White93z34 Posted December 21, 2011 Report Posted December 21, 2011 Those are original idler pulleys too. Risky business re-using those component failure is just as much a risk as belt failure, it not more. There is a reason why most kits include new idlers. That tensioner actuator idler was not rubbing on itself was it? refill the actuator with oil when done? Quote
Z34guy Posted December 21, 2011 Author Report Posted December 21, 2011 Those are original idler pulleys too. Risky business re-using those component failure is just as much a risk as belt failure, it not more. There is a reason why most kits include new idlers. That tensioner actuator idler was not rubbing on itself was it? refill the actuator with oil when done? our kit just came with the belt. And no. yes. Quote
GOT2B GM Posted December 22, 2011 Report Posted December 22, 2011 I like your use of square tubing instead of keystock for the cam flat hold down tools. I think you should spend some more time cleaning the components you have removed before reinstalling. It looks like there's oil surrounding the valley cover plate, I'd be suspicious of the dist o-ring. And x2 and what Chris said about reusing timing components. If there is any roughness felt in the idler bearings at all, I would change them out. Nice work otherwise. Quote
spiderw31 Posted December 22, 2011 Report Posted December 22, 2011 It looks like there's oil surrounding the valley cover plate, I'd be suspicious of the dist o-ring. And x2 and what Chris said about reusing timing components. If there is any roughness felt in the idler bearings at all, I would change them out. Nice work otherwise. x2 on both points (though I think that technically I'm x3'ing what Chris said ). I lost my t-belt due to a failed idler pulley bearing. Quote
Psych0matt Posted December 22, 2011 Report Posted December 22, 2011 (edited) My timing belt went in the cutlass because of one of the idler pulleys, it shattered at the center. My dad tried talking me into only buying one, and I fought with him to get both so I wouldn't have to attempt another timing job on my own a second time in a row. $45 at the time was worth more than doing it again or paying $500 later Yeah, I'd definitely recommend replacing the idlers at least, and the actuator as well. When I had to do my second timing job (after the engine was replaced when I blew it up) I reused the actuator, and got about 300 miles before it died and I had to do it all over again. Edited December 22, 2011 by Psych0matt Quote
Z34guy Posted December 22, 2011 Author Report Posted December 22, 2011 (edited) That's just it. It's a customer car> We need to get the customer to ok new pulleys and such. I'm honestly surprised how much she's throwing at it currently, but I'll pass the recommendation to the teacher for the third time. I bent my valves when my tensioner failed... at the same time as the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I It looks like there's oil surrounding the valley cover plate, I'd be suspicious of the dist o-ring. Nice work otherwise. The oil manifold gasket was SHOT. it came off in pieces no matter how ginger I was with it. It was probably the original gasket. One of the other teachers suggested replacing the distributer O-ring as well, so the topic's been brought up.... numerous times. Edited December 22, 2011 by Z34guy Quote
chadz34 Posted December 22, 2011 Report Posted December 22, 2011 That's just it. It's a customer car> We need to get the customer to ok new pulleys and such. I'm honestly surprised how much she's throwing at it currently, but I'll pass the recommendation to the teacher for the third time. I bent my valves when my tensioner failed... at the same time as the Crankshaft Position Sensor. She wants it to run well. Nice job so far! Quote
White93z34 Posted December 22, 2011 Report Posted December 22, 2011 Its way more expensive to do the job twice. I've experienced and seen multiple timing failures on these, but never a belt. usually the belt will go from a broken component. Quote
Z34guy Posted December 22, 2011 Author Report Posted December 22, 2011 Its way more expensive to do the job twice. I've experienced and seen multiple timing failures on these, but never a belt. usually the belt will go from a broken component. My original belt actually failed. I have it around here somewhere (not sure why I kept it, but I did) Quote
rockfangd Posted December 23, 2011 Report Posted December 23, 2011 that is beautiful It has exactly what I want in my next cutlass. Looks like a 1994. I love the SWRC in that year. I badly want a car just like that Teal 3.4 convertible, loaded, black with charcoal interior. That hits the spot. with a new top it will gleam. thanks for posting Quote
Z34guy Posted December 23, 2011 Author Report Posted December 23, 2011 yes, it's a 1994. I wish it was mine too. Quote
LuminaPower92 Posted December 23, 2011 Report Posted December 23, 2011 (edited) I love teal cuttys. Teal/black/black. Hot Nevermind, dont worry about telling her about the pulleys. Do however give her my number so when the pulley blows up, I can get that bad boy cheap. A teal vert would look lovely in my W collection. Edited December 23, 2011 by LuminaPower92 Quote
Z34guy Posted December 23, 2011 Author Report Posted December 23, 2011 I love teal cuttys. Teal/black/black. Hot Nevermind, dont worry about telling her about the pulleys. Do however give her my number so when the pulley blows up, I can get that bad boy cheap. A teal vert would look lovely in my W collection. lol. Today's update: Well, Today is the last update until January 2nd. Today was a half day at school, and as such we only got a few things done. Done today: 6 new spark plugs (AC Delco), oil pan gasket, and the driver's side tie rod end. January 2 list: rear main seal, final reassembly. Quote
