

[skitchin]

For a good music variety in a more SQ based install, run this at 1.25 cubic feet gross volume, 3/4" MDF, double thick baffle with the second baffle acting as a recess and reinforcement.

 

Thoughts on this box? Btw, there's an autoplay youtube video about halfway down the page to the left http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Black-Carpet-12-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Sub-Box-New-12S-/330661072592

 

Seems fairly cheap so no telling how good it actually is, but seems to meet a couple of the specs you went over. $40 to my door sounds way better than trying to make my own though

Edited December 28, 2011 by skitchin

[xtremerevolution]

Looks like it will fall apart in no time. Anyone who knows how to build a sub box knows to build it using wood glue. I'll bet that's screwed or nailed together and the caulk is used to attempt to seal it. You never need anything more than a generous bead of wood glue at the butt joints to seal a box that will last a lifetime. I guarantee a ton of leaks and it will probably fall apart after a while

 

You get what you pay for, and prefabbed boxes flat out suck. I have never seen a well built prefabbed box, at least not at that price point. Please build your own. I will even teach you how to do it.

 

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[Gpfreak]

Yeah, prefabbed boxes are not the way to go if you have ANY other option! And ya, PE seems to have bought out the last of T3's crap now that they are out of business/restructuring/redoing whatever lies they are telling now.. (I despise J.Demuth/Ed Lester with a passion) That said, these are GREAT prices on some decent woofers. So far Ive ordered 6 of the t600s and 6 of the t1000s (incase i get bored of the 600s) You would have a hard time finding a comparable woofer for the same price.

[skitchin]

Cool, I had a feeling it was probably garbage. I guess I'll give making another box a go, should be way easier than that slotted rockford box my buddy and I built. Not to mention smaller, by a lot.

[xtremerevolution]

Cool, I had a feeling it was probably garbage. I guess I'll give making another box a go, should be way easier than that slotted rockford box my buddy and I built. Not to mention smaller, by a lot.

 

Yeah, they're easy to build. I can knock them out in a couple of hours now, start to finish if I already have the materials.

 

Use a bead of glue almost as thick as a pencil to cover the surface of the wood you're gluing together. Clamp it down with wood clamps, wipe off the excess that seeps out through the seams.

 

I can build boxes for people as I have all of the woodworking materials needed to make a perfect box, but chances are most people here won't want to pay what I'd charge to build a box and shipping.

 

I could possibly do a group buy if there were enough people interested and wouldn't have to make several trips for MDF or spend the time to setup each time.

Edited December 28, 2011 by xtremerevolution

[Rick]

Yeah, they're easy to build. I can knock them out in a couple of hours now, start to finish if I already have the materials.

 

Use a bead of glue almost as thick as a pencil to cover the surface of the wood you're gluing together. Clamp it down with wood clamps, wipe off the excess that seeps out through the seams.

 

I can build boxes for people as I have all of the woodworking materials needed to make a perfect box, but chances are most people here won't want to pay what I'd charge to build a box and shipping.

 

I could possibly do a group buy if there were enough people interested and wouldn't have to make several trips for MDF or spend the time to setup each time.

 

I think im going to build my own, with your help that is whenever you're free. Its like the saying, "Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime." I would personally rather have the knowledge to construct my own box, and know its done with quality in mind and then be able to construct another down the line or help a friend construct one too.

 

I almost have the speakers in, running the wires through the door jambs turns out to be very tricky when its 39 degrees out and sun has already set where I am. I hope to have them in though by tonight, fuses for the distribution block should be here within a few days and then everything will be set to go for the sub!

[xtremerevolution]

I think im going to build my own, with your help that is whenever you're free. Its like the saying, "Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime." I would personally rather have the knowledge to construct my own box, and know its done with quality in mind and then be able to construct another down the line or help a friend construct one too.

 

I almost have the speakers in, running the wires through the door jambs turns out to be very tricky when its 39 degrees out and sun has already set where I am. I hope to have them in though by tonight, fuses for the distribution block should be here within a few days and then everything will be set to go for the sub!

 

Well, let me know when you're ready to start. Do you have wood clamps?

[skitchin]

I think im going to build my own, with your help that is whenever you're free. Its like the saying, "Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime." I would personally rather have the knowledge to construct my own box, and know its done with quality in mind and then be able to construct another down the line or help a friend construct one too.

 

I almost have the speakers in, running the wires through the door jambs turns out to be very tricky when its 39 degrees out and sun has already set where I am. I hope to have them in though by tonight, fuses for the distribution block should be here within a few days and then everything will be set to go for the sub!

 

Give a man a gun, and he can rob a bank. Give a man a bank, and he can rob the world.

 

Note: Run the RCA's and power wire down separate sides of your car so as to avoid any possible EMF.

[Rick]

Well, let me know when you're ready to start. Do you have wood clamps?

 

Will do. And, no, but would any home improvement store carry those?

 

Give a man a gun, and he can rob a bank. Give a man a bank, and he can rob the world.

 

Note: Run the RCA's and power wire down separate sides of your car so as to avoid any possible EMF.

 

Prior owner thankfully already had, im tired of wiring wires through my car! Haha.

[xtremerevolution]

Will do. And, no, but would any home improvement store carry those?

 

They will, but they'll be expensive, like $12 each and you need at least 4. Harbor freight has the same thing for $4-$5 and they're surprisingly a whole lot better. Menard's also has them for decent prices.

 

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[Rick]

They will, but they'll be expensive, like $12 each and you need at least 4. Harbor freight has the same thing for $4-$5 and they're surprisingly a whole lot better. Menard's also has them for decent prices.

 

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Hmm, do you think this is something that my high schools shop class would probably have? My Civil Engineering and Architecture teacher is also the Shop teacher which builds everything up do a full size wood desk for the Level 3 Shop Class. Might be able to ask him if I could barrow them for a few days?