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rich17

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Welp the time has finally has come to build my coilovers. I have been seaching and searching and hopefully I have the parts i will need.

 

Car is a 96 9C3 Lumina and plan is to AutoX/road race alot. and DD it till i buy a DD for next winter. the build wont take place till march tho. This is the list of parts I have come up with

 

From A1Racing.com

4x coilover sleeves p/n a1-12452h

4x adjusting nuts p/n a1-12460

4x upper seats p/n a1-12470

 

Summit Racing

2x front springs hal-12400

2x rear spring hal-12350

 

Rock Auto

new ball joints, inner and outer tierods.

front kyb GR2 strut cartridges

Rear Kyb GR2 struts

 

BXX front and rear strut mounts

 

Energy Suspension LCA bushings

Amazon.com p/n 3.3156

 

 

 

Anything I am missing? Yes I do plan to do rear trailing and lateral arms but that'll be down the road a little and I am still not sure what I want to do with those.

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Think you need 14" springs to run Bxx coilovers, atleast in the back. Also, I just put rear coilovers on my 95 GP. It could partly be because my front suspension is so shot, but 300lb springs in the rear are already too stiff for me. Also, for coils, you might as well get progressive rate springs if you're spending that much, they're $2 more. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-12-175-350/ Note that I can't find any 14" progressive springs on summit. Otherwise, I would say go for Summit Racing brand coils. Here's the thread from not too long ago when I was putting my rear coilovers together http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/52819-1995-GP-SE-Rear-suspension/

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Per my text, you dont need the upper seat from A1racing. Btw i got SummitRacing brand springs and love them. Cheaper than the QA1 units too. Up front ib m have 10inch long 2.5inch ID 425lb springs. I wanna go with 450lb this spring and put 375s on the rear once i do rear coilovers. Rears require a minimum of 12inch spring length.

 

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

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Rock Auto

new ball joints, inner and outer tierods.

 

For me, el cheapo tie rods have held up perfectly to years of hard cornering and a few autocross sessions. The discount ball joints have not. You might wanna spend a little more on those.

 

 

Anything I am missing? Yes I do plan to do rear trailing and lateral arms but that'll be down the road a little and I am still not sure what I want to do with those.

 

Addco rear sway bar. That would certainly help for autocrossing and you wouldn't need as much rear spring. My springs are only 275 lb/in, but with that bar I have noticeably less roll than the front which has the 34mm FE3 bar on poly bushings.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACO-474/

Edited by jman093
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For me, el cheapo tie rods have held up perfectly to years of hard cornering and a few autocross sessions. The discount ball joints have not. You might wanna spend a little more on those.

 

 

 

 

Addco rear sway bar. That would certainly help for autocrossing and you wouldn't need as much rear spring. My springs are only 275 lb/in, but with that bar I have noticeably less roll than the front which has the 34mm FE3 bar on poly bushings.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACO-474/

Thanks for the info! would the addco really be worth it since i have a 9C3 and should have all of the best?

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  • 2 weeks later...

you are missing a few things, you need flat rotory bearings to keep the front coils from binding when turning and additional hat support on the fronts and possibly a spacer to locate the spring threaded tube at the right height, good glue, silicon works good as the spring load keeps the lower end together also don't forget rear swar bar brackets. I am doing a set for a 91-z34 no sales pitch just not much call for these anymore, I will even send you step by step instructions on preping your strut housings. You can do the fronts in a good weekend using handtools and a small grinder 4" works ametal grinding disc and a flap wheel(home Depot) will be needed.

You may want to replace your front bearings at this time also. Hope this helps if you have questions contact me at HT.motorsports I will be glad to help you through this.

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you are missing a few things, you need flat rotory bearings to keep the front coils from binding when turning and additional hat support on the fronts and possibly a spacer to locate the spring threaded tube at the right height, good glue, silicon works good as the spring load keeps the lower end together also don't forget rear swar bar brackets. I am doing a set for a 91-z34 no sales pitch just not much call for these anymore, I will even send you step by step instructions on preping your strut housings. You can do the fronts in a good weekend using handtools and a small grinder 4" works ametal grinding disc and a flap wheel(home Depot) will be needed.

You may want to replace your front bearings at this time also. Hope this helps if you have questions contact me at HT.motorsports I will be glad to help you through this.

 

All he needs is torrington bearings for the front, I missed that he didn't have that listed.

 

AFAIK, he will be using the coilover mounts I make, so no tophat or anything is required.

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Per my text, you dont need the upper seat from A1racing. Btw i got SummitRacing brand springs and love them. Cheaper than the QA1 units too. Up front ib m have 10inch long 2.5inch ID 425lb springs. I wanna go with 450lb this spring and put 375s on the rear once i do rear coilovers. Rears require a minimum of 12inch spring length.

 

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

Bob, how do you keep the spring from falling off of the mount guide and having the torrington bearing slide off of the spring whenever you lift the car off the ground with the 10" springs on the front?

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Cause the torrington bearings go on the bottom of the spring:lol:

 

So when you put them on my car, why did you put a set on the top and a set on the bottom?

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

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