Digi UB3 adapter

[94 olds vert]

 

Here are a couple more I found.

 

[Reride]

I have a '92 CSC with a anolog UB3. The car has a SWRC & ACC and is prewired for the HUD. Pics of connector below. It is wired slightly different from '94 CS. I could use some help sorting this out for my Digi UB3.

Edited April 21, 2013 by Reride

[89 international]

Ok, I need some basic answers on this topic. I want to swap to the ub3 cluster in my base cs sl. They're both 89's. What modifications do I need to do this? Thanks.

[94 olds vert]

Your base model car has the standard digital cluster with no tach or oil pressure and things like that right?

 

You will need to run a tach wire, and oil pressure wire for sure. Possibly something for the volt gauge as well.

 

As for the actual wiring differences from a base 89 to a international 89 I'm not too sure. I would take a look at the harness in the two cars and see all what is different.

 

Here is a post from this thread that you should read.

 

Hey there,

 

Just a note, you can always attach the tach wire to the orange Data I/O wire on the ALDL connector. It's translated as the tach signal in the cluster.

 

Here is something I wrote awhie ago on upgrading to the UB3 Cluster:

 

Here is a simple description of the common dash panel wires and their function on your GM

Vehicle. There is also here notes on upgrading your vehicle's dash panel. Please take

note that if you do upgrade, it is recommended that you splice in the wire harness of the

new or full dash panel instead of replacing the old harness completely.

 

Special Note and Service Bullitin: If you own an Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme from 1988 to

1993 equipped with a standard 3 point/guage (Fuel, Speedometer, and Odometer only)

florescent digital display dash panel, it is recommended that you upgrade to the full all

guage (Digital Florescent or Analog) due to several issues with the 3 guage panels

including the main controller chip also known as a "Smart Driver" failing over time.

 

 

Pink w/ Blk (C1-Fuse#11) = IGN

Orange(D16) = Memory/Battery Constant

Grey(C11) & Yellow(C10) & Brn w/ Wht(D10) = Dimmer/Light Switch

All Black & Black w/ White = Ground

LT Blu = lft signal

DK Blu = right signal

Tan w/ wht = Brake Warning

Grey w/ wht = NC(No Connection)

Tan w/ Blk (C6)= ECM/Shift

Lt. Green = Headlights/High beam indicator

Orange (C13) = ECM/Data IO/Tachometer (Note: If you had a basic dash

without a tach, this wire can be linked to the orange wire on the

diagnostic connector under the dash to enable the tachometer on a

dash cluster with one. Also, if you originally had a basic dash

without a tach before, you will not have this orange wire in the

wire harness the car came with.)

 

Pink w/ Blk (C16-Fuse#9) = IGN

Yellow(D2) = Chime Module

Yellow w/ Blk(D3) = ECM/Low Coolant Warning

Brown(D4) = Alternator/Generator/Voltmeter

Brown w/ White(D5) = ECM/Service Engine Soon/Check Engine

Tan(D11) = Oil (Note: If you originally had a basic dash, but now

have a dash with an oil guage, the oil pressure sending unit will

have to be changed as well. If you do not change this, the oil

pressure will come up as high all the time.)

 

Dk Green w/ White(D12) = Temp (Note: If you originally had a basic

dash, but now have one with a temperature guage, the temp sensor

will have to be changed as well. If you do not change this, you will not

have any showing of temperature.)

 

Purple(D13) = Fuel

Dark Green(D15) = ECM/Speedometer

 

Also, your speedometer should have a read out regardless of wheather or not it came from a car with a HUD due to the fact that the HUD could always be shut off and was an add on option that piggybacked the info sent to your dash anyway. If your speedo is non-responsive on the dash, make sure that the green wire is connected properly, and memory may also be required for normal operation. Also, connection to the DIS may not be required for normal operation of the cluster. The DIS was also a piggybacked extension of both the dash cluster and ECM.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Starflare5.

[89 international]

Havent dug into this yet, but need to soon. The original setup keeps flashing and going blank. Anybody have pics of the procedure?

[l67ss]

Are these color codes at all close to the ones in my 97 monte ls?

Hey there,

 

Just a note, you can always attach the tach wire to the orange Data I/O wire on the ALDL connector. It's translated as the tach signal in the cluster.

 

Here is something I wrote awhie ago on upgrading to the UB3 Cluster:

 

Here is a simple description of the common dash panel wires and their function on your GM

Vehicle. There is also here notes on upgrading your vehicle's dash panel. Please take

note that if you do upgrade, it is recommended that you splice in the wire harness of the

new or full dash panel instead of replacing the old harness completely.

