94 olds vert Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 (edited) I think there was a write up done on how to install these. I wasn't able to find it. I don't think there was any pictures with that one either. Jack up the rear end. Get out your jack stands. You will need two 1" sockets. Your favorite breaker bar and your favorite "liquid wrench". I sprayed some W-40 on the night before. They didn't look rusty. So I just used w-40. The reason I used two sockets was so I could put one on each end of the bolt so it wouldn't spin on me. I find taking off the Bottom TA mount helpful. Just to get it out of the way. You don't have to. If you have one of those stupid shield around your rotors. There are 2 8mm bolts pointing towards the front of the car. I took that off to get more room. Get a block of wood and a jack. Place it under the mono-leaf close as you can get it to the knuckle. That is the reason I removed the bottom TA bolt. Jack it up slowly until you get enough room to get access to your old spring pad. That is if there is still one there. Use a screw driver to get it out. And never put your fingers under the mono leaf pad. Even though it might be tempting. Don't do it. New spring pad. After you get the old one out. It should look like this. Try to clean off the bottom of the mono leaf and top of the knuckle best you can. Then just slide in the new spring pad. It should go in pretty easily. If not gently tap it with a hammer. Then remove your jack after you get the spring pad seated properly. Make sure to lower it slowly. Then put everything back together. Smooth side up and ridges down. (Ohia) Enjoy your w-body that doesn't moan, creak or, clunk going over bumps. Just be careful doing this. What I mean is don't put your fingers under the mono leaf pad. Edited September 13, 2011 by 94 olds vert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joecutlass Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Are those in upside down? I installed mine and the ridges on the sides, not the three in the center, from what i was informed by a gm tech, is there to keep the block from sliding around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuminaPower92 Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Are those in upside down? I installed mine and the ridges on the sides, not the three in the center, from what i was informed by a gm tech, is there to keep the block from sliding around. Yes they are upside down. It should be installed with the two sides clipped down on either side of the knuckle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Fail. You installed them upside down. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/21004-Monoleaf-Pad-Thread-(Part-Number-and-HowTo-Inside)/page2 There is a picture in that thread I created 359689483 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 yeah..... the ridges face downwards to keep the pad from sliding out of the knuckle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Yeah I noticed that lol. I looked at the 'vert after I did it and realized I did it wrong. I dunno I thought for some reason the mono leaf went into the ridge on the pad. But that is wrong. Oops. No harm done. Already turned them the right way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90V6RedHotLuminaEuro Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 Moog Problem Solver Bulletin 25473 Moog Rear Transverse Spring Isolator Pads GM Front-Drive W-Body 1988-1997 http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25473_K6544_En.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 you don't 'need' two 1" wrenches. the bolts are splined and will not spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 you don't 'need' two 1" wrenches. the bolts are splined and will not spin. They're 23mm for the record. Unless the SAE and Metric are exactly the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 My bolts spun when I only turned one side with the wrench. Maybe cause they were rusted together and I had to brake the nut loose from the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 My bolts spun when I only turned one side with the wrench. Maybe cause they were rusted together and I had to brake the nut loose from the bolt. Mine did as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 The proper SAE size for the trailing arm to knuckle bolts is 15/16" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 hmm...1" worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 it would've worked but 15/16 would've worked better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted September 25, 2011 Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 Probably the rust made up the difference... hmm...1" worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted September 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 LOL probably. Damn MI cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
base93lumina Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 i know this is an old thread, but im having problems getting the original rubber pad to let loose from the spring. Is there a better way rather than using a screwdriver as a chisel and hammer to get it out of there. I also find that my knuckle likes to follow the spring as i jack it up out of the way. Is there a way to hold it down (the knuckle i mean)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virtuetovice Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 If your knuckle is following, it's because your wood is too wide[insert joke here ] Make sure the piece of wood is ONLY pushing up the spring and not the arms. If it still follows, it doesn't have much pressure on it and you can easily push it down with your foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 (edited) i know this is an old thread, but im having problems getting the original rubber pad to let loose from the spring. Is there a better way rather than using a screwdriver as a chisel and hammer to get it out of there. I wouldn't use a screwdriver; a chisel would be better--wider, sharper tip. Be careful, do not nick the spring. I also find that my knuckle likes to follow the spring as i jack it up out of the way. Is there a way to hold it down (the knuckle i mean)? Build/buy a spring compressor instead of jacking from the floor. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/21004-Monoleaf-Pad-Thread-%28Part-Number-and-HowTo-Inside%29/page2 Post 58 Edited February 11, 2012 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
base93lumina Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 ^^^This is prolly what i will wind up doing. While the block of wood i was using was just as wide as the spring, i think i will just make use of my dads welder and make one of these. Sadly, its prolly the only time it will get used in the next 20 years lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90V6RedHotLuminaEuro Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 (edited) I wouldn't use a screwdriver; a chisel would be better--wider, sharper tip. Be careful, do not nick the spring. Build/buy a spring compressor instead of jacking from the floor. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/21004-Monoleaf-Pad-Thread-(Part-Number-and-HowTo-Inside)/page2 Post 58 That's a neat spring compressor you made there! I wish I had a shop... with a torch/welder... and of course knew how to use it... I did the jack thing myself. I used a screwdriver, and a really nice heavy duty Stanley scraper... thicker than average somewhat longer chrome blade and had a metal tab on the end of the handle so you could wack it with a hammer. Sure, it still took some work but I found it to work better than the various sized screw drivers I had. It really got between the rubber and metal pretty good. I installed the Moog Spring Helpers along with the pads. Two Great Kits. I posted my project in another post around here somewhere. I've had a couple of mechanics and others provide positive comments and feedback on the Helpers. Edited February 12, 2012 by 90V6RedHotLuminaEuro Add Photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 horry crap! I haven't seen those yet! those are monoleaf helpers? do they work good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 If your rear end is sitting low, and your current pads are getting worn out the MOOG pads are a good way to go. I've had them on my 'vert for 2+ years now and I love them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 (edited) I am talking about the blue things. I already got the other white plastic pads, but I could use the bump stops with my flex-a-form or whatever monoleaf drop spring possibly to make it more tough. or it may not fit because its a drop. but that would possibly shave some weight (instead of using birchmount steel springs which are good but heavy as hell) and be able to carry a load in the trunk without snapping the spring. or carrying 4 people in the car which can make it sag pretty good too. Edited February 12, 2012 by Garrett Powered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90V6RedHotLuminaEuro Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 (edited) horry crap! I haven't seen those yet! those are monoleaf helpers? do they work good? Ha! Yep! They work Great ...and relatively easy to install. Fortunately I had the help of an antique electric impact wrench to make the job a little easier. Here's a link to the thread with the whole story, including where I got them, part numbers, Cost, pics of the kits and instructions... everything: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/52679-Moog-K6000-Leaf-Spring-Helpers-and-Moog-K6544-Leaf-Spring-Pads Edited February 12, 2012 by 90V6RedHotLuminaEuro add pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.