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Advanced VATS question


MonteCarloChick

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This is Nichole's boyfriend.

 

She's had a ton of VATS related no starts with her Monte, so we bypassed the ignition cylinder about 2 years ago with a resistor pack. This reduced the number of no starts, but did not eliminate the problem. She still has an occasional issue, mostly just before leaving for work, and this is getting to be a serious pain in the ass.

 

I spent all day looking for info online and can't find anything promising. A few sits want $100-$200 for a bypass module, but none are specific on what it does. Most of the rest of the results are F-body and Corvette owners looking to bypass their VATS using the resistor method, and a small handful want to eliminate the module completely.

 

The only info I've found regarding doing this requires HPTuner, and I'm more interested in a smash and splice method. Remove the unit. Re-route wiring, etc...

 

Please help. I've "fixed" this about 10 times now, figuring it was a loose connector, etc... and we have an issue come up every week or so.

 

Thanks in advance.

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has it been verified that the security light is on when the car will not start???

 

with the car running unplug the resistor completely. once the security light sticks and stays on the system will be in failsafe mode. If you turn the car off with the light on it will never need to see a resistor again if you choose not to hook it back up. Run it unhooked with the light on for the duration (aka until the issue is solved for sure)... If the no start issue continues... then you have a different issue...

Edited by Crazy K
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Heres what you do:

 

Start car.

Eliminate the resistor while the car is running.

Security light will come on and stay on.

Shut off car.

Pull security light bulb.

Done.

 

This puts the VATS system in to a permanently disabled mode.

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Security light is OFF when there is a no start.

 

Security light is functional, via cluster test on start up.

 

Security light has been on at times AND the car able to start.

 

Security light has gone off, and the car STILL able to start.

 

From what she tells me EVERY time she has had a no start, the security light is NEVER on.

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I had this happen before and it was a bad connection to the starter solenoid and the starter. Cleaned them up and tightened them down, problem solved.

 

This was just done about 3 weeks ago for a starter no-start (clicking sound) Starter is only 1 year old.

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Security light is OFF when there is a no start.

 

Security light is functional, via cluster test on start up.

 

Security light has been on at times AND the car able to start.

 

Security light has gone off, and the car STILL able to start.

 

From what she tells me EVERY time she has had a no start, the security light is NEVER on.

 

I hope you get this figured out.. It's becoming a more and more annoying issue on my Lumina as well...

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I have disabled VATS by pulling the plug as well on my old 1996 Grand Prix

 

Sometimes the security light would stay on, sometimes it would not, and I still had no-start. MonteCarloDude was with me one night when it did it.

 

I also advocate eliminating the resistor while the car is running, waiting for the security light, and then seeing what happens.

 

 

If the no start issue continues... then you have a different issue...

 

X2

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Could be Transaxle Range Switch, faulty Theft Deterrent Module, or faulty Theft Deterrent Relay.

 

Even when in bypass mode the Theft Deterrent Module has to turn on the Theft Deterrent Relay before the car will start.

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that info is very useful about the resistor. makes me think of just starting the car and cutting the wires, and voila problem solved. But what happens if the battery dies or gets disconnected?

Also check your fuses and relays in the underhood boxes as they are very prone to bad corrosion

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I used to have this issue. Bypassing systems is something i feel is anti establishment lol. I just buy and replace my Ignition Key with a new one annually, I have never had this issue since.

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that info is very useful about the resistor. makes me think of just starting the car and cutting the wires, and voila problem solved. But what happens if the battery dies or gets disconnected?

Also check your fuses and relays in the underhood boxes as they are very prone to bad corrosion

Once the system is bypassed i believe that it is saved into the cars computer somewhere, so even if the battery goes dead the security is still in a disabled mode.

 

Try starting it in neutral when there's a no-start condition

 

I was going to suggest this as well. I had to do this sometimes in the TGP. A new neutral safety switch seems to have solved the problem.

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Thanks for all the great suggestions. When she gets home, I'll be checking the aux battery post first, I'm fairly certain that's rusted. I know her under hood fuse/relay box on the driver side also has some issues with corrosion that I noticed when I pulled the ABS relay.

 

I've informed her to start the car in neutral if/when she has a no-start when she leaves work today. I'm assuming if the car starts in neutral when a no-start problem starts, that it's the neutral safety switch?

 

Buying a key every year? That really defeats the purpose of fixing a problem lol

 

Thanks again for all the help, I should have some results to post tonight on how things go.

 

I'm thinking about this neutral safety switch now, And I remember her car was in for service a year or so ago, they fixed her horn, and something else. Anyways, Her shifter used to be a real bitch to shift from park into drive, She has the console shift, not column shift, The guys at the shop did something and made her shifter easier to depress the button, but the lights for the gears stopped working at the same time when they did this.

 

I've only worked on neutral safety switches that were on the brake pedal in my older cars, is the neutral safety switch in her car, by any chance, located in the shifter console??

Edited by MonteCarloChick
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Unfortunately, the neutral safety switch is..I believe located on top of the transaxle. I could be mistaken though.

 

Also, buying a new key would not help with jack if the problem lies with the wiring leading up to the ignition switch.

 

Here are the two explanations I got when I asked, A.) Would it still be in 'fail-enable' if I pulled the battery, and B.) Why it still works after the battery is pulled:

 

because the MC went without a battery for ~6 months at a time, was in fail-enable before, and was still in it afterwards.

 

and

 

the VATS module must store it in EEPROM/Flash PROM along with the intended resistor value that it picks up when it's still fresh/new and reads/stores the value it sees via the key cylinder.
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Ok we had a no start today. She tried to start it in neutral, and it was completely dead, no response.

 

We got it started later on today, I pulled the resistor pack, and the security light came on. Right now, the two white wires that are inside the orange insulation are both cut, neither one is connected to anything. We ran the car for a few minutes, shut it off, then attempted to start it, and it fired right up, Security light is still on as well.

 

Hopefully this means the problem is solved... Thanks again for all the help and suggestions. We'll post any updates if we have any more problems in the future :)

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