 

Special Note and Service Bullitin: If you own an Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme from 1988 to

1993 equipped with a standard 3 point/guage (Fuel, Speedometer, and Odometer only)

florescent digital display dash panel, it is recommended that you upgrade to the full all

guage (Digital Florescent or Analog) due to several issues with the 3 guage panels

including the main controller chip also known as a "Smart Driver" failing over time.

 

 

Pink w/ Blk (C1-Fuse#11) = IGN

Orange(D16) = Memory/Battery Constant

Grey(C11) & Yellow(C10) & Brn w/ Wht(D10) = Dimmer/Light Switch

All Black & Black w/ White = Ground

LT Blu = lft signal

DK Blu = right signal

Tan w/ wht = Brake Warning

Grey w/ wht = NC(No Connection)

Tan w/ Blk (C6)= ECM/Shift

Lt. Green = Headlights/High beam indicator

Orange (C13) = ECM/Data IO/Tachometer (Note: If you had a basic dash

without a tach, this wire can be linked to the orange wire on the

diagnostic connector under the dash to enable the tachometer on a

dash cluster with one. Also, if you originally had a basic dash

without a tach before, you will not have this orange wire in the

wire harness the car came with.)

 

Pink w/ Blk (C16-Fuse#9) = IGN

Yellow(D2) = Chime Module

Yellow w/ Blk(D3) = ECM/Low Coolant Warning

Brown(D4) = Alternator/Generator/Voltmeter

Brown w/ White(D5) = ECM/Service Engine Soon/Check Engine

Tan(D11) = Oil (Note: If you originally had a basic dash, but now

have a dash with an oil guage, the oil pressure sending unit will

have to be changed as well. If you do not change this, the oil

pressure will come up as high all the time.)

 

Dk Green w/ White(D12) = Temp (Note: If you originally had a basic

dash, but now have one with a temperature guage, the temp sensor

will have to be changed as well. If you do not change this, you will not

have any showing of temperature.)

 

Purple(D13) = Fuel

Dark Green(D15) = ECM/Speedometer

 

Also, your speedometer should have a read out regardless of wheather or not it came from a car with a HUD due to the fact that the HUD could always be shut off and was an add on option that piggybacked the info sent to your dash anyway. If your speedo is non-responsive on the dash, make sure that the green wire is connected properly, and memory may also be required for normal operation. Also, connection to the DIS may not be required for normal operation of the cluster. The DIS was also a piggybacked extension of both the dash cluster and ECM.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Starflare5.

[94 olds vert]

A few wires by chance could be but for the most part no.

[l67ss]

Anyone have the color codes for a cluster in a 97 monte carlo?

A few wires by chance could be but for the most part no.

[1988PhantomFE3]

Just posting nothing, so I can rember to come back here next week. I ended up getting a NEW UB3(ZERO MILES!), and I need to get back on track with this part of the project.

[94 olds vert]

Nice find with a zero mileage digi Ub3 cluster. I won't have internet for a while with the move, but I will try to get on to answer any questions you might have with this project. Good luck to you. Most of the info in this thread should be pretty helpful.

[94 olds vert]

So it's been over 3 years since I have made this cluster. Hard for me to believe that. I used it that first summer after I made it and it worked great. Well, I took it out of the car that winter when I stored it and I lost it. Well, I found it this morning when cleaning out some boxes I found after the move.

 

Some of my notes I wrote down and complete list of wire interchange.

 

Left is the factory UB3 pigtail that plugs into a Ub3 cluster. Right is the factory pinouts for the 1994 cluster.

 

C1 Pnk/blk-C15 pnk

 

What that means is pin C1 on the ub3 pigtail get connected to the C15 on the '94 cluster connector. If you are repinning your connector simply take C15 from the '94 connector out and plug it into the C1 spot. Everyone following so far? If not please ask a question. I am going to list off the rest of the pins.

 

This is the ub3 pigtail.

 

C2 LT Blu - D4 LT Blu

C3 DK Blu - D6 DK Blu

C4 Tan/Wht - C1 Tan

C5 Gry/wht - D14 Grn/Blk* My 89 Cutlass Supreme international HUD and 5 speed pigtal tail did not have ABS so I do not have a C5 Gry/wht wire. Yours maybe different I don't know.That is how to hook it up if available.

C6 Tan/Blk - N/A this is the shift light wire, and my 94 doesn't have anything to connect this to yours may be different.

C7 LT grn - D5 LT grn

C8 Not used C9 Not used

C10 DIM enable

C11 Cluster illumination gry - C3 Gry Cluster ilumintion and Dimmer input C10 may go here as well, if it is connected to the dimmer input from the headlight switch???

C12 Not used

C13 orange (wire that goes to tach) - connects to C2 wht must splice into ALDL for tach info.

