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Brake bleeding, how involved on ABS brakes?


Red Nightmare

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Did a bit of research on forum but didn't find much

Web search came up with several things, so I will get the straight talk here...

 

Alright, on the 94 GTP, the brakes are "Spongy" as some would say. when it hits what feels like bottom (but isn't) there is not enough braking power to stop the car if I gun the throttle. Quick stops are out of the question if I am going faster than say 40'ish. Normal stops OK but if I have to really stop fast, it just doesn't.

 

A few weeks ago, I put in new pads on all 4 wheels. I did not disconnect any hydraulic lines.

 

So now I want to bleed the brakes and see if that firms the pedal.

I know on non-ABS it is simple to do. But some sources I have read talk about some kind of special scan tool and all.

 

 

Also if I did the haynes procedure or whatever, is there a chance of the ABS system becoming dis-calibrated or how to avoid that?

I don't know if the ABS system somehow interferes with the hydraulic pressure or whatever which is why I wonder about it becoming dis-calibrated like if the bleeding procedure was not correct?

 

Final notes - ABS and brake lights are not on. They come on during the "dash light test" but turn off soon after.

 

thank you for any help on this.

Edited by Red Nightmare
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well i know with the pmIII at least, front brakes are bled like a normal non-abs system. for the rears, the pedal has to be held halfway down so the pump turns on, while at the same time opening a bleeder on one rear caliper at a time

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can you explain? is it like bleeding a non-abs car? pump, pump, pump hold.....open bleeder, close bleeder pump pump pump.... or something more involved? I was going to ask this same question!!

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There is a major difference in brake feel between ABS IV cars and non ABS cars. even my good running ABS cars have a spongy pedal feel, but have excellent braking.

 

If it is the case that you do need to bleed(and it couldn't hurt, unless you break a bleeder), you can do the typical push push hold, but you have SIX bleeders to worry about. two on the master and one at each wheel. master is 8mm in my observation, and the rest are usually 10mm, though sometimes I have seen rears that are 8mm.

 

good luck!

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can you explain? is it like bleeding a non-abs car? pump, pump, pump hold.....open bleeder, close bleeder pump pump pump.... or something more involved? I was going to ask this same question!!

I just gravity bleed my Luminas...and most everything else, IF (big IF) I've opened the hydraulic system at or near the wheel cylinders.

 

If I've opened the hydraulic system at or near the master cylinder, I pressure bleed.

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I guess I shall tackle it than as said.

Not sure where I got the idea about the ABS discalibrating but apparently it is not an issue.

Though about taking it to a shop to let them dick with it but I already know they would say I need the whole brake system replaced and it is gonna cost $1,000 or something.

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Well bleeding them seemed to help a bit. Seem just as spongy but seems to stop a little better. I gravity-bled out all the old fluid and of course put clean in.

What the brakes do is they are spongy until it hits a point then they are solid and CAN be pushed more but with a lot of effort.

Not sure if I am expecting too much of these brakes. I have driven some vehicles where you hit the brakes quick and the car just comes to this instant screeching halt, where mine does not.

What kind of pads do I have you might ask? Honestly, I don't know what they are as I found them at a junk yard. Would the quality of the pads effect stopping power much? (yeah I know retarded question)

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