where to buy/obtain gen1 lateral links?

[White93z34]

Noticed that my TGPs front lateral links are both bent. should probably replace those before I bother going for an alignment. Problem is I can't find them for sale anywhere.

 

Failing that what are some alternative solutions? IIRC gen2 stuff is too long to be direct bolt in.

[white4d96]

I found them on shopgmparts back when I was looking for them. They list them for $67.65 apiece.

 

When I needed them though I got mine from the junkyard for like $80, however the bushings in them were totally shot.

[jman093]

I would still go with 2G ones. Yes, they are longer and will push the bottom of the wheel out. On mine this is advantageous since I autoX. My rear tires stay a lot flatter than the fronts in cornering with the extra negative camber. If you wanted to keep the tires tucked inside more and have less negative camber you could always get 2 sets of the rear adjustable link and just adjust them to stock 1G length. Plus they are tubular so they are stronger and won't bend again and there will be more adjustability for alignments.

[GOT2B GM]

The only concern with 2nd gen links is with the monoleaf and that the knuckles may be pushed out too far.

[intern8tion9l]

so is there an alignment issue when using the gen2?

[Venom]

so is there an alignment issue when using the gen2?

Not if you get an alignment after installing them.

[BXX]

Gen 2 rear arms REQUIRE rear coilovers:thumbsup:

 

And of course installing them effects the alignment. Any suspension parts that is removed and replaced will require the alignment to be checked and adjusted.

[intern8tion9l]

well with the talk of pushing the bottom out, i was wondering if that resulted in a camber issue

[BXX]

well with the talk of pushing the bottom out, i was wondering if that resulted in a camber issue

 

No, reason being is you will have coilovers (aka KYB struts) which have the mounting hole already slotted and camber can easily be adjusted and brought into spec.

[jman093]

I don't see why Gen 2's wouldn't work if you grabbed two sets of adjustable ones and just adjusted them to gen 1 length. Stronger and you'd still have quick and easy toe and camber change.

[intern8tion9l]

if i got my hands on some gen2, i'd def part with my current gen1. fresh por15/paint and brand new bushings all around with 300 miles on them. just sayin

[BXX]

I don't see why Gen 2's wouldn't work if you grabbed two sets of adjustable ones and just adjusted them to gen 1 length. Stronger and you'd still have quick and easy toe and camber change.

 

Because they won't adjust that far down. I've checked already with a new set of Gen 2 arms and a set of Gen 1 arms off my TGP.

[White93z34]

I was really hoping that I could just buy a set and go about my day with this... damn.

[BXX]

I was really hoping that I could just buy a set and go about my day with this... damn.

 

 

Lemme see if i have a full set of unbent Gen 1s. I think only 2 were salvagable off my TGP.

[White93z34]

hmm just like my tgps rear arms! not looking forward to dropping the rear subframe to change those.

[BXX]

hmm just like my tgps rear arms! not looking forward to dropping the rear subframe to change those.

 

Dropping the subframe is quite easy actually, just have to watch out for the brake line which is no biggy, if it's weak, it should prolly be changed anyway.

 

I think I only have one of each arms (front and rear mount). I gotta clean the garage this week, so if I dig up another front arm, I will let you know.

[White93z34]

ah almost forgot about that brake line... yeah it seems easy enough once the rear leaf is out.

[White93z34]

So my TGP needs new monoleaf pads. Which means I'll be pulling the spring to do it. So I may as well change these out.

 

I can buy new gen2 adjustable links for $24 each. Even if I could easily buy new gen1 arms its roughly 4x the cost per. Anyone know of a Energy suspension part number that fits gen2 lateral links? no big deal either way.

 

can anyone offer insight in how far I'll have to cut down the front ones to make it all work? will I need new hardware? Will original hardware work?

[jman093]

So my TGP needs new monoleaf pads. Which means I'll be pulling the spring to do it. So I may as well change these out.

 

I can buy new gen2 adjustable links for $24 each. Even if I could easily buy new gen1 arms its roughly 4x the cost per. Anyone know of a Energy suspension part number that fits gen2 lateral links? no big deal either way.

 

can anyone offer insight in how far I'll have to cut down the front ones to make it all work? will I need new hardware? Will original hardware work?

