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Keyless entry module locations


chevelle3504speed

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Hey guys,

Can you tell the where the keyless entry module is located on a '95 Regal Coupe? It's not under the right side of the package tray like it is on my GP. Is the module in the same location on the '95 Monte Carlo or Lumina?

 

Thanks.

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The Regal may not have RKE then.

 

I got my RKE module from a 1995 Regal coupe and it was under the package tray. It was residing in my 1991 S10 Blazer and now it's going in one of my trucks - whichever one gets on the road first....

 

And yes, same location on MC and Lumi.

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Thanks for the help. I managed to find 2 modules in the junkyard. Neither one of them work, however. They won't even go into program mode. I am just going to let it go for now. I was having problems with my power door locks, but one of the modules I got from the yard fixed that problem. Thanks again guys.

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Don't give up so easily. This is a really easy fix!

 

http://www.w-body.com/content.php/201-Repair-for-non-functional-keyless-entry

 

I just solder mine and it works so much better now. If you need to add some solder to some of the joints. They might need some. I'm not very good at soldering. Actually was my first time. It went really easy.

 

It most likely needs to be soldered if it won't enter program mode. If it does enter program mode and still nothing when you press the key fobs. Make sure the batteries are good.

 

If still nothing. Check the solders on the receiver chip in the box. Look at them all carefully and make sure none of the solder joints are cracked.

 

Don't put it back under the rear package try. I mounted mine upside down in the trunk. Works really good there. Now I have easy access to it.

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Thanks for the link. I will give that a try at some point. I opened up one of the modules I got from the bone yard, and man those solder joints look close together! I have never soldered before. A little nervous about trying it!

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Just make sure you have a pencil tip soldering tool. I didn't I had this huge old thing. I was still able to do it my first time around.

 

I was scared to try it at first too, but after I did it. It wasn't that bad. I felt so confident I opened up the one in my other car and fixed that one too.

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If it doesn't work now, you are not going to damage it worse by trying to fix it. So why not try?

Also, yeah as said - mount it back into a place where you will have easy access next time it fails cause those RKE modules are well known to screw up, hince the countless threads about them. I know it is tempting to "put things in the right place" but why create more future work?

 

Also if you want to practice soldering before the actual job, just find a circuit board out of something you don't mind ruining just to get a feel for soldering.

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Hey guys,

Thanks for the support. I've been looking up information about soldering, and I have a couple questions. Do I need a solder wick to soak up the original solder, or do I need to just melt the original solder and add more solder to the joint? Those solder joints sure are close together. Looks like it would be hard not to run the solder between 2 joints.

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If you rear the write up here you need to remove the rubber glue substance that is on top of the board. I used some electrical cleaner and a tooth brush.

 

After that I bought some really thin solder wire. Then I heated up all the of the joints. If it looked like they need more. I added more.

 

They are really close together. I used a small screw driver to place in between the solder joints so that the one I was soldering didn't get on the next joint.

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Hey guys,

Thanks for the support. I've been looking up information about soldering, and I have a couple questions. Do I need a solder wick to soak up the original solder, or do I need to just melt the original solder and add more solder to the joint? Those solder joints sure are close together. Looks like it would be hard not to run the solder between 2 joints.

 

You won't need solder wick. What you are doing is essentially reflowing the solder through the contact points. As for running between two joints, it won't happen as long as you don't go crazy with adding the extra solder and use flux. You should only need a quick touch on each contact.

 

A good pencil tip iron 20 watts or higher, solder flux and small gauge 60/40 or similar solder[there are several grades available] will be all you need, try to find the smallest gauge you can. The rosin will help keep the solder where it needs to be and nowhere else. If you can snag some kind of electronic part from a junk yard and practice on it.

Edited by virtuetovice
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