C14 blk - C10 blk Ground

C15 Not used

C16 pnk/blk - C13 brn3

 

Now moving onto the D row of the UB3 pig tail.

D1 Blk - D7 Blk

D2 YEL - D8 YEL

D3 yel/blk - D14 yel/blk

D4 brn - d15 brn

 

D6

D7

D8

D9 English metric switch maybe used if you have put in a English metric switch for your DIS or have one stock. I did not put on in and convertibles do not have English metric switches factory.

D10 Dimmer input maybe used along with what I mentioned earlier for the dimmer. Not entirely sure, I have no plans to hook up a dimmer. The cluster displays at full brightness without this hooked up.

 

^ The above is not used

 

D11 tan D11 tan easy don't touch anything if repining.

D12 grn - D16 grn

D13 ppl - C4 ppl *fuel input

 

D14 not used

 

D15 grn - C5 grn

 

D16 is memory* No analog gauge cluster has a memory pin in the connector. Must be added from hot at all times. Cig light, radio wire, or a DIS wire would all do the job.

 

That should cover the majority of this job step by step. Any questions feel free to write me.

[Nas Escobar]

Do you know where I can find a UB3 cluster, and how do I match the odometer to my current one?

[94 olds vert]

Best bet, a local scrap yard may have a Ub3 cluster. That or check ebay. Someone here may have one sale.

 

I am not sure on how to get the mileage correct, it has been talked about quite a few times of the years.

[94 olds vert]

Here is how the finished project look likes. The wires hanging out are for HUD, memory, tach, and ABS I think...

 

Like I said, it wasn't made to be pretty.

 

Edited January 2, 2014 by 94 olds vert

[Nas Escobar]

Best bet, a local scrap yard may have a Ub3 cluster. That or check ebay. Someone here may have one sale.

 

I am not sure on how to get the mileage correct, it has been talked about quite a few times of the years.

 

I have a better chance of going to a president's luncheon with obama... Cutlass Supremes are extremely rare at my local yards... to find an International in my area would be like going to the end of the rainbow.... although it would be nice to pay $30 for one, but I assume these clusters are in high demand.

[94 olds vert]

I passed up 3 or 4 the last time I went to the yard... Too bad it's 0 degrees here or I would have to be braving the cold to go get you one.

[Nas Escobar]

I'll PM you later about that....

[rich_e777]

I have seen them on ebay every now and then as well. One time I almost had my hands on one from a member here but that never happened, was willing to pay extra for a time when I had the cash. I`d really like to make an adapter anyways for when I do get one though, is there any way I could test it without a UB3 with a multi meter?

[94 olds vert]

Test the adapter with a multi meter? I'm not sure, but they are probably people on this site that know more about that than me. I imagine if you plug it into your car, and you check for power at the Ub3 end of the connector, then you would know you have a good connection and it is working.

 

Mine works very well, and I haven't had any issues with it. Other than things I have stated, like extra wires for the tach and memory and such, but those are issues I haven't created.

 

That last write up I did, should really help anyone to put this together. If not ask questions. There are no stupid questions.

Edited January 2, 2014 by 94 olds vert

[RobertISaar]

meter alone will not determine working/non-working..... has to be powered up, preferably with range-compatible potentiometers in place of 3 sensors(oil pressure, coolant temp and fuel level). voltmeter will work off of the +12V feed you're giving it, speedo runs off of a square wave signal and tach runs off of the datastream.

 

still need to see what differences there are between a HUD and non-HUD UB3 cluster is to see if digital MPH can be displayed on a HUD unit. with the actual HUDs themselves, enabling an extra function took exactly 1 wire, could be the same here.

[94 olds vert]

I am curious to know if it's a missing component or just a left out connecting wire. I have not dug into my HUD Ub3 to see, but I don't have anything to go off of either. I don't have a non HUD Ub3.

 

So that would be fruitless for me to attempt.

[94 olds vert]

I am going to try and clarify this. C13 is for tach info. In my car I ran ran it to C2 which is tach for a analog cluster. That gets its info from the ICM or some other place similar.

 

I cut off my C2 wire on the factory pigtail on my 94 and spliced it into the ALDL from there. I recommend taking C13 directly and put it into the ALDL. Leave C2 out of it because it is not the right wire to get tach info from on this cluster.

 

[94 olds vert]

Visitors found this page by searching for:

 

1994 Cutlass Chime unit

 

[94 olds vert]

Added for ALDL this is the port in the ALDL where you get tach info the cluster.

 

 

[94 olds vert]

Got this installed today since it's a really nice 31 degrees outside. Video to follow. I still need the correct oil pressure sender and temp sensor. Those should be easy enough to find and replace. It does show a redline of 5500. It did come out of a 2.8l 5 speed car.

 

Edited January 4, 2014 by 94 olds vert