Go4DaMo Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 My mom's 1992 Lumina 3.1 was exhibiting engine failure upon turning the headlights on yesterday evening. Today, I could not prompt it to fail upon turning the headlights on. Nearly one year ago, I recall this vehicle having an issue where the engine would start and idle, but as soon as I tapped the brakes, the engine would die. I believe it was a toasted battery, which I replaced. Is something eating the battery to where it's failing again? This morning, I started the vehicle, kicked the headlights on, and began hitting the brake rapidly, trying to bring the demons out in the car, so I could fix it tonight, as its my mom's only transportation to work and I leave long before she does to get to my place of employment. All the vehicle did was sputter a bit, staying just above 1000 RPMs, before idling healthily below 1000. What gives? My only thought (as I tossed and turned last night in my bed) is that there is a bad tach ground that's causing my remote start to continue turning the engine over even after it's running. This only happens occasionally, but the awful grinding of the starter has kept me from ever using the electric start. Could this be causing my current problem? Any input it madly appreciated. Thanks, everyone! P.S - originally posted in this thread and good old Al Walker gave me some input. Would appreciate some more! http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/7355-Engine-wiring-harness-replacement-FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skitchin Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 I'd check the main power and ground lines. Sounds like the car is losing too much voltage causing the engine to die out, which could be a bad/loose power or ground wire. Also, that remote starter could be cause for concern. The over-cranking would mean it wasn't getting a good tach signal. When I tried installing a remote starter I bought this T-harness to make the install easier. It made a piss poor connection and I had all sorts of funky things happening. As for re-creating the issue, hook up a voltmeter and just try turning everything on - brights, hazards, radio, AC/Heater, etc. Hope that helps a bit - if it's something else I've got nothin for idea's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4DaMo Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Dude, really appreciate the reply. Hopin to correct this issue tonight. You gonna make it out to a Dayton meet next year, bro? I know a couple of us come from KC. Grand Prix looks awesome, by the way...rack up those miles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4DaMo Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Where is it getting the tach signal from that I can better that connection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skitchin Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Dude, really appreciate the reply. Hopin to correct this issue tonight. You gonna make it out to a Dayton meet next year, bro? I know a couple of us come from KC. Grand Prix looks awesome, by the way...rack up those miles! Not sure where to tap into that wire to be honest - but the harness everything else taps into is under the driver side kick panel/dash cover/whatchamacallit. Thinking about it - if that tach wire has a bad splice, could interrupt signal to the ECM. Find your main harness under the dash and just try wiggling some wires around EVER SO GENTLY and see if the car dies. Was thinking that if it happened when the brakes were pressed, maybe the driver's foot bumped that panel and aggravated a bad wire. Yeah I've considered doing a Dayton meet. I went to a Northern IL meet earlier this year and it was a memorable experience. Looks like Dayton is just barely further away from where I drove to Wheaton. I'll try to keep up on when the next meet is and see about convoying with somebody. I do know I'd be staying the night because I about died coming home from Wheaton driving in the rain, which is a story in itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairdo12 Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Check your txt messages from a year ago, the tac signal is from the small purple wire beneith the coil packs. Open the hood and look at the coil packs, you cant miss it. Thetac signal was a big bitch for me. Just rip the remote start module out if its causing problems. It has a safty feature that if the key is not in the on position and you hit the brake itll kill the motor. The problem with the motor pissing out when the headlights go on never ever happened to the car. Only once when the battery was totally dead and tha alt couldnt keep up. The alternator only had like 100 miles one it so maybe it was totally weak out of the box when it was installed. What is the voltage at the battery while the engine is at idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4DaMo Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Just now reading this...and last night, the car's voltage completely drained in the two blocks it was driven. Wouldn't even turn the dome light on when my mom went to restart the car. Had it towed. Mechanic said it sounded like an alternator. Where'd the alternator come from? Any warranty? Thanks, Skitchin. Thanks, Mark. PS - if it's just an alternator, that'd be a godsend...cuz I'm not home long enough to invest labor time into this. Alternators are a walk in the park! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Thank god its a 3.1 car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4DaMo Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 FO SHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairdo12 Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Just now reading this...and last night, the car's voltage completely drained in the two blocks it was driven. Wouldn't even turn the dome light on when my mom went to restart the car. Had it towed. Mechanic said it sounded like an alternator. Where'd the alternator come from? Any warranty? Thanks, Skitchin. Thanks, Mark. PS - if it's just an alternator, that'd be a godsend...cuz I'm not home long enough to invest labor time into this. Alternators are a walk in the park! I bought it July 4 2010. I think I only bought a value craft one because at the time it was $50 cheaper. I think it only had a one year warranty. I didn't put that many miles on it so I cannot vouch for its reliability. The alt was replaced because the rear bearing was coming apart after 10 years. Have you charged the battery at all? I would put the battery on 10 amps for 5 hours, 5 amps for 5 hours and then 2 amps untill its fully charged. If its the alternator, then the car should start and run just fine for a long time after a good charge.... given the battery wasn't damaged for being discharged for so long. Its about a 30 minute job to replace the alternator. Best to have the alt bench tested at autozone to see what kind of output its giving. A simple voltage test may not be enough because it might be capable of 13.8v with little load but put out no amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Test it with the brights on, ac on full blast and wipers on high Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4DaMo Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 radio pumpin BPMs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 FO SHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4DaMo Posted December 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Found out the negative battery cable wasn't secured properly. Hasn't been touched since before I moved to Florida. Don't know how that was the case, but it took a while for my mechanic to diagnose it. I threw batteries at every car in the driveway before I moved, wanting everything to last and not knowing when I'd return. Couldn't remember what I did to each car, but I think I have it all figured out now Thanks everyone for your help!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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