1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 (edited) DIS on ebay right now SOLD! http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-90-Olds-Delta-88-Royale-98-Regency-Instrument-Dash-Cluster-DIS-GAUGES-Display-/170836528596?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AOldsmobile&hash=item27c6a68dd4&vxp=mtr Thank you 94OldsVert & RobertISaar ! Edited May 17, 2012 by 1988PhantomFE3 SOLD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 My Ryobi is 18V, so I'm gonna have to wait to test the unit:roll: I'd take the battery out of the Cutlass, but it's so hard to get to. I'll figure something out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 I ran my 18V ryobi drill down to almost dead, jumped the wires to the battery and the DIGI lights up just fine! Thank you Nate! Now I'm trying to jump the DIS to run some code that Jay is taking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 You wouldn't have had to take the battery out of the Cutlass...Could have put the 12+ to the AUX post and the ground somewhere on the body. I used to do that all the time but now I just use the top posts on the battery of my S10, or my extra PC power supply... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 my extra PC power supply... boss mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 You know it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994RedVert Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 DIS on ebay right now SOLD! http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-90-Olds-Delta-88-Royale-98-Regency-Instrument-Dash-Cluster-DIS-GAUGES-Display-/170836528596?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AOldsmobile&hash=item27c6a68dd4&vxp=mtr Thank you 94OldsVert & RobertISaar ! I bought that DIS that you put the link up for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 21, 2012 Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 I should probable just buy a 12V power supply, or build another one like when we were kids 1994RedVert, when do you expect your DIS to come in the mail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Nate, where can I find a pin out for the 1994 analog dash? I'm going to pull it out soon and see what it takes to re-pin the connector, and check to see if they even ARE the same connector. But if that pans out, I may just repin the existing connector to the older configuration so the DIGI dash works. Kinda curious how the dash is going to dim? A far as everything I've read on these multiple threads post, I don't see anything that tells me how to hook up a dimmer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 The dimmer never bothered me all that much. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/48646-Digital-UB3-install-in-94-CS-with-analog-UB3?p=962298&viewfull=1#post962298 - digital pinouts. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/48646-Digital-UB3-install-in-94-CS-with-analog-UB3?p=962309&viewfull=1#post962309 - 1994 pinouts. As I recall, I was able to use the 1994 connector, just repin and trim down a rib or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted May 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 1994: C1: To BRAKE indicator - Tan/Wht C2: Tach input from DIS - Wht C3: Illumination bulbs, dimmer input - Gry C4: Fuel level Sender - PPL C5: VSS - Dk Grn C6-C9: Not used C10: Ground - Blk C11-C12: Not used C13: Ignition 12+ to gages - brn C14: Not used C15: Ignition 12+ to indicators - Pnk C16: Coolant temp sender - Dk Grn D1: Check gages to HUD - Brn D2: airbag light - brn D3: not used D4: LH turn - Lt blu D5: Hi beam - Lt grn D6: RH turn - Dk blu D7: Ground - blk D8: Fasten belts - Yel D9: Security light - Gry D10: not used D11: oil pressure sensor - Tan D12: not used D13: Anti-Lock light - Lt grn/blk D14: Low Coolant level light - Yel/Blk D15: Check Gages light - Brn D16: SES light - Brn/wht Those are the pins for a 1994 analog. C3 looks to be the dimmer on a 1994 analog. C10 looks to be the dimmer on a 88-91 digi Ub3. So all you have to is put pin C3 into the spot of C10 and you should be able to dim your dash. If that fails the yellow wire coming of the headlight switch is for diming and if you connect C10 directly to that wire it should dim. rich_e777 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Good News, I found the connector that plugs directly into the HUD unit! It was right behind the headlight switch just as described! THANKS! The existing analog connector for the cluster looks just like the the one for the Digi dash, are they the same fitment wise? No doubt some wires need to be repinned, but, do additional wires need to be added/run to the Digi Dash? I thought it was mentioned here before... It wasn't my intention to step all over this thread, sorry if I'm intruding. I know that adding a HUD can take a piece of work if it's not prewired, I can post any pics that need to be taken to show where wires might run along a stock install path if that helps in any way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted May 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) You can plug the 1994 connector for the cluster into the back of a Digi Ub3 and nothing will happen. You do need to run a wire from the ALDL to the digi dash in order to get the tach to work correctly. I think you will also need to do something about the HOT ALL THE TIME. Because the analog doesn't store any data. I'm sure the radio has a hot all the time wire you can use for this. Thanks for those pictures. In the future when people search for stuff they will be able to find all this great info in one easy spot. Edited May 22, 2012 by 94 olds vert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Thank you Nate! I'm going to take close up pics of the connector pin swaps too. But for right now, I can't see any simularities in either pin out from the Digi compared to the 1994? I must of missed something bigtime, noting matches up... I'm going to read the other thread you linked as soon as I get back from helping my neighbor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 voice of paranoia talking: i'd be careful attempting to connect a vacuum fluorescent dimmer signal circuit to a circuit used for incandescent dimming. i may do some diagram digging myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) I'm lost.... 1994 C1 = BRAKE INDICATOR Tan/White 1990 C4 = TAN/WHT brake indicator (-) so I remove existing C1 wire/connector pin out of the present '94 connector and put it in C4 of the '90 connector?