Jprice90 Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 car never ran low on antifreeze, until this morning i got to work and the low coolant light came on, there were never any drips under my car..got home, and theres a little stream of antifreeze coming from behind the waterpump pulley, so im guessing it's about done? pretty sure it's original today just isnt a good day, had to fork a few hundred for a fine, and now my wp is toast anybody know where i can get a diagram of how to get the waterpump out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 It's easy as pie bud, and the duralast water pump at auto zone was $20. I just put one on MonteCarloDude's 3100 last week. There are 4 bolts on the outside of the water pump pulley. Try and get those loose with a 10mm IIRC. (the most difficult part). Once you get those loose, remove the serpentine belt. The pulley will come off, and underneath is the water pump. The bolts are 8mm I believe, and there are 5 of them. Get those loose, and the water pump should pop right out with a little pry from a screwdriver. Scrape all the old gasket off the engine, and put the new water pump in. Torque it down nice and snug in a star pattern. Put the pulley back on (use a wrench to pry against the bolts you're not tightening so you can snug the pulley bolts up). Put serpentine belt back on. I'll post the bleeding process in a second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jprice90 Posted September 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 SWEEEET, thanksss..my mechanic said a 3 HR job..LOL yup $20 is always goood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 3 Hours? It almost takes as much time to remove and reinstall the serpentine belt as it does to replace the pump. SWEEEET, thanksss..my mechanic said a 3 HR job..LOL yup $20 is always goood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 (edited) The bleeding process can be done one of a few ways, and is pretty important because the 3100 likes to hold air bubbles in the worst possible places, causing hot spots in the heads. This process has worked for me and MCDude, so I'll post it up. If anyone can add revisions, please do so. Open both the bleeder screws. One is located next to the water pump, and one is located near where the top rad hose goes to the thermostat housing. (Be careful, as these apparently get brittle over time, and like to twist off and/or strip). A little PB Blaster beforehand might help them loose. Add coolant (50/50 mix) to the radiator neck until it's full. You might get gurgling, and bubbles, just keep adding until it's full. You might get some leaking out of the left side bleeder. That's fine, it's going to happen. This is where I might catch some hell, but it's worked for me in the past. Mike (MCDude) and I "burp" the radiator by squeezing the rad hoses (both top and bottom) and letting them go a bunch of times. You'll get more bubbles and gurgling, add coolant as the level drops. Keep burping it until you don't get any more bubbles, and the coolant is at the top of the radiator neck. It's useful to have someone watch the temperature gauge for this next part, because if it doesn't go correctly, it's real easy to sit there and overheat the engine. Ask me how I know. If it starts getting hot, shut it off, let it cool, and start over. Leaving the bleeder valves open, start the car, or have someone start it. The coolant level in the radiator will drop as the new pump fills the heads back up, add coolant until you get a steady stream of coolant coming from both bleeder valves. The one on the left will get a solid stream first. Once that happens, go ahead and close it. Adding coolant as it drops from the radiator neck, watch the right side bleeder. You likely won't get a solid stream out of it until the thermostat opens. Once you get a solid stream of coolant coming out of it, close the right side bleeder, top off the rad, and put the rad cap on. Shut the engine off, and top off the coolant overflow tank to the "Warm" Line. You're done! Wait until the engine is cool, and spray the engine off where any coolant might have gotten. As I'm sure you know, that shit stinks when it's cooking off the engine, and stinks for weeks. Over the next couple of trips, check your coolant overflow, and the radiator neck (when the engine and radiator are cool) and top off as needed! Edited September 12, 2011 by tornado_735 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jprice90 Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 yeahhh he's a bozo..my pops friend put it in in like 45 mins. new pump, new belt..oh and he said i might need a new tensioner, he said the spring didnt feel that great or something, so i gotta pick one of those up..put everything in, he bled it..let it run for a whileee, temp went to a little over half, went back down, took it around the block, all was good..drove home, no problems at all..i love these engines..i had so many headaches with my last car..thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oilpatch197 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Maybe the mechanic was quoting you on the motor design that has that stupid motor mount bracket over the water pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jprice90 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 he knows what engine i have lol. he just turned into an asshole after his business picked up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 yeahhh he's a bozo..my pops friend put it in in like 45 mins. new pump, new belt..oh and he said i might need a new tensioner, he said the spring didnt feel that great or something, so i gotta pick one of those up..put everything in, he bled it..let it run for a whileee, temp went to a little over half, went back down, took it around the block, all was good..drove home, no problems at all..i love these engines..i had so many headaches with my last car..thanks guys New Tensioner would take 15 minutes, tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.