Manual steering rack?

[mazdamx640]

I have a 93 gp coupe that i would like to convert to manual steering and was wondering what rack i could use to convert to manual steering? also is there any steering wheel adapters that would fit my car? dosnt have airbags and i would like to get rid of the stock ugly wheel and get somthin that looks nice

[Addicted To Boost]

Why are you wanting manual steering? When the ps goes out on these, they are anything but fun to drive around. No W-bodies ever came with manual steering.

[mazdamx640]

I've had a couple cars with manual steering and I prefer it. I also want less weight more power better mpg's and one less thing to leak or fail. also planning manual brakes ill pry do that when i have the motor out

[mazdamx640]

As for the rack i was pretty sure no w bodies ever came with manual steering but I would like to find a manual rack that is bolt in or requires minimum modification to work.

[BXX]

You won't find a manual rack that will work unless you plan on doing some welding. Your RWD manual aftermarket racks wont work either, you would end up turning the wrong direction,

 

Not to mention, you would need a custom idler/serp belt setup to bypass the PS pump. LX9 Malibus and G6s could have no PS (Electronic assist) but you would need the entire timing cover as IIRC the 3.1 doesn't have the bosses for the PS delete Idler/Tensioner.

 

Also, if you were to overcome all obsicles and have manual steering you will find you will need to do some suspension work aka custom alignment with ultra low or negative caster angle, otherwise you will pretty much not to able to turn the damn wheel. And with the low/negative caster angle, you will end driving all over the road with our suspension geometry.

 

 

So saving 5hp and 2mpg in the end will cost alot of money and huge headaches and end up with a unstable car driving down the road.

 

 

And manual brakes??? Are you smoking crack?!? You think a 1960 Chevy truck with manual brakes is hard to stop? Try stopping one of our W-bodies with no power booster! Our brakes are barely adaquate to be considered safe as it is, ditch the brake booster and you'll end up killing yourself or someone else.

 

 

If you wanna save weight, go on a diet. If you want more power, time for an engine swap. You want better MPG? You can do that with said motor swap as well.

Edited November 13, 2011 by BXX

[mazdamx640]

I had a chevy caprice that had the power steering pump removed so turning a lil wbody shouldnt be too much of a problem and manual breaks give you better pedal feel. as for the motor swap i got a 3800 that i am rebuilding this winter when i get layd off.

[ManicMechanic]

Big difference between a Caprice and a W body...

[BXX]

I had a chevy caprice that had the power steering pump removed so turning a lil wbody shouldnt be too much of a problem and manual breaks give you better pedal feel. as for the motor swap i got a 3800 that i am rebuilding this winter when i get layd off.

 

Dude, i'm telling you, manual brakes, and your stopping distance would end up triple easily, not to mention you would have to 2 foot the pedal just to get the car to stop.

 

If you wanna be a fucktard and remove something that keeps your car safe, then by all means do so, but don't drive it on the roads.

 

Your chevy caprice also has a SLA suspension, ultra low caster angle, high positive camber angle, and a high ratio steering gear that made it all possible to be able to overcome no power steering. You don't have that option on a W-body.

[BXX]

Judging by your sig, I guess I can't be suprised on your brilliant ideas for your sbx.

 

Go hit the bong harder, maybe you'll come up with the great idea to make your W-body rear steer too just because you drove a Prelude that had a rack back there.

[mazdamx640]

This is bullshit since when when did this become all about bashing Im just trying to build the car to suit me

[BXX]

Because there is zero logic to what you want and it poses a safety issue, thats why.

 

Not to mention, the end results will be a borderline disaster.

 

 

However, the upside is your steering wheel problem. Almost any GM steering wheel will interchange, aka bolt on. So there are plenty of decent looking ones you can choose from at a junkyard.

[xtremerevolution]

Judging by your sig, I guess I can't be suprised on your brilliant ideas for your sbx.

