Penglii Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Regarding the installation of the Dorman AC delete bracket for the 3100... are the bolt holes in the AC bracket threaded? Or just the compressor? I ask because I installed this bracket on a `89 3.1 and I had to aquire bolts & nuts to hold it in place because only the compressor was threaded so the original bolts could not be used. Now I need to install one on a `94 3100... will I again have to aquire bolts with nuts? Or will I actually be able to re-use the stock bolts this time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Regarding the installation of the Dorman AC delete bracket for the 3100... are the bolt holes in the AC bracket threaded? Or just the compressor? I ask because I installed this bracket on a `89 3.1 and I had to aquire bolts & nuts to hold it in place because only the compressor was threaded so the original bolts could not be used. Now I need to install one on a `94 3100... will I again have to aquire bolts with nuts? Or will I actually be able to re-use the stock bolts this time? When I bypassed the compressor on my 96, I can't recall whether I used the existing bolts, or whether it came with new bolts, but it just bolted straight to the block. The compressor on my 94 was designed different, but I'm pretty sure it bolted straight to the block as well. And from what I remember, there were no threads in the bracket. The bolts just pass through to the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Hmmm... that does not seem right though. On the `94, at least, the a/c compressor is bolted to a bracket that bolts to the block and holds everything away from the block (that bracket is also the dogbone mount for that side of the engine) so the compressor bolts would have no way of going right into the block. The delete pulley comes with a bunch of bolts (no nuts) that appear totally useless... but if the a/c on the 96+ 3100s is different from the 94-95 version then that probably explains it somehow. *shrugs* Not really a big deal... just gotta plan a possible trip to the hardware store into the job I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Kindof zombieing my own year old thread... but since I'm back DD'ing the 94 Sedan I'm looking into finally installing the AC delete bracket and I'm still wondering what hardware I'll realistically need to install it. Read above for more explanation. Short version is that the 94 3100 AC mounting was unique and the included hardware seems like it won't work. Not a huge deal, but if I can get this job done without having to walk to the hardware store for proper bolts and stuff in the middle of the job then it will make my life that much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 The obvious question is "Why would you delete the A/C?" If the compressor died, pull the electrical connector on the clutch. Clutch no longer engages, belt turns the pulley on the bearing. Cost = Nothing. If the bearing on the pulley died, the bearings should be fairly easy to replace, and they don't cost much. Probably about the same as the delete bracket, and you get to keep the A/C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 If the bearing on the pulley died, the bearings should be fairly easy to replace, and they don't cost much. Probably about the same as the delete bracket, and you get to keep the A/C. The bearings are shot, they make noise constantly and I have not had working AC since I got the car, the electrical connector has been disconnected for a couple years now. I have never had a car with working AC so I guess I don't appreciate it enough as a feature, my first instinct is to remove it. Can the bearing job be done with the compressor still in the engine bay? If it's that easy I will totally do that if I can learn how. Got more info? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 The bearings are shot, they make noise constantly and I have not had working AC since I got the car, the electrical connector has been disconnected for a couple years now.I have never had a car with working AC so I guess I don't appreciate it enough as a feature, my first instinct is to remove it. Can the bearing job be done with the compressor still in the engine bay? If it's that easy I will totally do that if I can learn how. Got more info? No more info, as I've never owned a 3.1. I don't know where the compressor is on them. It's pretty buried on a 3.4; either the compressor comes off or it's done through the wheel well. The service manual will have all the details, though. Call Carquest or NAPA or whoever is your favorite parts supplier, ask them for price and availability on a clutch bearing, to start with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Schurkey, compressor is essentially in the same location on the 3.4 and the 3.1/3100. Probably would be a bear to swap the bearings without removing it from the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I don't believe the service manual discusses doing the job with the compressor in the car. After some googling it looks possible, but a real PITA. I found some links that provide good instructions... but all the pics shown are of trucks or something where the compressor is up top and really easy to access, as opposed to on a W where there it's a bit harder to access. On the one hand it does not look TOO difficult, but hard to say how the limited access would complicate matters. http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=4&threadid=15161 http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=20&threadid=18627 http://www.flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/hvac/airconditioning/clutchPullyService.htm Found a random tip on one forum: are u sure bearing is causing the noise . I had a noise coming from my ac also when ac off. It was the outer plate touching the ac drive pulley when off. It barely touched but would cause noise. There are 3 spring bars that pull it away. I pried the outer plate away from drive pulley near each of the spring bars giving it about a 1/16 " now between pulley and clutch drive plate. now no more noise and ac works fine. Not sure what to use to pry with, or how much force to use, or what sort of other damage I may cause if I attempt this "fix" and screw it up somehow. I guess it might be worth it to pick up a cheap recharge can from WalMart or whatever and see if I can get the compressor to engage. If that stops the noise and buys me some time, that would be cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Found a random tip on one forum: Not sure what to use to pry with, or how much force to use, or what sort of other damage I may cause if I attempt this "fix" and screw it up somehow. The gap you're looking at affects the engagement of the magnetic clutch. Too wide--the clutch won't engage. The gap should be as narrow as possible while still allowing the clutch to disengage cleanly. There is a "special tool" that would thread into the clutch hub, then pushes or pulls the piece in order to set the gap. I guess it might be worth it to pick up a cheap recharge can from WalMart or whatever and see if I can get the compressor to engage. If that stops the noise and buys me some time, that would be cool. When the clutch is engaged, the defective bearing isn't turning, so it's quiet. As soon as the compressor disengages...you've got noise again. The bearing gets bad enough, it'll seize. At best, this instantly breaks the belt, and you lose power steering, then the engine overheats, and then the battery goes dead. At worst, it'll tear the front off the compressor and throw pieces around the engine compartment before the belt flies off. More important than whether the bearing can be installed with the A/C installed on the engine, is whether there's enough slack in the A/C hoses to allow the compressor to be unbolted from the engine and moved to a position that allows easy access to the bearing/pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Thanks for the info Shurkey, very good stuff to know even though I am rapidly losing interest in trying to repair the AC. Really good to know that when the bearing finally seized completely that it can be so catastrophic, guess I won't wait too long to solve the problem somehow. I'll take a closer look at things this weekend, however, since I already have the delete bracket the odds are I will just continue on that path and just go on a walk to the hardware store when I figure out what size bolts will do the best job holding the bracket on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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