 

Are you sure you have to remove the spring to change those pads? I know I changed them on my brother's 96 GP SE with the spring on. I ask this because if you are wanting an alternative to dropping the subframe, you could install the pads with the spring on and lower the fuel tank down enough to access that inner bolt on the front lateral link. I'm not really sure if one way is easier than another. Just make sure when you are putting the new lateral links on you reinstall that inner bolt on the front link in the opposite direction that what GM did at the factory. That way if you ever need to remove lateral links again you won't need to drop the subframe or fuel tank.

 

The hardware is all the same, I'm not sure about ES bushings. I kept mine with factory rubber as I worry about poly binding.

 

I'm not sure what you mean about cutting. You said you're buying adjustables for $24. Are you buying all four adjustable or are you 2 of each and cutting and rewelding the non-adjustables to gen 1 length? I don't know how much you'll need to cut on non-adjustable ones. I think gen2's are about 1.5" longer, but you'll just want to compare to your front one when it's out to be exact. I hope your plan is to get all 4 adjustables. You won't have to cut, you can just adjust to where ever you need, and you'll be able to adjust camber in the rear since GM left us without a real way to do that. Better handling FTW.

[White93z34]

I'm pulling the leaf largely as I want to glue new rubber ends on easily, and I have the leaf compressor so its not really difficult to compress the spring at all. I'll probably shove some of the monoleaf pucks in there as a stop gap solution.

 

I'll be buying 4 of the adjustable links. I'm TOLD that the front ones cannot be adjusted down far enough, not sure how true that is. seems easy enough that I could cut them and buy a die of the proper size and thread pitch and just thread them down further so they can do what I need them to.

 

I also THINK I can pull the front links with the spring moved and not have to drop the rear sub frame so that would be nice.

[jman093]

I'm pulling the leaf largely as I want to glue new rubber ends on easily, and I have the leaf compressor so its not really difficult to compress the spring at all. I'll probably shove some of the monoleaf pucks in there as a stop gap solution.

 

I'll be buying 4 of the adjustable links. I'm TOLD that the front ones cannot be adjusted down far enough, not sure how true that is. seems easy enough that I could cut them and buy a die of the proper size and thread pitch and just thread them down further so they can do what I need them to.

 

I also THINK I can pull the front links with the spring moved and not have to drop the rear sub frame so that would be nice.

 

I see. I know Bob thinks there isn't enough adjustment and he may be right, but I can't possibly see how there isn't. IIRC, you can get a couple inches per side with what's there. 2nd gens do not have a 4-5 wider track width. It's a couple inches at best, and even if they are just a tad longer it won't be enough to make a difference on where the spring is riding. Our cars need more camber in the rear anyways. Regardless, be sure to check whether the gen 2's can be adjusted down the same length while they are both out and post the results. I never bothered since it was irrelevant to my application.

 

And I still think you will have to drop the subframe. It isn't the leaf that causes the problem (my GTP had no leaf, it was on coilovers). The problem on mine was that GM put the inner bolt on the front links in from the front, so it hit the gas tank before it came out. Either the gas tank or the subframe had to be lowered. I used it as an opportunity to remove the subframe, clean it up and hit it with some black rustoleum. Going to back together with the gen 2's, those bolts were reinstalled from the rear so they could always be easily removed in the future.

Edited September 21, 2012 by jman093

[White93z34]

Thanks for the information, I think I'll pickup the 4 adjustable links, then once I can spec the thread size and thread pitch I'll buy a die of the proper size and tap the rod down further and cut off what is necessary to get a full range of adjustment. Seems easy enough.... even If I gotta drop the rear subframe its only like 4 bolts and without the spring in it should be cake.

 

I think I'll make a write up from it since our stupid stamped lateral links are not available (or at least not without paying $60-$90 each from the dealer) , and this is a rather cheap way to get a fully adjustable rear suspension.

Edited September 22, 2012 by White93z34

[RobertISaar]

please do... i'm not sure if it will apply to the MC, but the lateral links in it are essentially tissue paper at this point and i didn't want to deal with it again.

[White93z34]

Just purchased 4 new adjustable links. So that would be 4 rear gen2 links. Anyone happen to have bolt to bolt measurements of how long gen1 lateral links are?

[White93z34]

Just got the 4 of em in today, desperately NEED measurements of a set of gen1 stock links.

 

Edit: does 22.25 in sound right for the front links?

Edited September 28, 2012 by White93z34