BrianK82 Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Started to change my spark plugs on my 94' Cutlass 3.4 today, the front ones appeared to be original, and the gap was an eye opening .075, yet she still runs well. Decided to dive into the backs, only to find that someone at one time or maybe just old age has destroyed the pull handles on the back three plugs. Two are broken, one is missing. I decided to stop before I opened Pandoras box by pulling on the wires and having the wire pull out and leave the boot in the hole. I am going to have to pull the plenum to get at these appropriately. Any tips on pulling the plenum? How bad is it to route the wires from the coils back to those rear plugs? I think the PS pump will have to come out and then use some wire to pull them through? Any tips are appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Plenum is easy. Remove the bolts that you see. On the back, there should be a large vacuum hose and clamp. Slide the clamp down the hose, pull the hose off the plenum. Remove throttle cables from the throttle body, and I think the coolant hoses there as well. Unplug connectors for IAC, TPS, and any other devices. Then lift up on the plenum. Someone correct me if I am missing anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 (edited) ^ That pretty much covers the plenum removal, you will have to drain a portion of the coolant to allow removal of the short heated throttle body passage hose. (mounted vertical under the plenum next to the throttle body). The routing of the plug wires isn't really difficult, it just takes a little more time. You pass the rear bank wires under the forward bank plastic cover on the front end of the cam gallery (remove the cover) and then they are routed inside split loom to the rear plug terminals. If your new set are original replacement Delco wires the front bank are red and the rear bank are gray. Edited September 22, 2011 by 55trucker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianK82 Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 I got a lil' into it before I noticed what was going on with the rear cylinders. I ran into trouble below the throttle body. There is a quick disconnect heater hose fitting and it blocks access to a bolt which is retaining the fuel lines into a bracket bolted to the throttle body cable bracket. It seems like all of the above will have to be removed to get the plenum off, or is there a faster way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Remove the plenum. Tilt engine forward. TONS of room to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 (edited) The heater pipe shouldn't cause any sort of headache when removing that short bolt that retains the fuel line support. If memory serves the bolt head is a 10mm and can be got at with a speed wrench. The LQ1's don't tilt as the trans mount doesn't allow it, if the powertrain COULD tilt that would life so much easier. Edited September 22, 2011 by 55trucker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 This engine don't really tilt that much. You can get a little out of it. Take off your upper torque mount that will give you the ability to tilt the engine a bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 Your mention of color confused me... I've got OEM AC/Delco wires on my LQ1, and a brand-new spare set, and all 6 are grey! ^ That pretty much covers the plenum removal, you will have to drain a portion of the coolant to allow removal of the short heated throttle body passage hose. (mounted vertical under the plenum next to the throttle body). The routing of the plug wires isn't really difficult, it just takes a little more time. You pass the rear bank wires under the forward bank plastic cover on the front end of the cam gallery (remove the cover) and then they are routed inside split loom to the rear plug terminals. If your new set are original replacement Delco wires the front bank are red and the rear bank are gray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 I also have a set of original AC delco wires and they are All grey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 From the factory OEM wires were front red, rear grey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 Somewhat odd & very disappointing. Mind you, it's been a few years since my last replacement. The purpose of the two colors was/is to aid in where they each go, not just cosmetic. I suppose that even Delco has cut corners where cost is involved. I think that Prestolite still makes a set for the pre 96 engines in the red/grey. I personally like the red wires up front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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