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Replace Brake Pads and resurface rotors


Cougnut

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Hey guys,

 

I'm not really that good with getting my hands dirty (I'm a IT tech). Anyways, my brake pads are wearing down, and I had a buddy of mine (works at Big-O), balance/rotate my tires for me. He then checked the thickness of my rotors and told me to replace the brake pads, and to have the rotors RESURFACED, and not to be scammed by a shop into buying new rotors. He's busy with his newborn, and can't really do the sidework for me. I called up a few shops, and the best price I got was $215, F' that. So what I was thinking is to do it my damn self.

 

I have a garage with a lot of standard tools. I was looking at buying new rotors and brake pads, and getting the hands dirty on Saturday. Is there any special tools required to take anything off? 91 Z34

 

ppreciate' it.

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Make sure you've got a T60 (I think) bit and a breaker bar to remove the caliper brackets; they will take quite a bit of torque to get loose. Also a brake piston compression tool makes the job easier. If you don't hove one of those, you can use a very large C clamp and one of the old brake pads in a pinch. Oh and also a 5 lb. sledge to get the rotor off if it is rusted to the hub :).

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Make sure you've got a T60 (I think) bit and a breaker bar to remove the caliper brackets; they will take quite a bit of torque to get loose. Also a brake piston compression tool makes the job easier. If you don't hove one of those, you can use a very large C clamp and one of the old brake pads in a pinch. Oh and also a 5 lb. sledge to get the rotor off if it is rusted to the hub :).

 

Right, its a T60. Make sure you get a good one from the premium section of whatever store you're in, 1/2" drive. Not even kidding. Those bolts like to sieze up and the last thing you need is a broken bit head stuck in the bolt. Those may require quite a bit of force.

 

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If you've got an Oriley's Auto around you they'll resurface/turn your rotors for-like $10 per. Pistons can be compressed with a c clamp or a well positioned pry bar. You might want to pick up new caliper bolts as well once you get the old ones off to make your life easier in the future - Dorman makes them and they run about $5 per bolt. As for pads, anything will work - but don't go cheap cheap - ceramic or a good brand of semi-metalic (Like Bendix) is your best bet for a smooth stopping experience. :)

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Never turn our rotors, they are just barely thick enough stock to do the job without warping too quick. Resurface it, and well, youll be replacing them well before the pads wear out. New rotors are aboot $20-30 each. Why pay almost half to machine a shitty old rotor??

 

Cheap white box rotors + good pads = a good result without a empty wallet. Its been covered here soo much and is the best bet to go for stock replacement. I personally like Wagner Thermo-quiet pads. Advance Auto Parts can get them, dunno aboot other parts stores.

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The t60 bolts that hold the caliper bracket are torqued at 148 ft lbs. those need to come off and go on tight. breaker bar will be needed, and a large torque wrench is recommended.

 

GM uses thread locker on them too.

 

I recommend having a propane torch (little slower than MAPP or OxyAcet) but it works.

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Never turn our rotors, they are just barely thick enough stock to do the job without warping too quick. Resurface it, and well, youll be replacing them well before the pads wear out. New rotors are aboot $20-30 each. Why pay almost half to machine a shitty old rotor??

 

Cheap white box rotors + good pads = a good result without a empty wallet. Its been covered here soo much and is the best bet to go for stock replacement. I personally like Wagner Thermo-quiet pads. Advance Auto Parts can get them, dunno aboot other parts stores.

 

Oh, I just gave him advice since he mentioned resurfacing them - I just buy mine new every time I do my brakes normally (if they look like crap anyways) :P

 

Never been a fan of cheapie rotors...at least not from Advance. :lol: I've sworn off Wagner due to the horrible issues that plague the drums they manufacture for w-bodies - every single one I've gottenis out of round...it's freaking crazy....plus reviews online say the same thing. Found that whatever drum Oriley's carries is perfect though (and cheaper!). Never been a fan of their rotors of pads either, not when you can get better ones online for less money.

 

Anyways, I prefer brake parks (rotors!) manufactured by Centric now...world of difference! Sucks that you can only get they online. For about $5-$15 more per rotor when compared to the auto parts stores, so I don't mind paying extra.

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Oh, I just gave him advice since he mentioned resurfacing them - I just buy mine new every time I do my brakes normally (if they look like crap anyways) :P

 

Never been a fan of cheapie rotors...at least not from Advance. :lol: I've sworn off Wagner due to the horrible issues that plague the drums they manufacture for w-bodies - every single one I've gottenis out of round...it's freaking crazy....plus reviews online say the same thing. Found that whatever drum Oriley's carries is perfect though (and cheaper!). Never been a fan of their rotors of pads either, not when you can get better ones online for less money.