 

Go hit the bong harder, maybe you'll come up with the great idea to make your W-body rear steer too just because you drove a Prelude that had a rack back there.

 

I'm with bxx here. This has got to be by far one of the dumbest ideas anyone has come up with on this board. Not trying to be rude, but there's no nice way to say this. Removing power brakes and power steering? I want some of what you're smoking.

 

Seriously, there is no reasonable benefit to any of this crap. Every damn car these days is built with power steering and power assisted brakes for a damn good reason. You're about to create a hazard on the road, putting your life and the lives of others in danger to gain 2hp and have to work harder?

 

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[88red4cyl]

I'm with bxx here. This has got to be by far one of the dumbest ideas anyone has come up with on this board. Not trying to be rude, but there's no nice way to say this. Removing power brakes and power steering? I want some of what you're smoking.

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

 

THIS!!! If you want a car with no power steering or power brakes, buy one that came that way from the factory.. These cars have these features for a reason...

[BXX]

BTW, putting a 3800 in place of your 60* engine will further add weight. However assuming it's a supercharged 3800 or your going turbo with it, im sure the power will offset a few extra pounds

[tornado_735]

obvious troll is obvious...?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xtremerevolution]

BTW, putting a 3800 in place of your 60* engine will further add weight. However assuming it's a supercharged 3800 or your going turbo with it, im sure the power will offset a few extra pounds

 

By a long shot too. I'm kicking serious ass with the l67 in the buick.

 

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[White93z34]

This is bullshit.

 

Ok guys you don't like his idea, disagree in a respectful manor... or don't post.

[BXX]

I refuse to respect an obvious stoner and his brilliant ideas.

[mazdamx640]

I'm just really into racing and want the best performance out of my car possible for the occasional track day. as for what i'm smoking camel menthols my job does drug tests

[White93z34]

I refuse to respect an obvious stoner and his brilliant ideas.

 

Then do not post in his threads.

[BXX]

Then why the hell would you have a sig like that?!

 

 

Race cars with manual brakes are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyy different than an old street car with manual brakes. They get away with it by using high ratio pedal levers on high displacement master cylinders and large brakes. However they have ultra high pedal effort still. And the main reason for that is due to the low vacuum situations associated with high RPMs where a booster won't do much, and not so much weight unless your talking open wheeled racing.

[White93z34]

I'm just really into racing and want the best performance out of my car possible for the occasional track day. as for what i'm smoking camel menthols my job does drug tests

 

If that is the case quit worrying about manual racks, and manual brakes... those are not really drawbacks of our cars they have plenty of other areas for improvement then there.

[BXX]

If you want uber awsome pedal feel, there's a 100000% mo betta way to do it.

 

Start with a new master cylinder, non ABS is your best bet. Simple, effective. A good or new/reman booster might be helpful. Your 93 already sports the smaller W-body booster.

 

Brake lines, if any rust, replace the lines. Rusty lines do actually swell under braking causing bad pedal feedback.

 

Next, most important and helpful, replace the rubber brake hoses with braided stainless hoses. Pedal response will be fantastic.

 

Sticking or old calipers and/or pads that stick in hardware or guides and sticking/dragging hardware will all cause a softer less responsive brake pedal. Low pads and/or thin worn out rotors increase this as well.

 

A set of Hawk pads or the like would help as well. I believe Andrie (xtremerevolution) loves Akebono pads, And having driven his Regal, his brake pedal feels awsome.

[BXX]

The P/S issue is easily resolved. The most common source of leaks are the lines themselve. Easy and cheap to replace with the engine out of the car. Pretty much no more leaks for ages and you still have PS.

 

To free up HP (prolly the same amount as trying to delete the PS) get a underdrive pulley. Lighter and smaller. MRZ Performance also sells billet altenator pulleys that match nicely, a bit lighter and will match speed better so no low idle low charge situations.

 

 

And Chris, god doesn't exist, to swearing to him isn't very helpful.

[AL]

Delete the emissions BS if you want to free up some HP