chadz34 Posted December 23, 2011 Report Posted December 23, 2011 I am 100% into the progress of this thread! Quote
Z34guy Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Posted January 3, 2012 Took as many photos as I could this time. Apparently the woman who owns it recently called the school on it's condition.... Seems her Mitsubishi's giving her trouble and she'll need the Cutty soon. This time, most of class was spent looking for the correct bolts, bitching about people tossing extra bolts in with ours, and trying to get everything back on the subframe. Easiest thing this time was the rear main seal. It's not finished but we did need to put the thing outside. Can't do that with the subframe out. I even stayed an hour after class to make sure it was done right. My teacher brought this tool in thinking it would help. Naturally he didn't believe me when I said it didn't til I showed him it wouldn't. Hard to take straight photos when the engine kept moving on me. Home stretch Baby! Quote
slick Posted January 3, 2012 Report Posted January 3, 2012 #1: Sounds like the most disorganized class ever. Bolts mixed with bolts from other projects. Really??.... #2: Sounds like you are learning from a great teacher Quote
Z34guy Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Posted January 3, 2012 (edited) #1: Well, in their defense, they LOOKED identical to the bolts we needed but the threads were ever so slightly off. One of the other guys in my group lost 1 of the bowl shaped cup/washer for one of the sub-frame bolts. Don't ask me how he did it. I warned him to label EVERYTHING and put it in the same box. Not my fault I'm surrounded by retards. And #2: My teacher was a GM mastertech for 20+ years up until 2010. According to him, he didn't work on cars much cuz most of everything that came in was an SUV or a truck. So it's forgivable IMO that he can't tell a 60* V6 from a 90* V6 just from looking at them. A Lot of GM Vehicles share similar components. Edited January 3, 2012 by Z34guy Quote
Z34guy Posted January 4, 2012 Author Report Posted January 4, 2012 today's update. not much going on. Dropped the subframe for the LAST time so we could tie up some loose ends. Now for final reassembly. Had a bitch of a time finding a replacement alternator bolt, but we found one. The alternator is in the back on the bottom of the engine on this car. Biggest bitch of the day was getting the subframe BACK in. driver's side bolts went in fine. passenger's side was perfectly lined up but wouldn't screw in. So we put the wheels on and put the car on the ground and put it outside. we'll figure out the rest Friday. Also. New door handle is a definite. It was so cold this morning that the only working door handle broke in our hands trying to get the door open to bring the car in. one of the other cars in the shop. Also a 1990's mid-size FWD OHC V6 domestic convertible, a Chrysler LeBaron with a 3.0L SOHC Mitsubishi V6. came in for headgaskets around the same time we started on the Cutlass. now back to your regularly scheduled Oldsmobile Cutlass. This may be the last update depending on how distracted I am on Friday. Dad got me new rims for the Saturn for Christmas, they arrive tomorrow, and Friday I'm putting them on. Quote
Z34guy Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Posted January 6, 2012 I said I MAY update depending on how my rims installation when on my Saturn. To see the results of that project, go here: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/53406-Z34guy-s-Saturn-Ion-Quad-Coupe Now for today's update. I finished my rims halfway through class, meaning I had the rest of class to help on the Cutty. By the time I got there, the subframe was already fully bolted back in and we were just connecting miscellaneous things back together. The woman's getting a free new door handle cuz we broke one trying to open the door a few days ago in the extreme cold (It usually stuck anyways). Quote
Z34guy Posted January 9, 2012 Author Report Posted January 9, 2012 Today's update. ALMOST DONE! Everything's connected. All we have left to do is bleed the coolant and finish putting in oil (dip stick broke on us... fucking century's old plastic. ). Quote
95cutlass Posted January 9, 2012 Report Posted January 9, 2012 I forgot about this thread.. looking good!!! Quote
Z34guy Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Posted January 12, 2012 Well today was a wash. Finished up odds and ends (regreasing the caliper bolts and double checking all our bolts), and the damned thing wouldn't start. got fuel, got spark, just won't crank. I think either the starter solenoid or the starter itself decided to eat it. Not many pics of the cutlass today because I wasn't working on it most of the day. photos of that project in a second. preparing to start it up And now what I was working on most of the day. One of the instructors brought in his car, and naturally I gravitated towards it. being a GM guy, I fell in love with it. It's a 1978 Chevrolet El Camino. We were replacing the rear brake lines. Can you spot the W-body parts on this El Camino? Quote
94 olds vert Posted January 12, 2012 Report Posted January 12, 2012 That cutty needs a good engine detail. So many pictures on this page that it slowed my computer down for about a second. Quote
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