 

Anyways, I prefer brake parks (rotors!) manufactured by Centric now...world of difference! Sucks that you can only get they online. For about $5-$15 more per rotor when compared to the auto parts stores, so I don't mind paying extra.

 

Every manufacterer has occasional defects. Its the case with anything you buy really, whether its car subs, brake pads, or microwaves. Refusing to buy one brand because of a bad experience once is petty. If we all did that, we'd be out of vendors. I've installed every grade of Wagner pad they make and haven't had an issue.

 

With regard to rotors, I go cheap on the rear but go quality on the front. My last set of powerstop drilled rotors lasted me 125k miles before warping due to one of my calipers siezing up. I no longer run drilled rotors, but the experience has left me with an apprecition for quality where it can make a difference.

 

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Every manufacterer has occasional defects. Its the case with anything you buy really, whether its car subs, brake pads, or microwaves. Refusing to buy one brand because of a bad experience once is petty. If we all did that, we'd be out of vendors. I've installed every grade of Wagner pad they make and haven't had an issue.

 

With regard to rotors, I go cheap on the rear but go quality on the front. My last set of powerstop drilled rotors lasted me 125k miles before warping due to one of my calipers siezing up. I no longer run drilled rotors, but the experience has left me with an apprecition for quality where it can make a difference.

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

 

It's not petty - it's just a simple preference. I also don't swear off a brand due to a single bad experience...it takes quite a few to make me start to look elsewhere. Sadly I've personally found that Wagner's quality varies (drums aren't the only issue I've had with them), and due to that I've moved away from them for my brake needs if I can help it. I've never had a single problem with Dorman, Monroe, Centric, Bendix, Mevotech, Moog, ACDelco, Timken, etc... so when you say swearing off 1 manufacturer is petty it's really not - I just stick with that works for me and gives me the best bang for the buck with the least amount of work and frustration. :)

 

Honestly, me disliking Wagner is like how people complain that Monroe Sensatrac struts are horrible. I have them on my car and personally like them and have no complaints. Other people won't let them near their car and swear by KYB or even Gabriel. It's all about preference I guess...

 

Another prime example of me swearing off a part/brand is Advance Auto's CV joints. The new ones they carry they say "fit" our cars. They don't - spindle is wrong and won't work with the 4T60-E (maybe they are for the 4T65-E?). The remanufactured ones they also offer are of poor quality as well so I've sworn them off as I've had them fail twice in a very unreasonable amount of time. Auto Zone's Duralast CV Joints are much better quality for the same price and I haven't had one fail yet. They are machined better and are of just a better caliber from personal experience.

 

Hopefully you see where I'm coming from here! :lol:

Edited by ptcfast2
I can't spell today!
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Is there any special tools required to take anything off? 91 Z34

1. The main problem with the caliper mounting bolts is that the bolt has a bell-shaped sleeve over it; and the sleeve has seized to the bolt shank. The bell-sleeve has to be heated with a torch to free it so it spins freely on the bolt shank. Been my experience that the next time you pull the brakes apart...the sleeve will be seized again. You can replace the bolts easily enough...the new ones aren't any better than the old ones after the old ones have been heated so the sleeve is free again. 'Bout the only reason to replace the bolts is because the Torx head is damaged and doesn't fit the Torx socket (tool) properly.

 

1. Be sure to remove the rust from the hub, around and between the lug studs. Also remove the rust from the rotor center (inside and outside), and from the lug pads on the back of the wheels.

 

2. I have no problem resurfacing rotors. Why add to the Chinese economy by buying new rotors if you don't have to? That said, the rotors need to be resurfaced by a person with a brain, and not a moron. Actually, if they measure good for thickness, parallelism, runout--and they aren't badly scored--they can just be re-used without additional machining. Problem is, it takes longer to properly and completely measure them than to just get 'em cut. MOST folks only measure the thickness (if that!) and Do-It-Yourselfers generally won't have the tools to properly measure rotors.

 

3. The rear caliper pistons can be easily compressed into the caliper with a C-clamp IF (big IF) you unscrew one nut per caliper, then remove a washer and the park brake cable lever. The threaded post spins instead of the caliper piston. Simple 'n' easy. WAY more easy than trying to screw the piston back in.

 

4. NEVER NEVER NEVER push used brake fluid back into the ABS valves and the master cylinder. When you compress the pistons back into the calipers, OPEN THE BLEEDER SCREWS, and I put a clamp on the rubber brake hoses to pinch them shut. This assures that the most contaminated fluid--the stuff in the calipers--drains OUT of the hydraulic system instead of ruining the ABS.

 

5. When you're done and ready to bleed the brakes, bleed them until the fluid coming out of the bleeder screws looks as fresh and clean as the stuff you're pouring into the master cylinder reservoir.

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