ringting Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 Good-day, New to forum and hoping to be pointed towards knowledge of value on 2 issues. I maintain my own vehicles since mechanics tend to be fast and dirty which impacts quality of outcome. Vehicle info; 1994, 08/94 build Model 4 WM57 [Coupe, Grand Touring, well equipped & seemly maintained (no records)] current odometer 68,000 [so Cal location, stored in Carport] Second owner, first was elderly woman This is now a 100 miles a day car Issues Faced (needing advice): Rad leaking top right corner, slow at this point [thinking of R&R bulk of parts/hoses/etc.] Engine Shutters / Hesitates at 2100 - 2300 RPM when attempting to accerlate [probably will start with new plugs & wires] Tools Available: 1994 Helms Manuals Manual wrenches A number of years learning through doing things once based on understanding a proper job is a quality job!! Thank you, Ringting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 that seems to be a good starting point with the shuttering... Id also try a new fuel filter.... Now on to the raid leak. Replace it...if its a house replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ringting Posted December 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Appreciate the response, was wondering what the forum would bring. Cooling System: I see the rad can be disassembled and core replaced, however Rockauto has a complete unit for $219 so probably will add that to hoses, … Engine Shutter: 1) Theplugs I got today are ACDelco 41-940 [$7.50 each] and the technical sources I have say 41-601, GAP 0.060” so not sure the right ones are in hand 2) Got a Purolator (yuck) PVC Valve PV892 on box (2191 stamped on it) and again my sources say CV892C so feeling uneasy since box does not match part. Any Comments? Also planning to do Vacuum System. The 89 Mercury GrandMarquis I had prior to this taught me the importance of spending $50 and a fewhours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 I would pop the radiator out, take it to a radiator shop, and have it inspected, cleaned, and repaired. In the old days, with copper/brass radiators, If I knew for sure that the radiator leak was the only problem, I'd solder the leak shut myself. Have done this a couple of times; it's simple and effective--once you have the propane torch, a steel brush, and a roll of solder and flux. Plastic tanks put an end to solder-at-home jobs. If the inspection shows your radiator is too far gone, you can buy another if you are EXTREMELY CAREFUL because replacement radiators are built "cheap"; they have fewer cooling tubes, they have fewer air fins, and in general are about 2/3 as efficient as the OEM radiator. As for the engine running problem, you can pull plugs and inspect wires, change sensors more-or-less at random, MAYBE you'll get lucky...but the real solution here is to connect a proper scan tool (not a piece-of-junk "code reader!) along with a fuel pressure gauge, and see what the engine is doing when it acts up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 I would pop the radiator out, take it to a radiator shop, and have it inspected, cleaned, and repaired. In the old days, with copper/brass radiators, If I knew for sure that the radiator leak was the only problem, I'd solder the leak shut myself. Have done this a couple of times; it's simple and effective--once you have the propane torch, a steel brush, and a roll of solder and flux. Plastic tanks put an end to solder-at-home jobs. If the inspection shows your radiator is too far gone, you can buy another if you are EXTREMELY CAREFUL because replacement radiators are built "cheap"; they have fewer cooling tubes, they have fewer air fins, and in general are about 2/3 as efficient as the OEM radiator. As for the engine running problem, you can pull plugs and inspect wires, change sensors more-or-less at random, MAYBE you'll get lucky...but the real solution here is to connect a proper scan tool (not a piece-of-junk "code reader!) along with a fuel pressure gauge, and see what the engine is doing when it acts up.j My AC spark plug catalog suggests that the 41-940 plugs are the premium (platinum/iridium) version of the ordinary 41-601. Since you didn't bother to tell us what engine you have--or even what car--I'm making some guesses here. The only application for 94 Chevrolet for those spark plugs is a 3.8 Lumina APV. A 94 Bonneville or Transport with a 3.8 would take those plugs, as would an Olds 88 Royale, Silhouette, or Ninety-Eight, but only if they had the 3.8 engine. Same with 94 Buick: LeSabre, Park Avenue, Regal, with 3.8L. I trust you have a 3.8 in whatever '94 vehicle you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 (edited) Duplicate--third attempt to delete. Edited December 18, 2011 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Bummer. For several weeks, I've been unable to properly edit posts; or delete duplicates. Anyone else having that problem??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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