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New headlight bulb doesn't fit


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On my 95 they're sealed beams and you have to replace the entire headlight. Same electrical connector, but different tabs. They say you can silicone seal the new bulbs in, but personally I'd say return the bulbs and do it the right way.

 

Also, relevant: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/53233-What-are-the-brightest-lights-u-can-get

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Limited on funds at the moment and I've got the 9006 bulbs already so I'll try and silicone it up to seal it. Not like I can make it work any worse than not at all, like it is right now :D

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can you afford the price difference between the whole lamp and the bulb? The parts store will probably take the opened package back if you explained that you were misled by the guide and you really need the headlight. Otherwise, silicone it up, there is a thread on here about doing that.

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Yes if you have a 2 door gp or cutlass it is a sealed bulb. If you are converting to a 9006 bulb you will need to cut out the old bulb and silicone in a new one.

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Yup had a thread about this before. Unless you spend an hour chipping away the sealant on the old housing your going to have to get a whole new sealed beam. Actually I reccomend it because the new ones are a lot more clear obviously and there are no rock chips and all that.

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That 9006 bulb works just dandy. Dunno how long it will take the RTV to cure completely since it's a bit cold out but it works and looks exactly like the H543.1419526etcetc bulb on the other side.

 

Now I need to figure out what replaces my foglights - Got one of them out but the H3 bulb listed doesn't match the bulb in there at all.

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That 9006 bulb works just dandy. Dunno how long it will take the RTV to cure completely since it's a bit cold out but it works and looks exactly like the H543.1419526etcetc bulb on the other side.

 

Now I need to figure out what replaces my foglights - Got one of them out but the H3 bulb listed doesn't match the bulb in there at all.

 

The fogs take either a 881 or 893 bulb IIRC

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Most excellent.

 

 

 

Is there any way to effectively seal the tail lights up so they don't fill up with water? Seems like they're a good bit less effective than they could be if they were clear, but they always want to either fog up on me or fill up with water.

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since you guys have been most helpful, i will repay your kindness by bothering you with another question.

 

 

this is the bulb that was in my innermost rear d/s signal socket. i noticed it didn't work, though the outermost signal bulb did. neither indicator on that side worked with my 4 ways on. other side is fine..

 

took the dead bulb out and found this. it doesn't work with a good bulb now. though, the outer d/s signal light flashes with my 4 ways now that the bad bulb has been removed from the socket? seems odd.

 

any idea what happened here? obviously there was some arcing and it burned up but i'd like to figure out why and where i should start looking given the odd operation.

 

post-6821-143689087448_thumb.jpg

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just my opinion the new sealed beam is much brighter and worth every penny. but can be expensive. I also find that the foglamps seem to have moisture issues that kill the bulbs prematurely. on my cutlass I replaced the complete assemblies.

The connector must be melted and not making contact. replace the socket and bulb. and check for moisture problem in the lense.

Edited by rockfangd
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There are aftermarket brands such as Blazer(tech) who do manufacture a replacement lamp. I did these some 10 years ago,

removed the original lens & bulb (kept the housing) and went to one of these 55w H3 bulbs and the improved lens for my (now) driving lights.

The lens is not a fog lens, but a driving lens, and they are much brighter and the direction of the beam is placed in front and down the road.

Now these Must be available stateside as well. If you go to my *garage* you'll see the driving lamps now on the car.

 

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/BulbsSwitchesRelays/FogLightKits/PRDOVR~0203594P/Halogen+Chrome+Lamp+Set.jsp?locale=en

Edited by 55trucker
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