gp90se Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 98 buick park ave 71xxx miles. Last year it sputtered and died while driving. Towed it home and let it sit. No spark plenty of fuel. Just replaced the cps and cleaned the spark plugs. I have fuel, spark, air and compression. Cranks great and sounds like its backfiring out the intake while cranking. Did the ecu go bad, timing chain jump, blow a special fuse? I'm all ears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 could be the other CPS. there is a crank sensor and cam sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Any way to check the cam sensor, what would I be looking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alec_b Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Without a lab scope? Not really. Swap for a known good one maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEN1Z34 Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 What was your fuel presure reading? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass350 Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 (edited) ??? What are the scan codes? You replaced a sensor without reading the scan codes? Sorry, that's 110% wrong way to go about fixing an EFI system. Buy a code scanner, they are cheap. IMHO, working on an EFI engine without a code makes as much sense ask getting puke drunk, putting on a blindfold, and working on a running engine. Consider the price of a CPS (which it seems like you didn't need) verses the price of a scanner. Plus, an OBD-II scanner will work on many cars and for a very long time. Here, $30 and free shipping: U380 OBDII Check Engine Auto Scanner Trouble Code Reader http://www.amazon.com/OBDII-Engine-Scanner-Trouble-Reader/dp/B000LEPT5G Or, Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN OBD-II Scan Tool http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LHVOVK/ $21.64 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Or, any of the the tons of cheap OBD-II scanners at Walmart, Autozone, etc If you want a very nice OBD-II scanner, the the OTC3797 is a good one. I have one, along with a number of other scanners. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-3797-Nemisys-Domestic-Tester/dp/B000NBWCBQ You can often get them used on ebay for much cheaper. That's where I got mine. A friend did find a new scanner in the ~$500 range that seems even better. I forget the model number. I don't need it, my OTC3797 has been great. I also have an USB OBD-II/CAN scanner. But, that requires a netbook/laptop. I needed that to reset steering wheel angle sensor. A scanner will show a DTC for bad cam sensor, crank sensor, etc. That's super basic and very simple for an OBD-II system. Plus, it's required by Federal Law, like many other required tests. Good Luck! Edited October 10, 2011 by Cutlass350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEN1Z34 Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 ???What are the scan codes? You replaced a sensor without reading the scan codes? Sorry, that's 110% wrong way to go about fixing an EFI system. Buy a code scanner, they are cheap. IMHO, working on an EFI engine without a code makes as much sense ask getting puke drunk, putting on a blindfold, and working on a running engine. Consider the price of a CPS (which it seems like you didn't need) verses the price of a scanner. Plus, an OBD-II scanner will work on many cars and for a very long time. Here, $30 and free shipping: U380 OBDII Check Engine Auto Scanner Trouble Code Reader http://www.amazon.com/OBDII-Engine-Scanner-Trouble-Reader/dp/B000LEPT5G Or, Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN OBD-II Scan Tool http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LHVOVK/ $21.64 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Or, any of the the tons of cheap OBD-II scanners at Walmart, Autozone, etc +1 I also agree with this.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 For the record, the cps sensor did fix the spark issue, which I believe caused the initial break down. I've sold off most of my tools, I only play backyard mechanic when absolutely pushed into it. With that said, I'm borrowing a code scanner to see if there are any stored codes, I was looking to see if theres any known issues I should be looking for It does not try to fire with starting fluid in the intake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 But you do have spark on all 6 cylinders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 And what if there are no stored codes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 So the tech two does not see any problems, cranking at 150-188 rpm, injector pulse, tps sensor everything looks good. We swapped the control module out for a known good one, ran a couple extra grounds, still won't fire. It does burp out of the intake, but again a 70k engine with no slop in the chain, I don't know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 what happens with these engines (after a boat load of digging) the intake gaskets go bad from the dexcool, followed by the upper plastic intake cracking by the egr valve, allowing coolant into cyl number one. Dorman has a redesigned intake to cure the problem. This will be next weeks project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Dexcool was NOT the cause of gasket failure, shitty gaskets were the cause of gasket failure. That said, may not hurt to do said projects, if for nothing more than a once over of all the connectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfetterer Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 I would try swapping out the ignition module underneath the coil packs and see if that fixes it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevelle3504speed Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 How do the plugs look? It could just be badly flooded from trying to crank it with no spark. I've had cars flood so badly I've had to replace the plugs to get them to crank up. The '04 through 06ish 2.5 Altimas are especially bad about that. May be worth a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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