(I noticed that the connectors are close in appearance, but they are keyed different for each mating connector) Then the same for all the other wires? Just locate them (per function) on the 1994 pin out list and move them to the locations called out on the 1990 pin out list? Sorry if I'm being overly cautious, just measuring 100 times before I cut once! I want to get this right, at least the CONNECTOR part for now. I know I still have to add/run new wires for the DIS too. Edited May 22, 2012 by 1988PhantomFE3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) RobertISaar, where is the release on the pins so I can remove each one from the connector. I can see the insulation support grip, but that's it as far as what is where on each connector pin? Never mind, I found it... for all else interested in the pin/contact info, check out pics. The white pointer shows where the release lock is on the contact pin itself. You remove each contact pin by inserting a small pointed oblect (I used extreme fine tip tweezers) thru the front of the connector as shown. You should be able to sensitively feel the spring tension as you moved the locking mechanism ever so carefully to pull out the wire. If it feels stuck, try to move the front of the tweezers from right to left, while gently putting a little pull pressure on the wire. Also included this perticular connector's wire colors as installed from the factory. NOTE; THESE ARE PICS OF THE CONNECTOR FOR THE DIGI DASH, NOT THE '94 CONNECTOR!!! Edited May 22, 2012 by 1988PhantomFE3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 those look like they use the same terminals as the ECM connectors for 1227730 style ECMs... http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/TerminalDetails.aspx?ItemId=298 take a look at the pic, you should see a little "tang" above the boxed portion. that should be how they work on the cluster connector, just depress the tab and it should slide out. you will obviously need to remove the clip portions first, otherwise the pin won't move out. oh, and 32 pin connectors on the bottom of that page? PROBABLY could be worked with to use with the cluster, if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Bare DIGI DASH connector with all contact pins removed. 2 of them were hard to get out so I inserted my tweezers in all the way and felt the release pins onlock, then pulled on the back of the wire and they popped out. It looks like them must have been reworked once upon a time and it damaged the locking mechanism, so they did have to be pursuaded but no damage was done to the inside of the connector( I re-inserted a couple of good contacts/wires, and they locked in then pulled out fine)...Thank YOU GOD! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 nate, you mentioned earlier that present C3 will be moved to new C10 for Illumination? Robert, VF dimming wire/contact for 1990 is C10, am I going to fry something if I connect it as Nate advised? or should it go to C11? I'm just going down the list and asking as I find discrepencies. Like 2 HOT pink/blk on new pins C1 & C16? I suppose I could wire/splice them both together? After I get this all re-wired & tested, I'll make a really nice From/To wiring diagram of the wire swaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 I spent the last couple hours comparing my swap list to CRAZY K's he had posted in another thread, mine were just like his for the most part. He did have some "pending" remarks that never got re-addressed, but hopefully we all can answer those here. Before I ask any more questions (and thoughout the rest of this thread) I'll just wait for answers to present questions I've posted. Thank You again ALL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted May 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Now that I look over Kens wiring C11 should be the dimming feature. Looks like C3 and C11 aub3 are both for back lighting. To answer post #66. You will take the 1994 wires and put them in the 1990 wire locations. dUB3-C4 TAN/WHT brake indicator (-) 94aUB3-C1 TAN/WHT brake indicator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994RedVert Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Bare DIGI DASH connector with all contact pins removed. 2 of them were hard to get out so I inserted my tweezers in all the way and felt the release pins onlock, then pulled on the back of the wire and they popped out. It looks like them must have been reworked once upon a time and it damaged the locking mechanism, so they did have to be pursuaded but no damage was done to the inside of the connector( I re-inserted a couple of good contacts/wires, and they locked in then pulled out fine)...Thank YOU GOD! Where did you get all the wires and contact pins? I am about to do a digi dash and DIS install myself. Definitely when you finish this install post some really good pics of the wiring harness and where you got all your materials please. I am going to go to the junk yard to get the female plug from an analog dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1988PhantomFE3 Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) Thanks again NATE! You've really been there for us and this Trubute build! 1994RedVert, my digi dash UB3 came with the connector, contacts and part of the wires. The guy I bought it from snipped it out of the dash wiring. I might be getting another Digi Dash if you want to buy this one I have, just letting you know if your looking for one. Also, I decided to just re-pin the 1990 connector onto my 1994 existing wiring instead of trying to find or build an adapter. post #68 above has a link to where you can buy a new 32 pin connector (FYI) I'll be re-using the existing factory wiring/contact pins from the 1994 harness. Edited May 22, 2012 by 1988PhantomFE3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted May 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 My pleasure to help you. It's great to see others wanting to work on these cars. This board has helped me out a lot over the past couple of years and it's nice to be able to help others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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